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M101 with SN2023ixf. 44min @ ISO800 F/5 Canon 600D
KevinPSJ posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
M101 Pinwheel Galaxy with Supernova SN 2023ixf. Taken on Friday night 27th May around midnight. Setup: skywatcher 150p with Canon 600d at prime focus. Mix of lights - 24x45s subs, 3x60s and 35x40s. 20 flats. EQ3-2 with RA clock drive. Dithering by hand! I experimented with most performing random dithering in RA and Dec using the slow motion control for Dec and the hand controller for RA with eyeball via finderscope. Worked out pretty well as the noise seems significantly improved compared to my previous attempts.© Kevin Hurley, 2023
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Rosette Nebula. 120 x 15s lights for 30min total exposure. ISO800 with Canon 600D modded.
KevinPSJ posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
Canon 600D and Skywatcher 150P EQ3-2 unguided. 120x15s lights (plus darks and flats). Processed with Siril and Startools.© Kevin Hurley, 2022
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- rosette nebula
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From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
Andromeda Galaxy. Canon 600D (astromodded, no filters) at primefocus of my skywatcher 150P on EQ3-2 with RA clockdrive - no guiding. 30 x 25s lights, 10 darks, 5 flats. Processed in SiriL and startools.© Kevin Hurley, 2022
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From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
M51. Skywatcher 150P with Nikon D3200 at prime focus. EQ3-2 mount with RA motor. Unguided. 10 x 30s subs - aligned and stacked with DSS into a 2min 30s exposure at ISO 800. Post-processed with Startools - binned, cropped, stretched and colour balanced. This is an updated processing of previous image posted here.-
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Leo Triplet - M65, M66 and NGC 3628. 4min 30s at ISO 800. 150mm reflector F/5.
KevinPSJ posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
M65, M66 and NGC 3628 - The Leo Triplet. Photographed on May 14. Skywatcher 150P with a Nikon D3200 at prime focus. EQ3-2 mount with RA motor drive (no guiding). 19 subs at ISO 800 - 30s each. Aligned and stacked in Deep Sky Stacker to give resulting 4min 30s exposure. Processed in Startools to crop, bin, stretch and colour balance. This was my second time around to process this image - starting to get the hang of Startools now.-
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m45_iso100_120x30s_siril_startools_manual_stretch.png
KevinPSJ posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
Reprocessed the pervious image - using Startools again but this time stretched to the point where the noise is visible in the image. The nebulosity comes out now but it's accompanied by grainy bands unfortunately. 120 lights - 30s @ ISO 100, 20 darks, 23 flats, 20 biases. I think I needed more darks.© Kevin Hurley, 2021
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- nikon d3200
- m45; pleiades
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From the album: Kevin Hurleys Planet andLunar images
First try with Canon 600D (modded) live view x5 zoom. 1500 frames at 1/250s shutterspeed and ISO 800. Stacked in autostakkert. Post-processed in startools to improve the colour. Skywatcher 150P, EQ 3-2 unguided. Barlow x2. Backyard EOS capturing live view x5. Managed to get my first image with the Great Red Spot - pleased with that but clearly lots of work still to get sharper image with more detail. I know my scope can manage more.© Kevin Hurley, 2022
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I’ve used StarTools’s for a few years now but had completely missed user jochen had written a unofficial user manual so here is the link very informative to old and new users alike worthy of sharing . https://download.startools.org/StarTools Manual V1_7.pdf @jager945
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Startools 1.8 is currently under development, Ivo is currently working a Narrowband Accent" module for duo band users , initial image Ivo has posted certainly looks interesting https://forum.startools.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2225&start=10 Ivo also working on a new deconvolution algorithm so some good things for Startools users to look forward too .
