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Do I need dark frames?


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Another consideration with flats is that the bigger your sensor the larger the light drop off from the centre to the edges.

With my aps-c i find flats to be absolutely vital. While i can use gradient removal tools or even artificial flats to fix, i find the end results to be far superior with them. Bias/flat dark subtraction also needed for proper flats.

If your sensor suffers any amplifier glow then darks are also crucial. 

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Another example further to my comments earlier: 

Quote

 The middle is always brighter than the edges. 

Without Flats applied:

HH without flats.png

the flat itself 

HH flat.png

Same image with flats applied

HH with flats.png

Edited by carastro
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On 19/11/2019 at 10:21, carastro said:

Another example further to my comments earlier: 

Without Flats applied:

HH without flats.png

the flat itself 

HH flat.png

Same image with flats applied

HH with flats.png

Hi Carole, would this be any different on narrowband rather than rgb filters as I've never experienced this so far..

 

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On 18/11/2019 at 12:55, ollypenrice said:

Aha, I was baffled when one camera lost its long-time column defect. Maybe I nutted it while fumbling around in the dark!

Olly

Isn’t that how you used to fix a dodgy TV in the old days, just give the set a tap or two on the side?☺️

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am currently dithering too and also taking darks so in same position of preferring to use the darks time to do lights if I don't need to do darks with dithering.

Just to check for those that don't do darks - do you use bias frames instead of darks in DSS? And leave the darks as empty? Not seen this in any tutorial and I am still learning.

Thanks,

Mo

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