Debayering a DSLR's Bayer matrix.

[Stub Mandrel]

Has anyone in this thread got an unwanted LP1 filter that could be retro-fitted into my Canon D10 to save me from bloated stars?

[Weierstrass]

@ Stub Mandrel: I've got a spare LP1 filter from a 1000D. If it fits your camera and you want it, feel free to PM me.

@ Everyone: I tried to debayer a faulty Canon 1000D today… All went pretty smooth, but I think I made ONE scratch a little bit too deep. Result: when I take a picture I get a picture with RGB values (0,0,0) or (1,1,1) everywhere. Around the corners sometimes (2,2,2). Damn it 

[Stub Mandrel]

@ Stub Mandrel: I've got a spare LP1 filter from a 1000D. If it fits your camera and you want it, feel free to PM me.

Thanks, you have a PM<, though its shame to benefit from your misfortune.

[Weierstrass]

NP!

By the way, if anyone would like to see how I removed the glass that protected my 1000D sensor, or if anyone would like to get a feeling for the 'texture' of the CFA layer : See my last three uploads on https://www.youtube.com/user/BongboBongbong/videos.

[Larsen9000]

I think is broken.

[fling]

I just converted a Lumix GF1 to full spectrum at the second attempt but in the process fried the first GF1

So I decided to dissect the sensor and debayer it

The glass is held on by a ring of rubber/silicon glue around the edge of the sensor plate, this comes off with a razor blade under the glass gently cutting the glue

I tried several solvents for removing the bayer layer from alcohol to toilet cleaner

Finally I tried medicinal compound and it comes off in seconds, perhaps too quick as I'm not sure how far down I went but I was rubbing reasonably hard - don't try this at home

I was able to get to the gold layer easy with gentle rubbing

see pic which shows the various layers, doesn't show up well in the pic but there is a red, green, gold and silver set of layers

Would you guys recommed to use Lumix GF1 for my first debayering? Was it successfull for you, billhinge?

[AlastairW]

What a fantastic thread, which I've been following for some time now. I've had a 350d sitting around for a while, feeling sorry for itself, so I thought I'd treat it to a CFA removal. Thought it'd be helpful to share my experience.

I performed the standard IR/UV removal on the 350 as a start, which went very smoothly (apart from the  pain of desoldering the protection plate). Disassembly of the sensor itself was fairly easy. I didn't find removing the glass in front of the sensor too hard. I placed some insulating tape on the glass itself in case of an 'incident' while removing it to avoid any glass shards dropping on the sensor. I then gently slid an old style razor blade under the edge of the glass and it came off in one piece.

On to the microlens and CFA removal. I'd decided to use the sharpened edge of a 00 paint brush for removal. The microlens layer came off very easily and took about 10 mins. The CFA is a lot tougher though. I had to start off the CFA removal with a flat head screwdriver (exerting very little pressure), just to get a tiny score in the CFA. Once the score was made, the paint brush end did the trick but it took ages (about 1.5hrs) to fully remove the CFA.

This is the final result once I reassembled the camera. The whole operation took approx 5 hrs. I also used a cheapo USB microsope to check the sensor. I found this very useful as it clearly showed me the layers I was removing.

[Gina]

Well done - good effort

[AlastairW]

Thanks Gina   Thanks to you and all the other contributors on this thread. 

[Gina]

I won the auction for the 1100D with possible faulty shutter for a total of £50 so shortly I expect to be back in the debayering business

[RAC]

What a fantastic thread, which I've been following for some time now. I've had a 350d sitting around for a while, feeling sorry for itself, so I thought I'd treat it to a CFA removal. Thought it'd be helpful to share my experience.

I performed the standard IR/UV removal on the 350 as a start, which went very smoothly (apart from the  pain of desoldering the protection plate). Disassembly of the sensor itself was fairly easy. I didn't find removing the glass in front of the sensor too hard. I placed some insulating tape on the glass itself in case of an 'incident' while removing it to avoid any glass shards dropping on the sensor. I then gently slid an old style razor blade under the edge of the glass and it came off in one piece.

On to the microlens and CFA removal. I'd decided to use the sharpened edge of a 00 paint brush for removal. The microlens layer came off very easily and took about 10 mins. The CFA is a lot tougher though. I had to start off the CFA removal with a flat head screwdriver (exerting very little pressure), just to get a tiny score in the CFA. Once the score was made, the paint brush end did the trick but it took ages (about 1.5hrs) to fully remove the CFA.

This is the final result once I reassembled the camera. The whole operation took approx 5 hrs. I also used a cheapo USB microsope to check the sensor. I found this very useful as it clearly showed me the layers I was removing.

