fifeskies

I open APT and align everything from there first . (remember to click mount control ON under the gear tab). Then when I open Stellarium it is all aligned perfectly, the Mount target exactly matching the platesolve result (with ASCOM/APT control you no longer use the Synscan app, the handset is disconnected)

This type of telescope (An SCT) , has quite a narrow view and is often used for small targets like planets. It will not show much unless you are close to the focus position. It would be best to try at night with a bright easy to find target so you can find the focus position , the moon is ideal for this. Attached is the size the moon will look using your 25mm plossl, but the moon is very small in the sky , (the yellow circle is the view in your viewfinder) Are you using a finder to get close to your target. As the view is so narrow unless you are in exactly the right spot you will miss the target which is why a finder is fairly important with this kind of scope (but you need to align finder and scope together) The blue circle shows the view through an average finder. Also your telescope is not designed to focus on close objects , to look for focus during the day try to find a far off target a few miles away , like a church steeple or hilltop If you have a GOTO mount you must polar align then do a star alignment before the GOTO will find your targets.

I use Stellarium and Ascom , but also integrate it with the free APT software (astrophotographytool). In APT you can platesolve from a guidecam or main cam , and then sync the mount to the platesolve solution. It is similar to doing a manual star alignment with a GOTO control. You dont mention if you are using any cameras , so this may not be of any help to you.

Very accurate Polar Align is only needed for astrophotography, though for visual don't neglect it , just don't waste time tweaking it. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.RapidoDroid.synscaninit2&hl=en_US&gl=US this app is handy if you have a polarscope and is free , mostly useful for skywatcher mounts the tiny bubble level in the mount may not be true level depends it it is fitted properly , a short external spirit level is good to confirm level. (it would help to know what telescope and what mount you have , these can be added into your digital signature and show below your posted messages)

So its the red one , the scale should (nominally) read the same as your latitude. I am 56 North so my scale reads 56 If you use a Polar align utility (like Sharpcap) , this will help you make the final fine adjustments to get it set perfectly. The scales are sometimes a bit rough and can read a few degrees out sometimes. Make sure the mount tripod or pier is set level before you add the head, a spirit level helps.

Just another photo of a piggyback guidescope to illustrate

You can fit guidescope rings to the top of the 72ED rings and piggyback your guidescope. Also allows far more accurate alignment between the two Depending on spacing you may need to fit a top rail above your scope rings

The "dew filter" is an extended tube that fits over the front of your telescope. From previous I see you have an SCT telescope. This prevents condensation settling on the front corrector plate which ruins the view when using your telescope outside at night. In our damp UK they are very important if you want to get as much viewing time as possible , and perhaps even a heated one depending on where you are observing from (ie is it a very damp site). They work very well which is why most refractors have quite long dew shields built in, and why heated bands are wrapped round the scope near the front. They are not usually needed for Newtonian types as the long OTA should protect the main mirror from dew settling (in theory... but it still can) They are easy to make DIY from thin cheap camping mat.

In order to use the GOTO you need to first polar align then you need to do a 1 , 2 , or 3 star alignment. This lets the GOTO orient the OTA itself to the mount position. A finder is needed for this unless you feel you can hit the alignment star by just looking along the tube and using a very wide eyepiece. A Telrad can be enough rather than a full finder (or a red dot finder). If you are starting from scratch consider a 50mm RACI finder if you feel a full finder is needed. This can then stay with you if you get a larger telescope. I think for a 130 size Newtonian OTA a Telrad or red dot will suffice and is easier for novice users.

