Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b83b14cd4142fe10848741bb2a14c66b.jpg

Why can't i get any detail in my solar images

MARS1960

By MARS1960
in Getting Started With Imaging

Recommended Posts

MARS1960

MARS1960

Posted
Posted

My solar images are not showing any detail despite trying various shutter speeds from 1/80 to 1/8000.

I am using my canon 60da and native FL on my ED80 with baader solar film.

Is this a hardware issue that i'm not figuring out or do i just need to learn how to process solar images and draw the detail out?

Here is one from yesterday, i'm obviously doing something wrong.

 

IMG_5919.tif

Link to comment
Share on other sites
johnfosteruk

johnfosteruk

Posted
Posted

there's nothing going on at the mo. I was lucky to start the solar game as two decent size ARs came around the corner but that's it for now. You may find you'll capture some faculae and granulation if you take several images and stack them but with nothing to focus on its not easy! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MARS1960

MARS1960

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, Philip R said:

Don't panic! Normal service will be resumed in another eleven years...

We are now entering 'solar minimum'.

Lol, yes i know, that's why i didn't buy the Lunt or even the Herschel wedge, it doesn't explain why there isn't any texture to the image though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MARS1960

MARS1960

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 minutes ago, johnfosteruk said:

Tip there's nothing going on at the mo. I was lucky to start the solar game as two decent size ARs came around the corner but that's it for now. You may find you'll capture some faculae and granulation if you take several images and stack them but with nothing to focus on its not easy! 

 

That's the word i was i looking for granulation.  I did try stacking around 2000 frames in registax from an AVi but that didnt help either :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites
D4N

D4N

Posted
Posted

A filter can help for white light, I've found the Baader solar continuum filter provides much more contrast than unfiltered, failing that if you have an OIII filter I've read that can work well too.

It won't put sunspots on the sun for you though, unless there are some dust bunnies on it ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
spaceman_spiff

spaceman_spiff

Posted
Posted

What settings are you using on your camera? The 60D has a movie 640x480 crop mode are you using that? Or are you using live view 5x. Both these movie modes have exactly or near 1:1 pixel resolution.

If you are not using these modes you may be loosing detail in your pictures because the camera is downsampling multiple pixels into each pixel of the final image.

Dan. :happy7:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
xtreemchaos

xtreemchaos

Posted
Posted

i use 1:1 crop mode with my 1200d with single shots, it do make a big difference, iso 100, i take from 50 to 120 frames and stax with regi, and shoot in jpeg "jpeg i hear them shout" i find it works best for me. goodluck with your next shots. charl.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
xtreemchaos

xtreemchaos

Posted
Posted

i do sometimes shoot in Raw Steve when the seeings not so good and i need to grab every bit i can get, but when the seeing fair to good ive compaired my Raw shots and jpeg and there isnt any difference, might be with me shooting from indoors. clear skys charl.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MARS1960

MARS1960

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, spaceman_spiff said:

What settings are you using on your camera? The 60D has a movie 640x480 crop mode are you using that? Or are you using live view 5x. Both these movie modes have exactly or near 1:1 pixel resolution.

If you are not using these modes you may be loosing detail in your pictures because the camera is downsampling multiple pixels into each pixel of the final image.

Dan. :happy7:

Yes, that's why I bought the 60da, it's one of only three cameras that has that mode.

I think my issue is focusing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MARS1960

MARS1960

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, Night Hawk said:

Also to use a low ISO. I use around 100. With a too higher iso it will be too bright to notice any detail once the sun is active again.

Yes, Iso 100 is what I use and a very fast T but I still struggle to get a decent histogram, maybe I should add my 2 x Barlow that would give a much lower F value.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
spaceman_spiff

spaceman_spiff

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, MARS1960 said:

Yes, that's why I bought the 60da, it's one of only three cameras that has that mode.

I think my issue is focusing.

Its also the main reason I went for a second hand 550D! Focusing is a real issue with my Mak, I focus with trial and error - I find the best focus then move slightly out of focus and take a 5 min movie. Then I move the focus in very slightly and take another movie. I do this a few times until I can see the image is definitely getting worse. Out of the movies I have shot, one or two of them will be pretty close to optimum focus.

As for the ISO issue, I actually depart from the consensus of using very low ISO for your shots. I prefer to take faster exposures at ISO 800-1600, that way I am confident that those periods of clear seeing were captured without any possible blurring. Also, if I am stacking >100 shots then the noise associated with high ISO actually helps to increase bit depth and remove quantisation error.

Dan. :happy7::happy7: 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Stu

Stu

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, MARS1960 said:

Yes, that's why I bought the 60da, it's one of only three cameras that has that mode.

I think my issue is focusing.

I agree, sort the focus out and then see where you are.

Even when the disk is plain I find there are fascinating things to look at whether it is a patch of faculae or just granulation which can look incredible at high power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MARS1960

MARS1960

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, Stu said:

I agree, sort the focus out and then see where you are.

Even when the disk is plain I find there are fascinating things to look at whether it is a patch of faculae or just granulation which can look incredible at high power.

Stu, can i use the FWHM function on BYEOS or will it not work for solar focusing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.