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  2. I have the sw 100f9 ed it's a very well corrected scope with zero colour. It's been out for years and always got great reviews. It's called evostar now but was the black diamond before. Everthings the same cept the name. B4 that it was called gold pro. Anyway that's gonna be very hard to beat it's a doublet 53 glass and at f9 that's almost as good as the best. Its rated at 98%on the MTV chart or Abbie rating. Mine is 6 lbs that light my takahashi 102 TSA is 15 lbs. The ts doesnt say what it is besides a premium ed glass. So I'm not sure is that 53 glass or 51? Even if it was 53 glass being f7 brings it down to 93%which is still good but less if its 51 glass it's about 85% rating. If u could find that out that would be good. I dont see many ts scopes in cdn at all since its mainly sold over there more and here they probably got another similar name brand. If its 53 glass then do u want bit more portable? Or best colour image u can get?. If its portability u want then do ts, if image quality then SW 100ed However if the ts is a 51 glass I think get sw 100ed there will be a difference in 85% to 98% Joejaguar
  3. Good effort considering the conditions Charl, surprising what modern cameras can do.
  4. Yes. I must learn to read posts thoroughly. When I replied I missed that @Andy R wrote he used StarTools. I didn't mean to imply it wasn't good software.
  5. Item Found, thread can be closed
  6. Nice prom' Charl, local radio has promised the Sun will come out later but going on past performance they really can't be trusted Dave
  7. I can thoroughly recommend the Duet control board. OK a tad expensive but IMO well worth it. Very reliable and no editing and recompiling of firmware, everything is controlled from any web browser (I use Firefox). All firmware files can be edited from the browser and even files uploaded to the Duet. Also, printing parameters can be varied while the print is running.
  8. Hi @pidgeyjake and welcome to SGL. If you do a lot of travelling between Geneva (GVA) & London (LDN), then I too think the Mak will be a good choice and it is just within the 'airline/airplane carry-on' rule if sensibly packed. I have a Meade backpack/rucksack* ---> for transporting my 're-modded' ETX105 and a few eyepieces and accessories, (the mount and tripod gets packed in a suitcase/other), if I am relying on an aircraft or public transport, etc. The are a few downsides to owning a Mak. Below is a few... notorious dew-magnets - a dew-shield is a must have accessory. take a longtime to cooldown - I usually leave mine for 30-40minutes minimum. narrow field of view. Another popular portable 'scope that has good reviews is the SkyWatcher Heritage 130p Flextube - https://www.firstlightoptics.com/beginner-telescopes/skywatcher-heritage-130p-flextube.html. * my review of the review of the Meade backpack/rucksack here...
  9. As to a replacement with smaller pixels, I use a Superstar which has 4.65 micron pixels with a finder guider. They can be binned if necessary which should allow use with an oag.
  10. I agree too Rob......... In principle I agree Joe.. and not mad at all!. Now 1 issue.. I cant sell it as it was a gift from what was then my wife to be. Shes also asked that I don't sell.. Fortunately I own a good example. Its not that I don't like the Hex focuser in all honesty either. However I bought the 1:10 upgrade and fitted. Its not working correctly, and to add insult I cannot get the thing off!. It just works when it wants to. The grub screws are all jammed, so I cant even take it apart to regrease. Clearly a lemon!. Its annoying me hugely....
  11. I've been looking into various ways of sealing the camera to keep damp out so that I can cool it well below freezing and also maybe include some desiccant to dry any air already inside. The cooling tests have shown that even without sealing and desiccating, no wet gets onto the circuit board or upper part of the inside of the casing. All the damp/wet is in the bottom away from the electronics. I guess this is because the bottom is colder than the rest and any condensation prefers the colder parts. This makes me wonder if I'm over-thinking the situation.
  12. They look good looking at them on my Phone screen and remember that you not only have relatively short exposure time but captured during a full moon.
  13. Wow! Talk about maximising your potential space! Can you play the accordion?
  14. Looking at the slight blip you have, I am not sure if it is even anything to worry about.... Others with more experience may be able to comment further.
  15. Dew can occur quite quickly even on the primary and more on the secondary, fit a brushless pc fan on the rear end to either blow air up the tube or a fan to draw air down and have a secondary mirror heater, as I find that dew forms quickly on even my primary without the fan running and normally any dew% above 95% on the scale has a massive effect in ruining any images I get. but it's part of the newt learning process. my sct suffers even more than that tho. Ton
  16. So another scope that's semi big but portable is the 6 inch sct. It may be a bit better than 5 mak cause its 1 inch bigger so you will see more. The mak also has a smaller field of view so the sct may be a better all around scope. U can also bring it on planes as it just fit on carry one. It weights 6 lbs. U can also use a eq2 for lighter packages since it's so light for the weight Joejaguar
  17. I’m a handful of months into this hobby, and I’m considering upgrading my simply 70/500 frac to a 100mm doublet. I am struggling with what scope to get though. The two finalist are the TS 102 f7 and the SW 100ED f9. What I am trying to grasp is the subtle differences between these two. I understand the basics, and the pros and cons with, say a f5 vs f15, but how about f7 vs f9? The 100ED is 187mm longer than the TS102, but actually almost a full kg lighter (3 kg vs 4 kg). Would both be okay on a az-3 mount? The 187 extra mm on the 100ED might not be a problem because it is lighter? Does any graphs exist that explain the relationship between CA, SA, coma, astigmatism etc and focal ration? What is the drop off point in a doublet? Or is f7 and f9 close enough that only a truly experienced observer will notice the difference?
  18. I timed it to be almost exactly 10 minutes and 40 seconds... Is this something that one can get parts for? If so, do you know where? Is it normal for these gears to get damaged over time, or would it be more likely for it to be dirt/grit, as Mark suggests?
  19. I do as a rule, but I've not been able to find any printer control software for Linux that I get on with yet. I did try Repetier Host, but the Linux version really just seems to be the Windows version running under Mono and was a bit of a mess when I tried it. James
  20. Hello Mike, welcome to the lounge. Rick
  21. Ok old topic but these little scopes dont die!! WO66 SD doublet APO in burnt orange. I want to attach a Canon SL2 I have an SCT adaptor and the T-ring for the Canon but I can't find a field flattener. I'm just starting out in astrophotography. I've had the little scope for a long time and have a little celestron goto mount. I want to start with some light work first like the moon and progress from there. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've read alot of people having problems making something work.
  22. No the Primary is all the say down the tube the Secondary however is very given to collecting dew.
  23. Note it is very important to accurately remove the sky background before attempting to measure the instrument response otherwise it will not work on other spectra. Other tips:- Turn the image gain up to make sure you select the whole height of the spectrum when binning and that the sky background does not contain any of the measured spectrum or any other background stars or spectra. Smooth the published spectrum first to approximately match the resolution of the measured spectrum (ie make the Balmer lines look similarly wide so they divide out more accurately.) Remove any remaining artifacts from dividing the spectrum lines but not other features that are actually in the instrument response Do not over smooth the result. In particular, make sure it fits well at the blue end. If it does not your spectrum will rapidly shoot off either high or low. When you have the instrument response,use it to correct the spectrum you produced it from. The result should of course closely match the published spectrum. If it does not, investigate why it is wrong
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