ZWO2600MC questions

[tooth_dr]

Just a couple of questions. Camera arrived yesterday and it was clear last night.

I did get a few images but wanted to check a couple of things.

1) I’m shooting at Gain 100, didn’t touch offset, is this ok?

2) the images are black and white, is this normal in SGPro?

3) Do I need darks?  I took some last night but boy are they clean!

 

Anything else I should know too?

 

Thanks

Adam. 

[tomato]

I have the QHY version of this camera and usually run it in what QHY call the DSO photographic mode Gain 30, Offset 30.

I’m using it with NINA capture software which debayers the image so it shows up in colour on the monitor.

I’ve always used darks, flats and dark flats with my CMOS cameras but I should experiment with the 268 camera as it is as you have noted, a very clean sensor.

[tooth_dr]

44 minutes ago, tomato said:

I have the QHY version of this camera and usually run it in what QHY call the DSO photographic mode Gain 30, Offset 30.

I’m using it with NINA capture software which debayers the image so it shows up in colour on the monitor.

I’ve always used darks, flats and dark flats with my CMOS cameras but I should experiment with the 268 camera as it is as you have noted, a very clean sensor.

Cheers Tomato.  It's the first camera that is configurable (unlike CCDs) so dont want to waste tonight if I get a few hours!  I'm hoping to get a few subs on M42 this evening.

[Laurin Dave]

Hi Adam

I'm using Darks and 100 Gain and it seems to work fine..  I suspect that for bright stuff that Darks are somewhat optional although you'll  need to use them or bias to calibrate flats.   SGPro shows as B&W .. its a bit alarming at first

Dave

[tooth_dr]

27 minutes ago, Laurin Dave said:

Hi Adam

I'm using Darks and 100 Gain and it seems to work fine..  I suspect that for bright stuff that Darks are somewhat optional although you'll  need to use them or bias to calibrate flats.   SGPro shows as B&W .. its a bit alarming at first

Dave

Thanks Dave, appreciate the reply.  I'll stick with 100 then.  Cant wait to get a few more subs tonight.

[gorann]

Hi Adam,

I am not using darks since the darks I took when I first got the camera vere essentially completely black. They may be needed if I get forced to start using flats (as Dave suggests) but so far my system is so clean that I do not really need flats and the little vignetting I may have is dealt with using Gradient Exterminator of DBE. I use gain 100. Initially I tried gain 0 but I had a subjective impression that gain 100 gave a better image with the same total integration time. The curves from ZWO shows that dynamic range is alsmost the same at gain 0 and 100 but read noise is much lower at gain 100 (I assume you have seen those curves). I have set offset to 30 but that is just arbitrary (think I did it becasue I was recommended to use 30 on my ASI071) and it seems to work fine. I usually run it at -15°C so the cooling system does not have to work too hard.

Edited January 21, 2021 by gorann

[Allinthehead]

Hi Adam, as above Sgpro won't debayer so always shows image in mono.

Darks are needed to remove fixed pattern noise and hot pixels. You'll still get a nice result without but I would use them. I find that bias works better to calibrate flats. 

I also used gain 100 and gain 0 and have just gone back to 0 as the full well is about double that of gain 100. You'll end up with better star colour at 0. 

As for offset, just make sure you're not clipping blacks, check the histogram is well seperated from the left hand side and if it isn't adjust up until it is and remember that if you change it you'll need to redo all your calibration.

I've experimented with various sub lengths from 150 seconds to 300 and find at f3.3 I get the best results at between 150-180. 

[tooth_dr]

36 minutes ago, gorann said:

Hi Adam,

I am not using darks since the darks I took when I first got the camera vere essentially completely black. They may be needed if I get forced to start using flats (as Dave suggests) but so far my system is so clean that I do not really need flats and the little vignetting I may have is dealt with using Gradient Exterminator of DBE. I use gain 100. Initially I tried gain 0 but I had a subjective impression that gain 100 gave a better image with the same total integration time. The curves from ZWO shows that dynamic range is alsmost the same at gain 0 and 100 but read noise is much lower at gain 100 (I assume you have seen those curves). I have set offset to 30 but that is just arbitrary (think I did it becasue I was recommended to use 30 on my ASI071) and it seems to work fine. I usually run it at -15°C so the cooling system does not have to work too hard.

Thank you Goran.  I seen the graphs and thought that gain 100 looked to be ideal.  

