Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[Herra Kuulapaa]

Update to previous: Easier batch of Nikon D5100 was manufactured with serial 615xxxx, so based on this limited data I would advice looking into earlier models if possible.

[aluminumwelder]

I am not an astro photogrpaher but i do want to retry UV photography so this topic is of great interest to me since removing the cfa increases uv 6x!
I spend a few hours reading the first 30 pages of this thread and its a bit frustrating due to how slow it is to filter the info I need. 160 more pages to Go!

SO I turned to google simply put your search term in and then follow it with this  site:http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/166334-debayering-a-dslrs-bayer-matrix/

for example I wanted to see if anyone has used tape to remove the CFA so I typed in

tape site:http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/166334-debayering-a-dslrs-bayer-matrix/

gave me 4 results none of which were using tape to remove cfa, which Is want to try since I've read on this forum it can be done 
http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/486810-thinking-about-removing-the-cfa-from-my-20d-thoughts/

also googled 

epoxy  site:http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/166334-debayering-a-dslrs-bayer-matrix/

and found 3 topics on this thread that discussed protecting gold wires from accidental breakage took 10 seconds NOT hours.

Also if you click on the BASIC VIEW icon in the upper left corner of the forum page it removes all the distrating avatars and signatures and makes the forum easier to read.

Hopefully that helps all the new people wade through this topic easier.

Next as far as heating up the cover glass to get at the sensor surface I think the following method would work best
buy or make an aluminum tube about 100mm long and about the same outside perimeter of the sensor perimeter about 25mm x 17mm 

stuff the inside of the tube with rockwool or fiberglass insulation, and wrap some fiberlgass insulation aroudn the outside, (spark plug protectors)

Now place the tube directly on top of the sensor and heat the top part of the tube with a map or propane torch, the heat will travel down the tube and perfectly and evenly heat the sensors epoxies perimeter. It woudl probably be best to heat the tube up outside first so any contaminates are burned off. 

Next I have 2 questions:

is there a company that will custom cut down a 2" narrow band pass filter to about 25x17MM so I an use it as a cover glass for my modified DSLR?

What is the best way to clean the monochrome sensor? I was thinking of building a clear plastic  box big enough for me to put my hands and a camera in and then having an air purifier unit clean the air for a day or two, possibly using a brush or tape to make sure all dust is removed. 

I find it really tedius to repeatedly put camera back to gether to test for dust bunnies and want to get it as clean as possible.

[aluminumwelder]

I did it! Easily remove the cover glass of my 1100D t3 x50 DSLR

The technique is very simple.

I'd recommend putting some tape in the center portion only of the cover glass so when it cracks it wont' fall and brake any gold wires.

1. Place sensor in a shallow pan of distilled water to insulate it thermal from the heat. (not sure if this is really needed, but I did it anyways)

2. Get a piece of 1x1.25 inch aluminum tube with very flat cut and place it on top of the sensor, stuff some rockwool or other high temp insulation inside. Put a few ouches of metal weights on top so it does move.

3. Take propane torch and heat up aluminum tube, at the very top, heat will travel down. Carefull it will start melting the aluminum tube after about a minute!

4. glass with probably start to crack and come free. You can see this because along the edge the bond goes from dark black to a lighter color as the glue bond breaks and you see a sliver of an air gap.

5. If you have sections that did not break free then heat up a flat tip screwdriver or a chisel end till red hot and then touch the glued cover glass, it will release

you will have to gently use exacto chisel to get off cover, angle sensor so glass falls away from it.

pictures below In random order showing how easy it is, took ten minutes.

In hind sight I think a red hot chisel or screw driver would work just as well. I was really hoping to get the cover glass off without any breakage, but I think that is doubtfull.

I also read that soaking the sensor upside down in a very very 1mm thick layer of acetone for a week would loosen the bond, but I'm impatient and I think if done wrong the acetone would get on sensor and destroy it.

[aluminumwelder]

One photo above shows a paper towel , that is used to drain the water out of the pan, capillary action will just suck the water right out, you deffinetely dont' want to get water inside. This sensor might not even work., it was from a water damaged camera, just did it for practice.

[russellhq]

I'm not sure if you found this video in your search, but this is a video I took showing how I removed the glass. I tried this with 2 sensors, worked both times without breaking the glass, sensors were also functional afterwards:

[Stub Mandrel]

The sensor chips will be capable of coping with the heat from a reflow oven that melts the solder (very quickly)

A hot air gun might be less likely to melt the solder and require less waving around (although one is capable of melting solder).

[aluminumwelder]

russellhq Thanks for the video. I will try my  method again using the square aluminum tube. Honestly I heated it too long, around a minute. It was not my intention to melt the tube at 660C, maybe the sensor is fried, maybe insulation protected it, but essentially our methods are the same trying to evently heat the glass only , next time I will only do about 15 seconds and then check. I'm waiting for some 99.9% ISApotting epoxy, and magnifier lenses to arrive before I try my first attempt at removing the CFA.  I can't believe I read all this thread, skipping over most of the sotware and cooling comments.

Anyone have a mono DSLR that can record video they want to sell? I'm just going to use this for UV portrait work so sensor doesnt' need to be perfectly flat and can have some issues. I suppose I should just mail in a camera to Hypercams and pay the $500 US dollars to modify it, but given that 1200d/T5 only cost $200 in the USA, I think trying to DIY first is worth the risk.

[Gina]

I'm trying to remember without trudging through thousands of posts but didn't we decide covering the fine gold wires with epoxy resin was NOT a good idea in the long run?

[Davey-T]

Think it placed stress on the wires as it dried / shrunk ?

Could you print a shield ?

