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About MARS1960

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf
  • Birthday 29/10/60

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  • Interests
    Photography, astrophotography, fast cars, (my Supercharged Aston Martin V8 Vantage roadster) reading, films.
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  1. Using lower iso ?

    Personally i have never bothered with darks, just lights, flats and bias, but i do agree with Mike on lights, my images improved massively when i started doubling my lights, i used to do 20-30, i now do at least 60.
  2. I was considering one of these a couple of years ago so did a lot of research, you may find this from the "sky at night" review article helpful. A real ‘star’ tracker With our basic setup and camera lens set at 31mm, our 20-minute exposures of Cygnus showed nice sharp stars and no sign of trailing. We swapped to our 70-300 mm lens – as you increase the lens size, you also magnify the effects of star trailing. Setting the lens to 300mm and aiming at the Double Cluster in Perseus, we managed to capture five-minute exposures with only the slightest hint of trailing. Switching to our heavier Canon EF 100-400mm lens (and adding the Fine-Tuning Mounting assembly for greater stability), we set the lens to 100mm and captured good five-minute exposures of the Andromeda Galaxy region. Finally we pushed the lens to 400mm, aimed at the Double Cluster and got exposures of two minutes before significant trailing.
  3. Focus Tube Removal

    I used this video when i wanted to remove mine.
  4. Hunters moon :)

    In that case how about a lampers moon .
  5. What you are really comparing is doublets and triplets and even the quads like 71-II. In my lay opinion as an amateur who likes to take images of DSO's when i can (which isn't many times a year) i am more than happy with my used equinox ED80 doublet, it is very well colour corrected and takes fabulous images, i really don't need to spend 3x as much on a triplet/quad, however i did spend £39 on top for used SW field flattener, so for £439 i have what i consider to be a cracking good widefield, fairly fast (F/6) scope.
  6. My first Narrowband image. Heart in Ha

    Fantastic job Tim, great heart and i'm loving those teeny weeny pin prick stars.
  7. Here comes winter! M42 quickie

    Great image, that's what i love about M42, so much can be gathered in such a short time.
  8. Hunters moon :)

    Thanks charl, i'll reprocess, drop the wavelets and do a mild sharpen in Affinity instead. I can't believe just after i hit post i saw you had called it Hunters moon too, and there was me trying to be different lol.
  9. Very nice charl, that 3rd image in particular shows up the peppering the moon has had very well.
  10. Harvest Moon

    I just did John , only used the Sony again but took 4k video this time, still not happy with the result so it's time to buy an SCT .
  11. Hunters moon :)

    I think there will be many Harvest moons posted so being the Neanderthal i am i shall go for the alternative . As as aside i would be grateful if someone could explain why i get a thin white border round my moon when i stack from video but not from a multitude of single images. Thanks.
  12. Harvest Moon

    Very nice John, i particularly like the second one, i won't bother posting mine now .
  13. The Pleiades

    I don't think i made myself clear, during image capture you have exposure and ISO control, if you want to add PP stretching as a variable then you may as well add all other instances that have a profound effect but i feel that image acquisition and post processing are two completely different things. But thanks, i didn't realise you could stretch a histogram in any beneficial way if it was attached at the left hand side, and i mean't having to clip the back point deliberately to achieve any beneficial stretch if it was attached.
  14. Midnight moon 2/3rd with bridge camera.

    Thanks John, pretty much an exercise in getting to grips with Affinity Photo, i'm very pleased with how easy it is to use and bursting with more than enough features and plugins to satisfy my needs.
  15. The Pleiades

    I'm pretty new to AP but, ISO must make a difference and you may well need to increase the exposure time. What if at ISO1600 at a certain exposure your histogram was just breaking away but at ISO800 it was slam up against it, how could you then stretch the histogram without clipping the black point? You only have exposure and ISO, it's not like you can alter the aperture so you must alter either exposure or ISO no? Nice image OP. I would stick with ISO800 when possible but use an exposure time that gets your histogram about a 1/3 > 1/4 in from the left.