 

My offset is set at 50 but this is the default setting when I plugged it in.  I'm still on a USB 2 PC, although my new one arrived a couple of days, I just havent had a chance to download all the software onto it.  It is slow to download at USB 2.  It says manual below because I had to lower the USB traffic to get it work on my PC.  I have it at -10deg C, but it was only using about 10%-15% power to stay there.

Edited January 21, 2021 by tooth_dr

[Allinthehead]

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/751795-zwo-asi-2600mm-pro-first-report-and-test-shots/#entry10820865

As an aside, looks very promising.

[tooth_dr]

10 minutes ago, Allinthehead said:

Hi Adam, as above Sgpro won't debayer so always shows image in mono.

Darks are needed to remove fixed pattern noise and hot pixels. You'll still get a nice result without but I would use them. I find that bias works better to calibrate flats. 

I also used gain 100 and gain 0 and have just gone back to 0 as the full well is about double that of gain 100. You'll end up with better star colour at 0. 

As for offset, just make sure you're not clipping blacks, check the histogram is well seperated from the left hand side and if it isn't adjust up until it is and remember that if you change it you'll need to redo all your calibration.

I've experimented with various sub lengths from 150 seconds to 300 and find at f3.3 I get the best results at between 150-180. 

I'll stick with dark, and can use bias too.  It isnt too arduous to take these so no issues on that front.

I initially thought the camera wasnt working because my other cameras all have mechanical shutters, and I'm used to hearing the sound of it clicking on and off with every exposure!!

I'm using it with my F4.4 refractor for now, and I tried a few 300s subs last night.  I'll need to look at the data later.  I might be better off with 0 gain if I use it on the Tak?

[tooth_dr]

4 minutes ago, Allinthehead said:

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/751795-zwo-asi-2600mm-pro-first-report-and-test-shots/#entry10820865

As an aside, looks very promising.

It does indeed, thanks for sharing.

[Allinthehead]

1 minute ago, tooth_dr said:

I'll stick with dark, and can use bias too.  It isnt too arduous to take these so no issues on that front.

I initially thought the camera wasnt working because my other cameras all have mechanical shutters, and I'm used to hearing the sound of it clicking on and off with every exposure!!

I'm using it with my F4.4 refractor for now, and I tried a few 300s subs last night.  I'll need to look at the data later.  I might be better off with 0 gain if I use it on the Tak?

I think so. If you look at the star colour of the two images below. M45 at gain 100 and the other at gain 0.

[tooth_dr]

1 minute ago, Allinthehead said:

I think so. If you look at the star colour of the two images below. M45 at gain 100 and the other at gain 0.

I love that M45 image, it's utterly incredible.

[Allinthehead]

8 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

I love that M45 image, it's utterly incredible

👍 good luck tonight, hoping for clear sky down here too.

[kirkster501]

I have the QHY version of same camera.   I use Gain 0 and Offset 30 so far

I use darks - although sensor is very clean anyway so may not be required, I need to experiment more.  I use flats and flat-darks as well.  No BIAS.  I have been very happy with the results so far.

Will try gain of 30 too but weather conditions since I have received camera in September have been diabolical so not had enough chances to use it.

Edited January 21, 2021 by kirkster501

[gorann]

Gain is apparently on a different scale with QHY. I wonder about using darks with this sensor. One reason why I do not use them appart from the fact that there is zero amp glow and they do not seem to be needed is that I worry they could possibly do more harm than good as they introduce an additional step i the data processing and may add to S/N ratio, but maybe that is superstition. They are easy enough to do and use as a master dark and I use them on my ASI1600MM and ASI071MC, where there is amp glow and they are really needed.

[smr]

Hi guys, I've just bought my 2600MC Pro. At the moment I've only ever had a DSLR for Astrophotography and simply use Sharpcap for PA, then APT with PHD2.

Would you recommend I opt for different software with the 2600? What would the advantage of SGPro be and what does it do? 
 

[tooth_dr]

1 minute ago, smr said:

Hi guys, I've just bought my 2600MC Pro. At the moment I've only ever had a DSLR for Astrophotography and simply use Sharpcap for PA, then APT with PHD2.

Would you recommend I opt for different software with the 2600? What would the advantage of SGPro be and what does it do? 
 

I use SGPro but find APT does the same job. There after differences but if your used to APT there is no need to change. 

[Davey-T]

3 minutes ago, smr said:

What would the advantage of SGPro be and what does it do? 

Confuses you with endless little pop out boxes that you can't find again when you want to 😂 so I'd stick to APT

Dave

[smr]

😂 ok thanks guys. Will stick with APT.