Good job. Now get out and use it! Good to see someone not killing their camera lol.

[RobRob]

well done Alistair! Indeed now use it and show us what it is capable of...

[Gina]

I've won another ebay auction for a non-working 1100D   Both due to arrive next Thursday.  I feel more confident that I might be successful now as I have no distractions

[Gina]

One of the non-working 1100Ds arrived this afternoon - the one with the faulty shutter.  Much earlier than estimated (Thursday)    Looking at it I can see that the shutter is not right - one blade is not flat.  It may be just caught up - I've had that before and fixed it but it doesn't matter as I have one or two spare shutter units anyway.

[AlastairW]

well done Alistair! Indeed now use it and show us what it is capable of...

Good job. Now get out and use it! Good to see someone not killing their camera lol.

Cheers guys. Been eagerly awaiting some clear spells to test. Suppose with the UK cloud coverage at least we get to experiment and have time to complete these projects :-)

[saac]

I've won another ebay auction for a non-working 1100D   Both due to arrive next Thursday.  I feel more confident that I might be successful now as I have no distractions

Gina just out of interest, when it says "non working" in an advert, what is the minimum level of "serviceability" that you are looking for in ordered to make it a worthwhile proposition?  Am I right in thinking that you need something where the sensor itself is functional together with electronics that control the shutter etc.  Does the ebay advert give you enough info to buy with confidence? I've probably phrased this in a cak-handed  way  - I guess what I'm really asking is, how do you avoid buying a non working camera that will ultimately be no good to you even if you are successful in debayering the sensor?

Jim

[Gina]

It is possible that the sensor could be duff and that's something I just risk.  As for other parts, it's unlikely that two cameras will have the same fault and also I have a number of spare parts from previous abortive efforts at debayering so I should be able to make at least one working camera if the whole debayering process is successful.

[saac]

Ok so a functioning sensor is essential and that makes sense of course (I guess together with controlling electronics).   I must admit whenever I look over such adverts as in ebay I was always a bit unsure as often the descriptions as to what's wrong with the camera can be a bit vague.  At the end of the day if the price is reasonable I guess it can be viewed as a bit of a "punt" for an interesting project.  Good luck with this next one Gina, I'll follow your progress with interest.

Jim

[Gina]

Thank you Jim   Yes, that's right.

Edited November 19, 2015 by Gina

[Gina]

While we had a scheduled power cut this morning I decided to dismantle the 1100D with the shutter problem.  I stripped it down as far as the sensor which I meant I was able to see the shutter and as I suspected from seeing it from the other side (lbehind the mirror from the lens opening) it was caught up - I just touched the blade that was displaced, there was a click and the shutter returned to normal appearance.  I decided at this stage to put it all back together and see if it worked...  It did   Shutter apparently working quite normally.  I need to put an SD card in to be sure it's all working but all looks fine in preview mode - sensor is fine and shutter opens and closes.

Edited November 20, 2015 by Gina

[Gina]

The other 1100D has arrived now - with broken SD card connector (don't want SD card for astro use ) and otherwise it all seems to work.  Live view shows that the sensor is fine and the shutter works   Looks like I have two 1100Ds that are alright for astro use though I won't be absolutely sure until test from computer with low light. 

Now if I were to manage to buy yet another so called non-working 1100D that's astro capable AND then I succeed in debayering all three sensors I would have a triple imaging rig   Now is that optimism OR IS THAT OPTIMISM!!    Also, assuming that I don't damage something else in the astro conversions, of course

[Gina]

This is an example of a non-working camera that I wouldn't risk as the problem is said to be "The camera turns on but the pictures come out black" which is quite likely to a sensor problem.

Edited November 20, 2015 by Gina

[StuartJPP]

This is an example of a non-working camera that I wouldn't risk as the problem is said to be "The camera turns on but the pictures come out black" which is quite likely to a sensor problem.

I take it this would put you off as well Gina

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CANON-EOS-5D-MARK-II-21MP-DIGITAL-SLR-CAMERA-BODY-FAULTY-/201468724190?hash=item2ee878c3de:g:5JwAAOSwEgVWS0R3

[Gina]

Wow!!  What a wreck    You are right of course

[Gina]

I've been trying to get APT to work but it's such a long time since I used it that I can't remember exactly.  The software is working the camera and takes one exposure then reports "busy" and stops responding.  I mean the word "busy" not a spinning icon or hour-glass.  I seem to remember having this problem before but can't rmemeber the cause or how I cured it

Edited November 20, 2015 by Gina