Robindonne

Where did you buy this mount if i may ask? In Europe?

Here a short list of mine to start off this probably ever growing thread. EdgeHd14 any 20” dobson and indeed a very nice high quality refractor, the one you mentioned fits that category. although this hobby has only attracted me for 3 years, I have already decided that I will not wait until my 70th birthday to buy my dream instruments. Save, save and save and ensure that the wish list is completed within 2 years. Im too young to know which beauties were made and stopped being produced, but im sure this post is going to be a encyclopedia filled with the worlds best astronomy instruments.

I think its time to move fedele. You’re growing out of that apartment. Nice progress you’re making

Naaais🤩. Have fun with it

Ha you see, the emotion can play a role

Yes. So every serious journey in an astrophotographers life will end in a reverse engineered choice. Which part of the sky do you prefer, which camera is going to be used to achieve that and what is your mount capable of moving around in a steady way. something keeps attracting me to a c11/edge hd. Perfect aperture, perfect length and weight. Easily transformable from f/10 to f/7 or f/2 Well known and probably free of design failures etc. Both visual and Ap friendly. isnt this close to the perfect instrument?

Yes thats what makes me wonder why and for what reason one prefers a model over the other, while someone else with the same goal prefers the other model. Except for the large newtonians. They are the easy choice for best bang for your bucks but impractical.

I still haven't taken a good dive into astrophotography. sold almost all my 8 inches of the above models with the idea of buying a good 11+ inch. but I catch myself that I actually have no idea which 11+ is the most appreciated type right now. In short, where do the models differ from each other? I understand that there are differences in height, weight and construction style. but are the final results really recognizable? can someone use a final photo to see with which type of mirror telescope the photos were taken? Does a cdk not have the same result as a coma corrected newtonian or a corrected sct (edge hd) of the same diameter. For example, I don't understand why someone would prefer a Sharpstar sca260 with a gigantic 5" central obstruction over another 10" or even 11" build that can be made to the same speed but does not have that gigantic central obstruction. Where are the differences that make one reflector more suitable than another? is it the sensor size that can be exposed or is it more emotion and feeling that makes someone choose a certain type? For refractors its made very clear A minimum of 3 elements of very good quality glass which is machined in a very fine quality will give a satisfying instrument. Or even better, is there a place on internet where the biggest differences are explained?

Yep thats it. I saw this ad and searched a bit online. Couldnt find it either. Nice buy. It must be that Tinsley as you mentioned

When you go for a TestFlight with that set, please wear a helmet

These Altair purple cameras win the camera color contest thats quietly playing in the background😍

Maybe a large factor is if a particular model is still made. Im not sure if the performance, compared to modern gear, qualifies a product as a classic.I see a lot of astronomy gear that really are classics. Brass/wood scopes which functions better as decoration than they are once made for. on the other hand, still made models designed long ago can also carry the name classic i guess. Searching through an online shop for “classic” probably gives plenty of new available items.

Isnt the term ED also used in triplets scopes/binos?

Ive lost faith in this project. Ill stick to my 120ed for reliable on-time photos

I think its basically a very expensive mount head. Just the head

Lets hope it doesnt get knocked accidentally in our direction😬

Not sure about your mount, but this issue is a bit common i guess. I had the same. I solved it by loosening the part of the mount which has the wormwheel in it. It had some room to adjust. I loosened the part and pushed the wormwheel a bit more into the worm. It solved the slow reactiontime as you described. when this black lid was loosened, the arm, including the slomo control (worm), came a bit loose. That way the worm ( behind the slomo knob) could be pushed to the worm wheel for a tighter connection.

For pre-orders they give away an ascom compatible cleaner

Interesting! I have for some months some items in my wishlist. Time to dive in this project is what keeps me from ordering. Last thing i remember was planning to stack two harmonic drives to get to a high resolution….. Time is an enemy😣. im going to follow the road of your project € 139,35 | Harmonische Drive CSF-25 Reducer Lager 20*85*18.5Mm Voor Csf CSG-25 Draaikrans Zengkun China https://a.aliexpress.com/_vTjDFw

Great news. Congrats

Wait till he finds out they sell dual-speed focusers🤫

Really a quarter of a small drop. You don’t want it on other parts

It should release when the grub screw is removed. Although sometimes the screw digs a small hole surrounded by some material pushed up thats preventing a smooth release. It might just be the case with your focuser?

For anyone trying to make one themselves, here’s the drawing:

I recently bought a used telescope with vixen style dovetail which doesn’t fit my vixen style clamp😬. The dovetail is too wide to get in, and the front and back are covered by a plate to prevent slipping out of the clamp. So cant use it. Strange size fluctuations in these bars😏