Dave

Edited December 6, 2015 by Davey-T

[Gina]

Yes, that was what I thought.  And yes, I think it would be quite possible to print a shield   I used the frame for the filters with filters removed some of the time, I recall, but still managed to stray underneath and break the wires   End of sensor!  I think when I next attack a sensor I'll not worry too much about getting right up to the edge - the resolution will still be pretty good without coaxing the maximum size of debayered sensor. 

A shield that can be applied without risking touching the wires is the objective.  Also I think the shield wants to go down to the sensor and not leave a gap like you get with the filter frame.  I'll look into this - I have a few dud sensors that I can play with.  I'd better do it while I have the high resolution UP Plus 2 3D printer working as I don't know how long I can nures this little printer along.

[aluminumwelder]

the jury is still out, some had success with epoxy and others had failures, probably because everyone used different epoxies, there's no way to draw a scientific conclusion with varying testing methods. 

[Gina]

Done some measurements as accurately as possible using my digital calipers :-

1. Image area height = 14.5mm 
2. Gold wires are 16.5mm apart
3. Filter frame height = 17mm

I can see how I caught the gold wires using the filter frame   Insufficient protection.  The minimum layer height on the UP printer is 0.15mm so I think I should be able to produce a shield with 0.5mm - 1mm wide wall where the gold wires are.

Here are rough cross-sections of the sensor with gold wires, pads and blue border.  The second shows how I envisage the shield in cross-section placed on the sensor (coloured green).  As shown the wall thickness is 1mm.  I would arrange the outside of the shield to fit into the frame.

Edited December 6, 2015 by Gina

[russellhq]

Aluminiumwelder, I can't help thinking that your method would work better if there was an aluminium plate attached to the bottom of the tube to increase the heat transfer area.

[aluminumwelder]

It might, but for most all you need is a piece of metal about 1x1" in size and gas stove. Heat up metal rod (do NOT get it red hot which is 600C that is wayy to hot) and then slowly move over sensor till the glue seal pops.  too many people have accidently fried their sensor putting blow torch directly on to it.
 

For those of you that want to search this thread on google put in your search term and then the thread address example below:

epoxy removal site:http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/166334-debayering-a-dslrs-bayer-matrix/

note you will have to scroll down the results and click on the link  to show omitted results
 

[Gina]

I'm printing some test shields for debayering.  I've decided to start off with the filter frame and fit the shield into that.  Nearly got the shield right - I think it needs to go perhaps half a mm deeper to touch the sensor.  The UP Plus 2 printer is giving better results than I can show with my 1100D general photography camera with kit lens - I shall have to dig out my USB microcsope.  I'll probably want that for debayering anyway.  I have the printer set to 0.15mm layer height and "Fine" printing.

Here are a couple of photos and the later design in the UP software.

[Gina]

The current shield design makes access to the sensor for debayering a bit difficult so I'm wondering if I can chamfer the sides back and still retain sufficient rigidity.  I'm going to try anyway

Edited December 7, 2015 by Gina

[RobRob]

Hi Gina, you might want to sell these to gain back a little cash to buy more DSLR sensors!!!

[Gina]

It's alright, slightly flexible but fine when clipped into the filter frame.  Much better sensor access than the previous design.  A lot of the shield is only 0.5mm thick.  All the blue edges and the gold wires are totally protected and the shield itself is clear of the gold wires

Edited December 7, 2015 by Gina

[aluminumwelder]

I'll buy a few of those!!! seriously just tell me where to send the $$$$. that is awesome!

[Gina]

I guess I could put things on ebay   I'll give it some thought

[Gina]

I have two or three 1100Ds and a couple of 450Ds which will be available shortly for playing with.  The 450D is slightly lower spec but, as I recall, I had more success with removing the cover glass and debayering.  It lacks live view and top end electronic gain (ISO settings) but I reckon it should be quite satisfactory for NB imaging.  I intend to get this set up on a more logical and scientific basis than my previous attempts - taking more time and doing more planning.  I have fewer distractions now so I think the prospects of success should be greater

[Davey-T]

My 450d has live view ?

Dave

[Gina]

I must be mistaken then

[Gina]

Just been through My Content by Topic Only and listed most of my threads relating to debayering and cooling of DSLRs.  I'll go through these and sift out relelevant info.  I'm hoping this will be easier than going through this enormous thread

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/217967-canon-dslr-debayered-with-added-cooling-filter-wheel-and-oag-in-one-unit/
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/219364-cooled-dslr-with-oag-for-osc-use-with-sw-esprit-80ed/
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/215471-1100d-debayered-with-added-cooling-filter-wheel-and-oag-in-one-unit/
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/194790-adding-cooling-and-filter-wheel-to-a-debayered-1100d-mono-dslr/
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/194131-cooling-various-models-of-canon-dslrs/
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/198147-dslrs-for-widefield-imaging/
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/194781-debayering-an-1100d-sensor-removing-colour-filter-array/:********************
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/192357-debayered-and-cooled-1100d/*************
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/171415-1100d-set-point-cooling-with-peltier-tec-and-air-cooling-v3/
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/163185-dslr-cooling-cold-finger-with-air-cooled-tec-working-version/
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/138943-peltier-cooling-of-1100d-sensor-chip/
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/157627-air-cooled-tec-with-cold-finger-dslr-cooling/
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/153604-working-1100d-cold-finger-sensor-cooling-with-tecs-and-water-cooling/
http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/146756-1100d-cold-finger-sensor-cooling-with-tec-and-water-cooling/
 

Edited December 8, 2015 by Gina

[Gina]

This seerms to be the only thread relevant to debayering.  But I don't remember what happened to the debayered sensor.   Anyway, it give me some thoughts for my next venture into debayering