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Pac-Man Nebula 5hrs , zwo533mc L Extreme filter , processing in Startools 1.8.512 , sw200pds, First time I had tried this target slightly too big for the sensor but very happy with the out come
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So another muppet that hasn't a clue really! Sorry in advance. Not really looking for this to be a thread on how good/bad my images taken are as that's for another forum and how to use the hardware (camera, telescope, polar aligning, guiding, etc), but more how to get an image from DSLR to impressive image. Image was of NorthAmerica Nebula, NGC7000, 120x1min lights, 60x1min darks. ISO200, f/4.9 at 500mm. I've had a go with Startools and followed the suggested workflow on the website and was pleased with the output My workflow obviously needs addressing, but I've used the following edits: Import Tiff, Linear unstretched. AutoDev, selecting ROI less couple of hundred pixels on each edge Bin at 50% Crop edges similar to ROI Wipe (default settings) FilmDev => digital 97%,Gamma0.75, RGB_L 100% each, WB UseStars (dark anomolies didn't appear to change much at this point) Contrast => BASIC preset, Locality 75%, other settings left HDR => Tame preset Other panels not really touched or more that I didn't either know what I was doing or didn't like the result Here's what I came up with and nebulosity is nicely visible but not a very impressive punchy image. Affinity obviously gave something completely different, where I concentrated a little more on the nebula but I'm sure most would agree that I haven't got a clue where to start! I'd love folks to have a go at editing the raw in APP/Photoshop and summarise layer settings used - I've gone mainly with levels, curves, brightness and contrast and used about 15 adjustment layers all in all, which I think is going down the wrong route (especially as they're all the same type of adjustments!) eg my first 5 layers are Brite&Contr, 100/0 100/0 50/0 0/100 0/80, then a contrast curve and astrostretch curve (arcsinh), then more of the same. I'm really keen on getting into the edits, but there are clearly many filter/layer options I am unaware of, and how they work with the images. It might be a bit of a cop-out by asking for how others would edit this specifically, but truthfully any help is appreciated on this! Thanks so much in advance DSS Stack Output.TIF
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Reprocess using calibration frames of M27 61x180 sec ,binned 2x2 Dithered ,Flats,bias and Darks , Stacked in Astap,processed in Startools 1.8.506 , sw200pds ,Zwo533MC .
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Ngc 7822 in Cepheus 7.2 hrs 180 sec exposures , sw200pds ,zwo533mc optolong L Extreme filter, processing in Startools
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Hi, Some old data from last November; before my camera was modded. The original image was processed with DSS and GIMP, the new version with DSS and StarTools. I'm still quite noobish when processing with StarTools. but its a really fun program to learn. On this image I forgot to desaturate the sky background to remove the LP colour glow--when I do a reprocess I will do that. I'm hoping that there will be some clear skies around November-December this year to get some better quality data. The streaky noise is caused by the rather noisy CMOS and no dithering--I didn't start using APT until the New Year. The gradient is caused by the secondary being not quite centred under the camera up/down the tube. Around 1 hour of 2-3 min subs, ISO 800 EQ5 and 130P-DS, guided with PHD2 & 50mm finder/guider EOS 1000d and MPCC Mk 4 + Cheap LP filter Old: (GIMP) New: (StarTools--Still a lot of work needed) John
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Hi, A whole collection of my old and new images, which had been ruined by using GIMP. I've been processing for several hours all week, and these are the results. I'm blown away by how powerful this program is: I would recommend it to absolutely everyone! All images were taken with a 1000d on 130P-DS. All are guided except M101, which is very old data, so apologies for the coma and trailing. There was an M51 image, but it was more of a test session, with a full moon blazing down, and there were some pretty massive collimation and gradient issues. (Now resolved, I hope! ) M3--Globular Cluster. Taken last Monday. M31-Andromeda Galaxy. My 1st ever autoguided image from about September last year. Nasty gradient meant I never processed it. Until Star Tools, that is! M42--Orion Nebula. Taken last November, before my camera was modded. M45--The Pleiades. From last winter. M81 & 82--Bode's and Cigar Galaxies. My last image before modding, so not much Cigar Ha. M101--Pinwheel Galaxy. Very old data from before autoguiding and modding. Rosette Nebula. Before modding. This required my longest ever sub length, over 5 mins, to pick up the nebula heart. This one is sort of out of place, as I never processed it with StarTools, but here it is: NGC who knows what--Flame and Horsehead Nebulae. A test image after modding which turned out better than expected. Sub lengths were quite short, so not an enormous amount of nebula. Now to wait for the Eagle, Lagoon, Trifid, and a load of other nebs in the south! John
