AstroMuni

I do have the ASI533 and you would probably need sub second exposures and 0 gain to take images in daylight. I would suggest trying with just the camera inside your house and point it at objects in the room and reduce exposure until you start seeing coloured shadows. You could try using the ASIcap app as it has an Auto exposure button.

As queried by @Elp why have you disregarded the 8" reflector? What model do you have? The quickest and possibly the least expensive way to start is attach a camera to the 8" and go from there.

Polaris is pretty much the only bright star visible to the naked eye in that region and through the polarscope. So you should be able to find it quite easily in the polarscope. Using the finderscope will not help much as this is not aligned to the mount but to the OTA, and having the additional weight of the scope etc.will make it harder to move the mount. I just point the mount using my eyes to judge that its roughly in the right direction. I then move the mount by hand to get Polaris in the polarscope. The fine alignment to match the clockface is done using the bolts. Once this is all done, I then attach the OTA, counterweights etc. HTH.

From what you have said it sounds like the Align (platesolve) after MF may have failed hence tracking didnt start. Have you read this https://www.stellarmate.com/support/ekos/mount/meridian-flip.html May help

I wanted to do the same when I purchased my Baader MPCC but then I realised that if I push the CC into the focuser tube, the tube no longer peeps out into the OTA when I achieve focus. So (if you havent already done so) check if this type of arrangement will help. EDIT: Looks like this is too late now 🙂 so good luck with your setup

This article should help https://satakagi.github.io/IR-imaging-of-galaxies-under-light-pollution/

This one from Antlia seems to have the uv/ir cut built in https://www.firstlightoptics.com/antlia-filters/antlia-triband-rgb-ultra-filter.html. Its on my bucket list to purchase as I have borrowed one in the past from a friend and it gives good results with nebulae & galaxies. I removed my UV/IR cut filter and replaced with the Antlia when I took the images. See my post on this topic HTH

They are allowing mounts from various vendors, and these use INDI drivers too so would that not breach the legality aspect?

Also take a look at the archives from this publication by @BinocularSky - it gives you a month by month list of objects to view https://binocularsky.com/newsletter_archive.php

Are you able to post a screenshot?

Awesome image esp for just 45mins

Is there a budget that you have in mind? For travel, you need a light weight one so I would have said something like the ZWO AM5 would be best (compared to the HEQ5). But for simple star tracking these may suffice https://www.firstlightoptics.com/star-tracker-astronomy-mounts.html. Some of them may even be able to sit on top of your existing tripod.

If you havent already, read this https://astrobiscuit.com/best-budget-telescope/ The scope mentioned by @Mal22 is mentioned here 🙂 along with some tips on type of mounting.

Well done. Wish my images were this impressive 😃

I think the siril scripts primarily cater to deep sky stacking. You might be able to edit them to make them work for planetary but as Elp says its best done manually. Alternately use Autostakkert or other tools to stack and then use Siril to post process.

Suggest focussing on a star first and then move to planet

If you let us know the exact model and make (or an image is even better) then we should be able to give you a definite answer. The Skywatcher mounts support Vixen style dovetails so if your scope already comes with one or has provision to add one then you are good to go.

1. Only connect via USB port. The ST4 port is an option to control (via the mount auto guide port), but if you are using a software such as PHD2 then USB is the preferred option. 2. I have the 120MM mini and a ASI533mc pro and I connect the USB cable from the 120mini to the spare USB port at the back of the ASI533 (remember to connect the external power cable to main camera otherwise it doesnt always work)

You have managed to capture a lovely image. There is a lot of detail in there and I'm sure experts in this group can tease it out. Here's my quick attempt using Siril.

This is a BOGOF deal for Black Friday. Beautiful !

@alacant your expertise is needed here 🙂

I dont think its down to file format, but more to do with precision. Jpeg is typically 8bit so you are limited to having a pixel value range between 0-255.

Where is the stacked version please? We just need the stacked version in Tif or FITS format, so you could even just upload it here

I took the liberty of quickly running the M45 image thro Siril and here is what I got. Donuts and all 🙂 But looks promising. You will need to get more data to bring out the nebulosity and reduce noise in background @Simone_DB

Thats a great shot. Suggestion - if you post the calibrated image before any histogram transformation etc. here, experts (definitely not me 🙂 ) in this group will be able to process the image and show you the art of the possible.