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retret66

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About retret66

  • Rank
    Nebula

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  • Location
    Spring Valley, New York
  1. I use pixinsight and I use colormask for each color channel, this will not touch your stars, you can adjust each color channel to whatever color you like and your stars remains the same..
  2. If you dont select it manually, the issue arise when one camera briefly disconnects, this is where it mess up because the software will find the wrong one and will cause a conflict
  3. This is where you select(see arrow), do not select just from the drop down. Use ascom on all of them, dont mix with native.
  4. I use 3 asi1600mm at the same time. I use ascom on all of them. All you have to do is select ascom and pick the correct "ID", each one has a unique ID, Do not let your imaging software pick the camera for you or do not pick from the selection while in ascom, click properties and select the camera there. Heck I can use 10 ASI cameras at the same time and will not have an issue
  5. I was using the APT to indigosky bridge but indigosky can work on its own via web ui
  6. ASIair is an open source app customized for ZWO. You can use Indigosky and APT then save $100 in the process by buying RPi 3B+. This way you can use any camera and accessories that you like. http://www.indigo-astronomy.org Here is a quick demo sort of tutorial .. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bys-1w0hEnw
  7. It might be but I don't want to assume without proper instructions. Remember, I know nothing about these groups and their rules. The fact that they do not put time to manage their new membership sign in already gives me an impression of what kind of group they are. I don't want to go there and find out.
  8. I attempted to join our local group(very big group, they have major manufacturer gather on this place once a year) last year when I was starting to learn astrophotography and to work my telescope. I paid for a 1 yr family subscription via paypal so my wife and son can join in. Waited for the next instructions on what to do after becoming a paid member. after couple of weeks, no reply or an email about my membership so I sent them an email if I am getting some sort of an ID or something, waited for few weeks and nothing. I gave up and just went to youtube and forums and do it myself..After about a year when my subscription expired, I started to get their email newsletter about star parties etc, so I replied about the issue. Someone replied back saying the person that handles this membership stuff was sick blah blah blah. So, he offered me a free renewal which is nice but the fact that the times when I needed some assistance to gain knowledge was no longer needed so I said consider my membership as a donation. .
  9. it is an unusual setup because DSLR sensor usually only need LP or some sort of high contrast filter unlike the mono cameras. As I understand it the sensor to flange distance is 44mm and you only have 16mm to play with to your reducer. The EOS-M series however has only 18mm so you probably have more room to play with.
  10. If you are planning for viewing only, a good dobsonian is good, you can dismantle it and take it with you to a dark place. If you want to go with astrophotography, then that is usually the wrong question to ask, you should buy a good EQ mount before the telescope..
  11. Sharpless 132 14 Hrs Imaging time, 39.5Hrs exposure..
  12. I got spoiled on my tri-scope rig, I kinda left my GSO RC10 Truss covered for now until galaxy season but I can't really go back to single scope imaging. I completed this build about couple of months ago. Before, I mix canon lens and refractor but now they are all Stellarvue 102mm refractor with focal length of 714mm. This is a symmetrical setup so balancing is easy. Currently, it weighs 46lbs riding on Celestron CGX (55lbs payload). I am on a bortle 6/7 sky and I use to wait like 3 full nights of clear skies just to get a descent image, not to mention I can only image 45 degrees up due to surrounding trees. Telescope Info: https://www.flickr.com/photos/129168751@N04/48301682372/in/datetaken-public/ SH-132 : Imaging time: 7hrs, moon at 70% Heart Nebula : 2.5hrs Pelican Nebula: 5hrs
  13. I had the glatter with the circle holograph and sold it. The best and easy RC collimation technique that I learned was just to get a self centering from Hotech.. http://www.astro-baby.com/reviews/hotech laser collimator/hotech_laser_collimator_review.htm then a chesire. I am not a pro and only collimated once but it is spot on. BTW, I had both holograhic attachment and the grid is not the right one, use the crosshair that is available now.. YT here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ynyT-Zyfbls Here is the result after collimation. The laser was off by .25 of an inch to the center of the secondary when I started. Stars are perfect.
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