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Nikon 3100


Mache

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Hi All :)

Does anyone know how much you would expect to pay for a second hand Nikon 3100?

Been looking at bodies only and don't want to be paying more than what I should.

Cheers

Mache

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If you're looking for one for Astro work I would advise you to go towards a Canon , either the 1000D or the 1100D for example.

Much better supported software wise with either the EOS Utilities package free from Canon or things like BackyardEOS or AstroPhotoTool (BYEOS ,APT)

The equivalent package from Nikon is not as good , and costs around £200 . . . !

Steve.

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I'll be using the camera for daily and astro in the near future. The 3100 on the bay are going 80£ cheaper than a new one that's not that long bought. Then there's a 1000d going for £220 but is 2 years old.

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Entirely up to you , I would still steer you towards the Canon.

Had my 1000D for 3 years now without a problem to report , most are on the market due to the urge to upgrade at every opportunity that appears to be the way these days . . . :rolleyes:

The Canon will also be considerably lighter than the equivalent Nikon , something to be considered when hanging it of the back of a scope . . .

Steve.

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I'll stand the ground for Nikon's. I use them all the time.

But I will agree that camera control software is better for Canon's.

I use a cheap hand controller to take my subs and that works very well for me without faffing around with yet more software.

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I have a Nikon D5100. I like it and I plan on using it for a while. Don't go for the cheapest alternative always as you might find yourself lacking in features. I have no problems in finding software to run the camera but I don't like not being able to lock the mirror and manually have to track time about 30 seconds is a drawback (although I hear you can easily solder your own trigger control and wire it to a PC).

In the end D3100 isn't a bad alternative for the price but you might find yourself looking at upgrades a lot sooner.

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Lock mirror = beginning exposure without the camera shaking from the mirror going up when beginning exposure. You can work around this by using the "hat trick". That is you hold your hat, or a dark piece of cardboard in front of the telescope when triggering exposure, and a fraction after having initiaded exposure you quickly remove the hat/cardboard. This means your camera wont pick up any of the residual vibrations from the mirror going up since there is no light to capture when you cover the telescope with something.

Keeping track of time = first of all I misspelled. I meant to say "above 30 seconds". In the case of my D5100 you have to manually use a remote or something to trigger shutter opening and shutter closure when you want to take pictures over 30 seconds in length. The camera have timer settings in increments up to 30 seconds but just "bulb" mode over that.

Hope this clears things up.

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Thanks for clearing that up mate, im sure it'll come to me in time when i experience these things a little more. Im very new to different camera setting and these tips ;) Im the type who just points and shoots, but now i want more detailed shots... why do i always pick the expensive hobbies! :D

There are few used D5100's out there ranging from 300-500, but to be honest its a little out of my budget. The 1100D seems 'the one', fairly up-to-date camera, will do most things i want it to do at a not a bad price. Plus i have a bit extra monies to go for a scope which i would of made my decision on the 20th at the star party.

Thanks again

Mache

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I would jump on that 1100D refurbished kit for 240 quid, thats a great buy! just ask around on here and you'll here only good things about the 1100D, very easy to use, light weight, great signal to noise ratio, and cheap for what your getting, I have loved using mine but I'm a bit precious over it and worried about knocking it etc, I feel more comfortable using old battered equipment which I don't have to worry about scratching etc. I also have a modded Canon 350D which is a fab camera, even lighter and cheaper you can pick then up for around 120-140 pounds, and even cheaper still you can pick up a Canon 300D for around 70 to 100, I've just picked up a 300D body only for 50 quid, just has a slighty dodgy battery door but works perfectly apart from that, I was out testing it on M45 the other night and it made me laugh how good the result were for 50 quid! I honestly don't think you can go too wrong on any budget if you do your homework, and as you can perhaps tell I too would recommend Canon, not just for the great software but also theres lots of guides out there if you decide to modify them for greater Ha sensitivity, and even Hypermodding with coolong systems to reduce noise.

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I have Nikon and Canon camera bodies for astro. Prefer the results from the Nikon for full spectrum imaging but have to admit the Canon software and third party support is way ahead of Nikon. I use a programmable cable release for the Nikon but USB to a laptop for the Canon (450D).

Tough call. If you're after clip in filters for LP etc then Canon is the way to go. Someone else mentioned weight but that can be balanced out...

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Out of very idle curiosity I looked up the weights.

The Canon 1100D, a feather weight, is it actually there 495 grams.

The Nikon 3100, a tripod bending over blown 505 grams.

Both with Batteries and card.

Am I missing something ?

Dave.

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Went and brought the 1100d ;)

Weight wise is nothing really with this 18-55 lens. Can hold the camera with one hand comfortably.

Quite happy with the price, just have to learn a lot though, don't have a clue in what any of the settings mean.

Anyone recommend a lens for countryside shots?

Cheers

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