Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[Stub Mandrel]

How about this stuff to re-attach wires?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-3ML-Silver-Conductive-Compound-Electrically-Paint-Glue-Wire-Paste-Trace-Repair-/381261278511?hash=item58c4f16d2f:g:SRMAAOSwNSxVOvyD

That's pretty much what I had in mind. CPC do one you can wash off if it goes wrong.

[JanH]

it's conductive but at least mine didn't hardened well (wires didn't hold strong enough for my use - but it was much bigger than sensor wires). Buy and try, it's a bargain. Siringe must be pressed hard to get out a small drop of paste. better to apply with a tiny wire rather than from siringe dirrectly.

[Herra Kuulapaa]

I doubt you'd be getting good enough conductivity. There is a reason why those wires are made of gold..

Edited October 25, 2015 by Herra Kuulapaa

[Stub Mandrel]

I doubt you'd be getting good enough conductivity. There is a reason why those wires are made of gold..

If conductivity was the requirement, they'd be made of silver not gold, its so they are easier to attach and don't corrode.

The silver paint has ~ 1/400 the conductivity of gold but as the cross-sectional area will be many times the diameter of the wire and current path will be very short, I don't imagine the difference would be significant (possibly detectable by the people who use gold plated battery clamps for their in-car HI-FI).

Any minor difference should be compensated for by control frames.

I think its actually doing it that's the challenge.

[Herra Kuulapaa]

In this we're basically transferring currents measured in electrons. Using paint as a conductive will introduce resistor effect to the read procedure. I'm in impression that those wires are a column storage capacitor connectors, which would that the data is being read through the paint on MHz level. So what I just mean is that a raw amp level force analogy of car hifi doesn't really apply here I'm afraid. But by all means, please try it. I'd be happy to hear the results.

[Stub Mandrel]

It's amazing what you can get away with up to 20MHz+, and there are times I suspect the 10D runs at nearer 20 KHz... anyway nothing to lose by trying  ;-)

[Gina]

Good luck - I think you'll need it

[Gina]

Dare I say it?  I'm considering having another go at this    Proper astronomical cameras are also an astronomical price and I just haven't got enough for the astro projects I'm working on and there's no way I can afford to buy any more.  I have to share cameras between imaging rigs.  I know I'm lucky to have what I've got but unfortunately I'm greedy.  I'm also totally mad and feel the need to do things "no one has done before" or at least very few.  Add to that the feeling of never wanting to be defeated in anything I do and there you have it! 

Edited November 1, 2015 by Gina

[russellhq]

Dare I say it?  I'm considering having another go at this    Proper astronomical cameras are also an astronomical price and I just haven't got enough for the astro projects I'm working on and there's no way I can afford to buy any more.  I have to share cameras between imaging rigs.  I know I'm lucky to have what I've got but unfortunately I'm greedy.  I'm also totally mad and feel the need to do things "no one has done before" or at least very few.  Add to that the feeling of never wanting to be defeated in anything I do and there you have it! 

Don't do it! You might encourage me to start again!! :D

I've got a working sensor from an 1100D with half the CFA cleaned off.  I was using it for comparison tests but I've managed to kill all my working bodies. I've been casually watching ebay for cheap bodies but haven't made the plunge!

[Treborstar]

Hey there,

it's been great fun to read through this entire thread. Took me almost three evenings.

However, I followed the suggestions. Now I have a debayered Canon DLSR 600D. Glass removal with 70W soldering iron and sharp blade was tideous but worked fine. UHU two component glue for wire and blue area coverage was very helpful. Using the Dremel conical polishing tools by hand with plastic nano particle polish removed the green layer withthe microlenses. In the corners I polished a bit deeper with no effect. Then washed everything with IPA.

I had an already modified 600D. So I just put back the Bader BCF filter and mounted everything back....and it still works .

Took about 4 hours all together.

Thank you for the good instructions and for starting this!!!