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Hi All To date I have been using DSS to stack and (dare I say it) to also perform some image processing. The final, resultant TIFF file has been further processed using such applications as PaintShop Pro, GIMP or even Windows Photo Gallery. I have read that DSS is good for stacking but, ideally, should not be used for any processing. I have downloaded a trial version of StarTools but am having a few issues getting to grips with it or getting any results that are anywhere near as good as those so far obtained with just DSS, PSP etc. I appreciate that learning how to use StarTools will involve a steep curve (I was, in a previous life, a Microsoft Office Specialist Master Trainer so have first hand experience of the difficulties of mastering new software!) but it's starting off on the right foot that is throwing me, namely; I understand that no processing should be performed in DSS, so, what stacking settings/options should be set here? Does anyone know of a definitive list of the best options to use? StarTools likes the FITS image format. Do I use the Autosave FITS file DSS can produce or do I use the "Save picture to file...." option in DSS? If the latter, which option 16/32bit, integer/rational, apply adjustments/do not apply adjustments to saved image? I have asked a lot of questions here and any advice/guidance will be greatly appreciated so thanks for taking the time to read and, if you do, replying to my post. Once I know I am on the right track with a starting image for StarTools, I feel I will have a fighting chance of learning how to use StarTools itself, however, I am sure that will be another story altogether.......
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Nice startools tutorial if it`s of use to anyone thinking of playing around with startools http://astro.ecuadors.net/processing-a-noisy-dslr-image-stack-with-startools/
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A few weeks ago I took pictures of the Horsehead Nebula using the following setup and settings: Canon 550D (Rebel T2i) Canon 75-300mm f4.0-5.6 at f8.0 50x2min exposures 10 dark frames 20 flat frames Stacked in DSS using median stack This is the .fits file straight out of DSS: It has some pretty bad coma and halos (especially toward the edges) but there is certainly data there. I perform AutoDev on this image to reveal errors and then start the Wipe Module on it. This, however, is where the problem starts. When the Wipe is performed, I get this nasty green glow (and no, it's not a Mask). I cannot seem to get rid of it at all. Some setting can change its size and shape, but it still remains. I can see the nebulosity underneath, but I cannot get to it because the glow. Does anybody have any idea what causes this and how to get rid of it? Thanks for any help you can give, Conor.
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From the album: Kevin Hurleys Planet andLunar images
Another try of the great red spot. Same setup as before - Skywatcher 150P on EQ3-2 mount with Canon 600D (modded) and barlow x2. Liveview x5 captured using backyard Eos - 5500 frames. 11 avi's joined in Pipp, then best 5% selected in autostakkert3. Sharpened and colourcorrected in startools.© Kevin Hurley, 2022
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From the album: Kevin Hurleys Planet andLunar images
, Canon 600D (modded), Skywatcher 150P, barlow x2, Liveview x5. ISO1600 @ 1/100s. Processed with pipp, autostakkert3 and startools.© Kevin Hurley, 2022
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From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
First attempt at doing dithering manually - with only a clockdrive. Seems to have gone pretty well. 60 x 30s light frames at ISO800. 10 flats. No darks. Dithered by hand. Every 5 frames or so I applied a little nudge to Dec or RA while ensuring the smudge of M33 stayed in the center of the finderscope. Quite challenging!! But less annoying that adding another 15 min of taking darks at the end of the session.© Kevin Hurley, 2022
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- m33 triangulum galaxy
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M33 Triangulum Galaxy. 60x30s subs, ISO800. Skywatcher 150P 750mm F/5.
KevinPSJ posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Kevin Hurleys Deep Space Objects
Re-processed the previous image but added 'banding removal' option in Siril. Seems to have made a significant improvement in noise reduction.© Kevin Hurley, 2022
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