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Alan64

Wooden Tripod Legs

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I love that replacement knob Alan, really great work.

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The knob has been sanded down smooth, and is now ready for finishing...

1125765375_oakenknob4.jpg.d9b1cb3bd9e898b5e569f99abb6caf9b.jpg

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I applied two coats of black leather-dye(for woods, too), buffed off the excess, dried with a blow-dryer, buffed again(although unnecessary), and applied one coat of spar-urethane...

1086225230_oakenknob7.jpg.c0d65d62a8102a54c078c6353948488b.jpg

Now, it looks a bit rough, but it will receive a second, and possibly a third coat.  The dye did not blacken every last pore, but near enough.

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The first coat of spar-urethane almost disappeared into the wood.  I then sanded the knob with 220-grit, and applied a second coat.  The coat is still wet and shiny here...

487915054_oakenknob8.jpg.ead85223c23100b1bb73faa4095eb338.jpg

I placed it in the loo whilst I sleep, lest I breathe in the vapour.

Edited by Alan64
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I could only find four of these, which were still inserted into the side-pieces of the two leg-assemblies that were still bound together...

aluminum2.jpg.f9e3180b132a72344cac63a38b8aa880.jpg

They keep the tips of the clamping-knobs from digging into the bottom of the holes of the three side-pieces, two for each...

1431214535_clampingholes.jpg.a5b508d70cc3ea904f98c742e98f2837.jpg

I found a strip of 1/16"-thick aluminum stock out in the storage.  I'm going to go ahead and make all new ones, six in total...

aluminum.jpg.20e2038ce77cb2205f4a560bcef00f97.jpg

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I got lazy and made only two.  I flattened out and cleaned the four originals; not a thing wrong with them...

aluminum3.jpg.132575e71c6697b66a288ffbddd40b9b.jpg

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And the days and nights plod ever onward...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Og7-6YubuS4

The last of the parts to be restored, or replaced, the nine wood-screws specifically that are required to assemble the legs, at last...

704454022_blackoxide.jpg.3b6d99c30628dfb1d41ef24cbf0f4f29.jpg

 

They've been soaking in WD-40 for the last day or two.  Of mere black-oxide, the rust was considerable.  I cleaned one of each type, placed them in a bag, then to match them with those at my local hardware store.  This is due to the fact that the black-oxide began to slough off along with the rust whilst cleaning them.  I knew that that was going to happen, and I don't have the ability to refinish them, so I'm being held back once again, until they're replaced.  I still haven't stumbled on to a solution of a spreader, either; bars or chains, one or the other...

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Hmm, what might I make out of this rather good-sized chunk of dense, hard, heavy wood, and roughly 56cm x 18cm x 22mm...

94542738_heavywood.jpg.f61ced2ce0ec71ca90d705ba9f676de2.jpg

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I've decided that I don't want a chain-spreader.

Luckily, I have this mount, and its bar-spreader to serve as a rough template.  I'm not going to take it apart to copy it; no need...

672617131_ATVItripodlegs2.jpg.ab54eeaba5294e69ca7f99eb4f31f976.jpg
 
I could make the hub there in the center out of oak, but of three thinner layers, like plywood, and perhaps stronger than a solid piece.  The bars can also be layered.  That's the plan at present.  It will be a bit chunkier in size, being of wood, but it doesn't have to be too much more massive.  The most difficult aspect will be where they attach to the legs themselves.  I don't have that worked out quite yet, but it will come to me eventually, and in a fog.

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The fog has been rather productive. I stood there before it, and then all of the sudden something came forth from the mist...

yokes9a.jpg.ea21e17c4d21df6071a4be5a4b94e9c5.jpg

Those were absolutely no fun at all to make, but I plodded on nonetheless. The six yokes were made from homemade plywood, of three layers of 1/4" red-oak, glued and clamped, then cut out, shaped, and in the end the thickness reduced to 5/8" in width after I had deemed them to appear too massive.

