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First Light Image with my new TS Boren F2.8 Newtonian


Catanonia

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Unless you have been on Mars for a week, you can't have failed to notice that I have sold my MN190 and replaced it with a Telescope Service style Boren Power Newtonian.

Note : This is not a true Boren PowerNewt, just a TS version using the same principles. I just wanted to make that clear :)

Unboxing and first visual reviews can be found on these two links

http://stargazerslounge.com/member-equipment-reviews/166261-boren-8inch-f2-8-newtonian-carbon-upgraded-model-review.html

http://stargazerslounge.com/member-equipment-reviews/166333-1st-light-boren-f2-8-a.html

Well tonight I managed to get some quick images in during the calm before the storm tonight.

Dodging the clouds, full moon, spots of rain I was determined to attach the F2.8 corrector to the QHY9 mono + 2 inch filter wheel and go for some quick unguided subs.

I picked the Capella region to see how it handled bright objects and faint and to see what the star colours were like as well as the flatness of the FOV with the corrector in place.

I only managed to get 3 lots of 5 second subs unbinned in between the rapidly moving clouds. The scope had barely time to cool down, focus was a quick effort to get it close and still not sure about my collimation or spacing from the CCD to the reducer. So much to be worked out, but I am impatient :( The Bahnitov mask I got delivered from Morris Engraving on the bay worked a treat :)

So here is a very quick process with NO flats, bias or darks. I am quite impressed how smooth it is for 5 seconds x 3 stack under full moon with no calibration.

LRGB with a quick process and crop by 80% in 3 x 5 second unbinned subs for each channel

For those interested, here is a single 5 second sub in luminance at a rough focus. No cropping, only levels.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10801850/Astro%20Pictures/Boren%20Scope/1st%20Image%20Test/LUM%205%20Seconds%20Single.jpg 5mb download.

So much to do

Distances to corrector to sort.

Balancing, scope wasn't balance, just banged it on the mount.

OAG to setup

Proper collimation

G2V colour calibration / timings.

Sort out the primary cooling, not used it yet

And I am sure there is more.

But I got my 1st image and so far, not too shabby.

Thanks, PS I am in love with the star spikes the newt gives. Never had a newt before :D

post-16631-133877703026_thumb.jpg

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That looks really cool... stars look pretty darn good already, without the list of things to do being done :-)

And thanks for the clarrification on it not being an actual Borren-Simon PowerNewt, I thought this was one of theirs sold through a European distributor... it's probably best NOT to call it that then otherwise if I was Harrel or Kfir I'd be a bit narked off at our names being used to describe a copycat product :-)

Can't wait to see some serious images from this!!!!

Ben

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The full JPG shows that it may not be 100% collimated (but I think you knew that) If you look in the bottom left of the full image you will see a little elongation - a couple of stars look like comets. I had the same issue with my GSO Newt (The Altair F4 version) and it was due to collimation shifting as the scope was moved from vertical to horizontal - give yours a try and see, collimate it on the mount horizontally then with the laser in place move the scope to vertical and see if the spot moves. If it does then have a look on my Blog to see how I silved it with a £3 tube of clear silicon!

The above all said though, for a quick setup it does look pretty good - could this be a Quattro beater? I suppose it's a lot more money though so maybe not...... The image does show that the scope has real potential though. Cant wait to see some long exposures with it.

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Steve, what did you order? the TS carbon newt and ASA corrector or the Boren carbon newt with corrector ?? the are much the same however 2 different products on the TS site..

This one mate

Boren-Simon 8' f/2,8 Astrograph - für CCD & DSLR Kameras - Carbon Tubus

Got it through Bern at Modern Astronomy, strongly recommend you go through him for UK support. Price is good too.

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The full JPG shows that it may not be 100% collimated (but I think you knew that) If you look in the bottom left of the full image you will see a little elongation - a couple of stars look like comets. I had the same issue with my GSO Newt (The Altair F4 version) and it was due to collimation shifting as the scope was moved from vertical to horizontal - give yours a try and see, collimate it on the mount horizontally then with the laser in place move the scope to vertical and see if the spot moves. If it does then have a look on my Blog to see how I silved it with a £3 tube of clear silicon!