Now I can't wait to try it out. We have autumn fog in Switzerland's low lands :-(

Clear skies,

Robert

[Gina]

Fog here too

[Herra Kuulapaa]

Dare I say it?  I'm considering having another go at this    Proper astronomical cameras are also an astronomical price and I just haven't got enough for the astro projects I'm working on and there's no way I can afford to buy any more.  I have to share cameras between imaging rigs.  I know I'm lucky to have what I've got but unfortunately I'm greedy.  I'm also totally mad and feel the need to do things "no one has done before" or at least very few.  Add to that the feeling of never wanting to be defeated in anything I do and there you have it! 

Sounds good, or bad, don't really know

Which cameras you have in your mind?

I've been struggling with the D800am / D600am series lately. They're so friggin hard to deglass without heat. And with heat I measured the release temperature to be +250C (my Flir only measures up to that point so it might be also over 300C). Guess if the sensor survives it? Well, it does not

[Stub Mandrel]

Just a suggestion - the hazard is shattering the glass cover and shards breaking the chip wires, is it not?

Why not put a slip of high-strength tape over the glass before trying to prise it loose. That might stop any chip large enough to cause damage coming free.

[Herra Kuulapaa]

Just a suggestion - the hazard is shattering the glass cover and shards breaking the chip wires, is it not?

Why not put a slip of high-strength tape over the glass before trying to prise it loose. That might stop any chip large enough to cause damage coming free.

With Exmors it's a bit more complicated; X-acto knives are useless

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/166334-debayering-a-dslrs-bayer-matrix/?p=2740457

But, it was a clear last night so I have 10 Ha subs of California

[Gina]

That's one problem and tape helps with that but no, the problem is destroying the sensor with the heat.

[Stub Mandrel]

Ok, here's another idea.

Get a single point diamond wheel dresser (about £4 on the bay, a fraction of the cost of a scriber).

Scribe four lines around the hole you need in the chip, then VERY GENTLY two more across the diagonals (optional).

Apply tape.

Press on centre of the glass  with thumb or tap with tail-end of dresser.

The centre should break out with no need to use heat.

I used my wheel dresser to allow me to break a 6-foot mirror in two so that I could tip it a few weeks ago.

[Gina]

Sounds good, or bad, don't really know

Which cameras you have in your mind?

I've been struggling with the D800am / D600am series lately. They're so friggin hard to deglass without heat. And with heat I measured the release temperature to be +250C (my Flir only measures up to that point so it might be also over 300C). Guess if the sensor survives it? Well, it does not

Which cameras to try is something I'm not sure of.  The Canon EOS 1100D is good for astro aspects but very difficult to de-glass, the 450D is easier but less sensitive.  It also depends on what's available which I haven't checked lately.  I'm open to suggestions.

[Herra Kuulapaa]

Cutting glass involves usually a bending force, which then breaks the glass clean off by the cut point (like your mirror). Sensor glass is however unbendable because to bend it you'd need to bend the whole sensor chip. So, one can introduce shallow diamond cuts to the attached sensor glass, but cannot actually cut it loose like that. Then comes the heat. Glass can be shattered by a heat shock, but will it shatter a controlled way? No, not really

It's important to remember that I'm talking about the Exmor sensors now. Canon sensors are easier it that sense and X-acto knives are very usefull with them.

[Stub Mandrel]

Ah, I don't now how the glass is supported on the Sony chips. The Canon ones have a significant gap between coverglass and sensor.

[Gina]

There's just one faulty 1100D on ebay which I'm bidding on but there's still days left and the bids are shooting up!

[russellhq]

There's just one faulty 1100D on ebay which I'm bidding on but there's still days left and the bids are shooting up!

That'll be the one with the faulty shutter.

I've seen the not working ones going for around £85 with the odd one at £50-60. The lower price being nearer what I'm willing to pay!

[Dave_D]

There's just one faulty 1100D on ebay which I'm bidding on but there's still days left and the bids are shooting up!

dunno about you Gina, but it never fails to amaze me the monetry value people place on broken items...

[Gina]

Absolutely!

[Davey-T]

I like the Canon Powershot D10 Waterproof Digital compact camera, water damaged 

Dave

[Gina]

Oh yes   That's droll indeed