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Found 6 results

  1. I have searched SGL for a tutorial incase this has been covered so forgive me if it has. I've also searched the web in general and couldn't find a full tutorial to do this, so i have collated a couple of tutorials that make it work. I have managed to get SkySafari to work with a £32 ish Raspberry Pi3 and the cable that came with my scope with a usb to serial converter - the same things you need for connecting to a PC. It allows me to control the scope using the SkySafari Plus app on my tablet or phone AND it creates a wifi hotspot on the Raspberry Pi so it doesnt have to be on a network to work. This also turns the pi into a natty mini wireless router which is handy if you travel since it gives you a private wireless network when plugged into hotel wired internet ***STANDARD DISCLAIMER*** I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT MAY OCCUR TO YOUR HARDWARE BY FOLLOWING THIS POST OR ANYTHING LINKED TO THIS POST It takes about 30 mins to do the tinkering, make sure you use the latest LITE version of raspbian. You need: Raspberry Pi 3 Portable power to it (preferably) Raspbian Lite Image file Appropriate cables to connect your Telescope to it via USB Computer connected to network Network cable to connect Raspberry Pi for initial setup A GoTo / Push To etc telescope mount compatible with SkySafari Plus / Pro A nice case for the Raspberry Pi You need to know a little about accessing the Raspberry Pi by SSH. For windows, use Win32 Disk Imager to burn the latest Raspbian LITE image to a micro sd card. Open the card on the pc (called boot) and make a blank file on it called 'ssh' - no file extension. This enables ssh access automatically. Stick it in your Pi and plug it into your network router and a power source. Find its ip address - i log into my router by typing its ip address into a web browser and look at connected devices, there are other methods though. I use a program called Putty to ssh. There are many tutorials on how to do the above and it isnt as hard as it first seems. I used 2 tutorials to do this and i will link to them directly as the original authors explain it better than me. The first one is muuuch longer than the second which is just 3 steps so bare with it. ***NOTE*** When the first tutorial suggests a reboot after the upgrade, DO IT! Then ssh back into the Pi and continue. Don't bother rebooting after tutorial 1 either. Tutorial 1 - Turn Raspberry Pi into a portable wifi hotspot See 'CONNECTING' after doing step 2 in the next tutorial to actually connect to the scope as what you have just done changes it a bit. Tutorial 2 - Make it talk to SkySafari App and the 'Scope You can now unplug the pi from your router. Plug your USB to serial adapter into the pi, your telescope cable into that and connect it to your scope as you would do with a pc (mine is into the AutoStar hand box) and use it as a stand alone adapter just like the £200 SkyFi adapter! CONNECTING: To connect SkySafari to the pi you simply connect your tablet or phone to the pi's network like you would any other wifi network, i called mine Scope, connect using the security key / password you made up in tutorial 1. Open SkySafari and follow step 3 in the second tutorial but with IP address 192.168.0.10 - the port is still 4000 (unless you changed it) If you are at home and your cable is long enough to reach your router you can plug the pi into that and use your home internet too - which you cant do with the SkyFi adapter! I am going to shorten my serial cable to make it a neater package, i can always solder new plus to make an extension if i ever need one. I am also working on finding out how to make it share usb internet so a 4g dongle can be plugged into it when out and about since when you connect to the pi's wifi in the field you will not have internet on the device connected to it. Also the Pi could possibly be used for imaging or tracking, someone on here will probably know more on this.
  2. Hello all, I am trying to process data captured on friday during almost full moon, and I'm having a hell of a time of it.. Due to the full moon doing it's best sun impression my target was an open cluster (NGC 225 in Cassiopea), thinking it would be doable. I was using my 2" Explore Scientific CLS filter, my unmodded Nikon D7100 and captured 92 usable 45 second subs at ISO 400. Calibrated with bias and flat frames and stacked with linear fit clipping as the pixel rejection algorith. The mission for the night was not getting particularly good data, but getting decent tracking and round stars, something I have had lots of trouble with! Now that I am trying to process it, I find im dealing with some very nasty gradients / casts and I can't seem to get any good colors. An initial strech reveals a strong blue color cast/gradient that I can deal with in a number of ways. Linear fit DBE ABE followed by the usual: SCNR (green) Color Calibration No matter what I do I end up with the whole image being either really green or really red and not much else for color in any of the stars. I also think i burned out all the major stars by over saturation.. I know the CLS filter is going to wreak havoc on colors because it completely blocks parts of the spectrum, so maybe the CLS filter is just the wrong tool for the job? If anyone would like to show me what they can get from this data, and how (so preferably with PI) I would be really grateful. At the moment im thinking maybe the data is just really bad and not useable? Linked is the final integrated xisf (only xopped slightly): https://www.dropbox.com/s/nmxds87toc7vz51/integration.xisf?dl=0
  3. Hello there StarGazers or shall I say CloudGazers! Hahahaha! I'm sorting out an auto guiding rig for when the clouds vanish eventually. I'm using the Raspberry PI Model 2 with Lin_guider. I'm after either the following CCD's: QHY5L-II Mono or ZWO ASL120MM Mono Let me know if you have any spare or have recently upgraded. I was going to go with an Altair Astro mono GPCAM but currently there is no support from lin_guider or Linux drivers as of yet. Thanks all!
  4. daz

    M31 - Mosaic Test

    Finally got round to starting a proper mosaic in SGP, and putting skills in PI into practice from Warren Keller's excellent book! This is not a fully processed image by any means, just a 1st attempt at the alignment workflow for the mosaic. T: Skywatcher ED80 M: EQ6-AZGT C: AtikOne G: AtikGP F: Luminance E: 4 panes, each 6 x 300s; fov for each pane is 1.19 deg x 0.95 deg; Basic Process in PI: Calibrate Cosmic Correction Star Align Image Integration Crop ABE Star Align for Mosaic ABE Histogram Curves So, pleased with the outcome - cannot see the seam at all. Yes, the data is noisy - rejection needs tweaking and needs heaps of data, but the workflow for creating the mosaic makes sense having run through a few times tonight!
  5. Star Gazer

    NGC1499 - California Nebula

    I read and enjoy this form a lot. I wish I was able to post more (some) content, but I haven't been out for ages. Anyway got out last hight determined to get 1499. Started out taking 200 sec subs with my un-modded 7D. Then mister Moon came out to play, so decided to reduce the exposures to 100 secs (not really sure if that was a good strategy? Anyway here's the result of stacking in DSS (i'm not a fan of DSS but it seemed to have been good to me this time) and a histogram stretch in PI. PA: using Alignmaster Captue: BYE Comments and criticism welcome.
  6. Star Gazer

    NGC1499 DSS PI

    From the album: 2012

    California Nebula October 2012 - Unmodified Canon 7D, Lights 23x200 + 40x100, Darks 10x200 + 8x100. Stacked in DSS. Histogram stretched in PI

    © Tim Corso

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