The above all said though, for a quick setup it does look pretty good - could this be a Quattro beater? I suppose it's a lot more money though so maybe not...... The image does show that the scope has real potential though. Cant wait to see some long exposures with it.

Thanks,yes lots to be done and thanks for the link :) Did you remove the primary or just silicon with the mirror in place ?

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To answer the questions on Boren vs TS and naming. To be honest I have heard many stories of who's idea it was and loads of other stuff.

In my mind, this scope does not carry any of the Boren marks, didn't come from Boren in Isreal and so I will be from now on calling it the TS SuperNewt :)

To be honest, I am not fussed and therefore will just call it this to avoid hassle.

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You've got quite a bit of vignetting. Did you use a dew shield and if so is it an 8" one or a packed out 10"?

No dew shield, full moon, close collimation and no flats or darks applied. VERY quick DBE in PI, that may have enhanced it. One single 5 second unbinned luminance and the colour image is 3 x 5 seconds per channel LRGB.

Hopefully the Vignetting will go with flats.

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The star sizes at the edges look good Steve, but as Craig points out, the collimation is out quite a bit (stars bottom right out of focus, stars bottom left with tails) so that should sort out.

If you havent sorted the spacing then you might be able to sort out the worst of the vignetting, and flats will help of course.

The spider isn't quite parallel, that's why the spikes diverge like that, but that can be tricky to sort out, save for a rainy day!

Very keen to see how that reducer performs, thanks for posting the full size image :)

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The star sizes at the edges look good Steve, but as Craig points out, the collimation is out quite a bit (stars bottom right out of focus, stars bottom left with tails) so that should sort out.

If you havent sorted the spacing then you might be able to sort out the worst of the vignetting, and flats will help of course.

The spider isn't quite parallel, that's why the spikes diverge like that, but that can be tricky to sort out, save for a rainy day!

Very keen to see how that reducer performs, thanks for posting the full size image :)

Perfect response Tim and I thank you. I need to have another go at the collimation and see if I can fix this.

Would you say this Primary or more basic secondary alignment or is it too hard to tell as they are combined ?

EDIT : Wow good spot on the spider not being parallel, I assume you mean the spider bars are slightly twisted ?

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Hi

As said a little more work on the collimation and you should be somewhere near :)

There is a lot of flare from the bright star , is the sides of the secondry blackned as these fast newts pick up every bit of loose light :(

Harry

What is the best method for blackening the secondary edges? Take a Sharpy marker to it or something more sophisticated?

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Each spike is actually two overlaid ones. If the spider veins are not in a straight line then they wont overlap properly. Personally I am not sure I would mess with it too much, its very tricky to measure and correct, but very easy to make it worse! With narrowband images the spikes are less noticeable as it goes, and you can always use a star spike tool to touch them up!

It'd be well worth you investing in a Cats eye setup to make sure you get your collimation as tight as you can. Nothing else comes as close. The stars in the bottom right are a good example of why collimation has to be as good as you can, the slightest bit of tilt and the stars will lose focus on one part of the image. At f2.8 you have precious little room for manoeuvre where focus is concerned.

Longer images will show the effects up, stars will be bloaty, oval shaped, or have a flare on one side etc.

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Each spike is actually two overlaid ones. If the spider veins are not in a straight line then they wont overlap properly. Personally I am not sure I would mess with it too much, its very tricky to measure and correct, but very easy to make it worse! With narrowband images the spikes are less noticeable as it goes, and you can always use a star spike tool to touch them up!

It'd be well worth you investing in a Cats eye setup to make sure you get your collimation as tight as you can. Nothing else comes as close. The stars in the bottom right are a good example of why collimation has to be as good as you can, the slightest bit of tilt and the stars will lose focus on one part of the image. At f2.8 you have precious little room for manoeuvre where focus is concerned.

Longer images will show the effects up, stars will be bloaty, oval shaped, or have a flare on one side etc.

looked at tha cats eye web site and to be honest it was just confusing. What would you recommend as the bare essentials from the cats eye stuff ?

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