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3rd try. Comments and suggestions?

emyliano2000

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emyliano2000

emyliano2000

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Hi guys.

Last night I had the chance to try my setup for the 3rd time. The results can't even be compared to my 1st and 2nd times and it's not even close to what some of you guys are doing here but I think it's a good start.

I used DSS for all of them: 21 lights, 26 darks, 23 flats and 26 bias.

Please bare in mind that this is the 1st I managed to make my setup work and it's the 1st time I'm taking darks, flats and bias and 1st try when I'm trying to process photos.

Out of all of them I like the M42 the best. I'm sure there's a lot wrong with them.

I think I've done something wrong when I took the darks too.

Any comments are much appreciated, don't be too harsh though, I'm only a newbie.

M42

M42a.png

M51

M51a_edited-1.png

M81-M82

M82.png

M1

M1.png

And have a look at one of the Dark frames.

 

Dark.png

 

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alacant

alacant

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Hi. Lovely shots. I think there could be more detail lurking in the Orion snap. You could stretch -develop- it more. Darks: just don't use them. Stack the light, flat and bias frames only. I found that on my Canon, the dark frames introduced more noise. And they're a pain to have to do. And it's impossible to get the temperature right for them. HTH.

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emyliano2000

emyliano2000

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19 minutes ago, alacant said:

You could stretch -develop- it more

To be honest , I don't even know what I'm doing ? 

I'm only using some freeware software for the processing and don't even know what the buttons do. Trying them one by one to see the difference. ?

There seems to be a glare in my photos and I don't know what's causing it.

Can it be the camera heating up or msybe the clip in filter not properly cleaned?

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JemC

JemC

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They are very good for your 3rd attempt :happy11: well done,

I am by no means an expert but looking at the dark frame it looks like you could have some light leaking in, this could be coming in from the view finder if you are not covering it up? it is possible for light to leak in from the bottom/rear of the ota as well?

sure someone with more knowledge than me will be along soon

 

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emyliano2000

emyliano2000

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7 minutes ago, wxsatuser said:

Your dark frame looks like its got light leakage.

It is possible. hat can I use to cover the viewfinder?

 

7 minutes ago, JemC said:

it is possible for light to leak in from the bottom/rear of the ota as well

The bottom of the OTA is covered with a shower cap.

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Stu1976j

Stu1976j

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Wow that's has bought a lot more detail out of the image great job. the core has blown out some what but I am not knowledgeable enough to advise on whats the best way to correct this problem but plenty here that can i'm sure. Great work :) 

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wxsatuser

wxsatuser

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7 hours ago, emyliano2000 said:

does the viewfinder have to be covered even when I'm taking the lights? Looking at one of them now I can see the same glare on the bottom left.

I converted 2 of the raw files just to show you the glare on the bottom left

 

Yes it is a good idea to keep it covered.
If that does'nt cure it look elsewhere for leaks.

Basically all your calibration frames need to be perfect otherwise they will ruin your lights.

You could use the dithering in your Lacerta guider and get at least 24 lights or more and forget the darks.
You will still need the bias and flats but the darks unless well matched to lights do more bad than good.
Dithering by at least 12 pixels will kill the colour noise and reveal a lot more detail.

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emyliano2000

emyliano2000

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It looks like tonight there's gonna be clear skies where I live so I'll give my 4th try a go. I don't think I'll be using mirror lock anymore as it puzzles me. I don't know why but the dslr take 2 sets of shots when I do it, a really short one and the longer one set by me.

I set 20 exposures at 2 min, waiting time to 20 sec and mirror lock to 4 sec and this is what I get:

1st one - the mirror goes up, taking a really short exposure, 1/10 sec, the mirror stays up and the lacerta is counting down the 4 sec after witch the long exposure starts. 

2nd one - after the 1st long exposure the 20 sec waiting time is counted down. After the 20 sec the mirror goes up again taking another 1/10 exposure, the 4 sec are counted down again. After these 4 sec the next long exposure stars and so on.

Is this what is supposed to happen?

And I think I'm gonna have to get the photoshop. At €260, pixinsight seems a bit too much for me for now.

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Peco4321

Peco4321

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53 minutes ago, emyliano2000 said:

Sw 200p ota on a eq6 synscan mount, moded eos 700d, lacerta mgen autoguider, ts oag 9mm and baader mpcc mark 3.

Thanks. I have skywatcher 150p and the images look a similar scale to what I'm getting. Like you I'm fairly new to all this and get a bit bamboozled with all the processing. I'm definitely going to take the advice of not bothering with darks, the time saved on that means more lights. 

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cjdawson

cjdawson

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15 hours ago, emyliano2000 said:

To be honest , I don't even know what I'm doing ? 

I'm only using some freeware software for the processing and don't even know what the buttons do. Trying them one by one to see the difference. ?

There seems to be a glare in my photos and I don't know what's causing it.

Can it be the camera heating up or msybe the clip in filter not properly cleaned?

Shhhh, don't tell anyone, but most of us don't really know what we're doing ;-)

Experimentation with the buttons, and checking out the other posts that people have done will give you lots of ideas for processing. Your mileage with each technique will vary, even from image to image.

 

14 hours ago, emyliano2000 said:

By the way all the subs are 2min at 800 ISO. I'll try 1600 ISO on the fainter ones next time. I would really like to take some proper darks too so I can suppress the noise as much as possible.

Don't switch up to ISO 1600.  From my experiments with my 70D, above ISO 800, you tend to get noise introduced to the image.  Best sticking with ISO 800 or lower.

If you are interested, I tested doing twice as many subs at ISO 1600, than at ISO 800, and found that the image quality was lower.   i.e. the same total exposure time.

For supressing noise, your best bet is to stick with ISO 800, and simply get more exposure time.

 

 

Your images are looking great so far. :)

 

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