I had abandoned the idea of making the spreader, at least partially, of a small portion of rosewood that I have. I'm using red-oak throughout for the spreader instead. The other day, I went out again for some more hardware, and got (3) 10-32 x 3" screws, (6) flat-washers and (3) lock-nuts, for attaching the arms that haven't been made yet, and all of stainless-steel...

1497634086_spreaderhdwe.jpg.b425bf883d6523c5269ee75c822c55c8.jpg

I got all the same in #6 size, too, and for this, which is not quite finished...

hub12.jpg.d563ed92855c4c5497e01b682ff289ea.jpg

Oops, my bad; that's not the one. This rather...

hub14.jpg.ff835a8fc2ab2e8baba9a6c7d2ec731a.jpg

I felt that I needed to start at the legs, then move to the center and create the hub, then to bridge the gap betwixt them, and with the arms that I haven't crafted quite yet.

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Creating these precise marks for the hub's yokes, and for the drilling operation, was nothing short of gruelling...

hub15.jpg.65168ca30087b037c7c91cf33b1a8cbc.jpg

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hub17.jpg.8ee018b2bf5f51a2ba35df5a4e3affb2.jpg

The yokes were made from, again, homemade plywood.  Instead of three layers of 1/4" red-oak, I used only two, but with a 1/16" layer of maple, the grain of the latter perpendicular to that of the former.  I found it more difficult to score the maple for gluing than I did with the oak.  It's a tough little layer; perhaps as Kevlar, in the wood world.

I'm not looking forward to sawing six stainless-steel screws down to the proper length, but it must be done.

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The poor scope mounted on these legs may get no attention at all, Good going Alan...

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Thanks all.  I have decided upon the mount-head and its tripod-hub to which these legs will be attached, but that will not be revealed until after they are attached, and illustrated.

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2 hours ago, CraigT82 said:

Haven't seen an old 5p coin like that in years!

Yes, I was wondering if anyone would recognise that five-pence coin.  It's dated 1988.  Pre-decimally, it's a shilling.

I'm not a numaticist however, but a philatelist.  That's my secondary preoccupation, and after astronomy.  Astronomy will always be my first love, but philately is not that far behind.  Back in the early 2000s, I had collected these...

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Of them all, these are my most favourite, the greys...

1431285715_1876-826dgrey.jpg.10e143a79148361cb7beceebebb92222.jpg

Through astronomy, and philately, one travels through time...

451091814_18871sdull-greenDearBoss.JPG.369c8d562d2fef0dc2b16d0851caeb55.JPG

 

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I doubt a Shilling is dated 1988, if it is, it's a fake.

The UK decimalised to new pence in February 1971,
a date well remembered by myself as my dad gave all the old coins to my older brother,
My brother had a great feast from the local sweet shop, candy store in USA parlance.

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On 16/12/2018 at 10:50, Alan White said:

I doubt a Shilling is dated 1988, if it is, it's a fake.

The UK decimalised to new pence in February 1971,
a date well remembered by myself as my dad gave all the old coins to my older brother,
My brother had a great feast from the local sweet shop, candy store in USA parlance.

I meant that it's equivalent to a pre-decimal shilling.  That's what I had read anyway.

Incidentally, the yokes for the hub have been glued and screwed on to their slats...

hub18.jpg.d08c178daebb975287b8fdc159dcbec6.jpg

However, I may cut the triangle down again, from 2.25" to a hair over 2".  I'll need to mull that over before I proceed.  I want the hub overall as small as possible.

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The yokes were finally glued and screwed to the triangle.  I used stainless-steel screws, as those will be exposed somewhat.  The hub is now fully assembled...


hub19.jpg.a538724c312a3d76a077d2cf74fbf1fc.jpg

The triangle, to which the yokes were attached, started out at 2.5" in length on all three sides.  I then cut it down to 2.25".  But in the end, I cut it down to 2.0625"; just 1/16" over 2".  I did want the hub as small as possible.

Edited by Alan64
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