I have received my copy of Aston's book "The Solar System". It is very well produced with lots of bright colourful photos inside. This is a properly printed quality item and I recommend it totally. For those who have not heard of Aston he is 8yo and fascinated by Astronomy , he also happens to have Autism , but is not letting this hold him back. He produced this book with a little help from his parents. https://www.astonsmith.me.uk/?fbclid=IwAR2uwy1DpBElXgNJndwM8EhG-wfqhSW4fbUtMS5Txy-wQ8Dd2DHiUnQEvTY?fbclid=IwAR2uwy1DpBElXgNJndwM8EhG-wfqhSW4fbUtMS5Txy-wQ8Dd2DHiUnQEvTY

I would seriously consider remounting ALL your electrical installation into a large weather proof insulated box , cables can exit via cable glands to your mount. You could use 12v low voltage connectors on the side for your astronomy equipment if you need the convenience of easy removal. Mains cables can enter via the bottom section of the box or the box can be mounted over where they come through the wall (so they enter via the back of the box.) A large box with a metal (earthed) backplate will provide adequate cooling. Something like this would suit

Bresser scopes are more expensive but you are more likely to get a good one with Bresser. The skywatchers can be just as good if you get a good one , but quality control from SW can be a bit erratic. Bresser and your SCT compared on Bodes galaxy , you gain a much wider view.

Both are good options Both are out of stock almost everywhere at the moment however, I think there are a few SW about , but the Bresser is unlikely to be in stock anywhere unless you are very lucky. Again , for that price you can get a much nicer 2nd hand ED, bought on here from a fellow amateur you will get almost new quality.

The f10 you are considering is fairly close in performance to your SCT. (I have guessed it might be a Skymax 127 for comparison.) It would be better to go for a shorter tube to get a much wider FOV , there will be slightly more CA with this of course but not enough to be an issue in my opinion especially with wider DSO targets. I have added a photo showing your existing SCT in orange , the f10 you mentioned in green , and a f5 tube scope in blue. I would suggest the wider field is a better second scope. For photography the f5 will allow shorter exposure times as well. Consider obtaining a second hand ED scope instead , much better performance for a similar price (and available , new scopes are like hens teeth at the moment) A good 80mm ED is a great photography scope. Quality of image even for visual makes the ED worth the extra effort to obtain. Shown for Pleiades with a 10mm eyepiece.

As per rusted comments , it is not ideal to have your power supply mains connectors exposed , while RCD protected you are potentially in a wet environment so there is still some shock risk. You may even get a startle jump if you touch it in the dark before the RCD trips out and knock over your telescope 😱 It would be fairly easy to get a sheet of aluminium , bend over the top edge to both prevent access to the live terminals and serve as a drip deflector for the power supply. This could easily be fixed onto the perforated sheet to sit above the PSU with some long bolts , still allowing plenty ventilation.

When you message in the message section don't do any "return" . Just write it as a long single line , I had the same problem until I got this pointer on another forum. Worked after that for me. Good to see so many supporting Aston , actually looking forward to seeing my copy of his book.

I did try try the Canon DSLR fix for Sharpcap , and although it did connect and take frames the software always froze on me , so reverted to my guidecam.

I find my Equinox 80 (which is very similar to the current Skywatcher ED80DS pro) to be a very nice imaging scope. I use a Televue 0.8 reducer with it. I had been considering a Zenithstar 81 when the Equinox came up for sale 2nd hand , mine is fitted with a rather nice Moonlite focuser which seems to be far superior to the stock focuser. The ED80pro is much more affordable than the WO model even budgeting for a moonlite upgrade., but you will struggle to find either in stock anywhere at the moment.

There is a good buy/sell section on here. (though you need to make a few more posts to gain access to be able to sell I think) Most telescopes are unavailable due to Covid supply issues at the moment which does restrict options just now and probably for a good while to come. You will be lucky to find a 6se or 8se anywhere in the UK for sale from a stockist. I use refractors for my imaging and have done some planets mainly Saturn and Jupiter (Mars a bit too). but it is nor my main interest so I will leave others to advise you on the best choice. (I try to image DSO most of the time).

I polar align with my guidescope and Sharpcap and it works fine. My main scope and guidescope are aligned together on a side by side mount. Nominally pointing at the same spot but I don't worry about exact alignment between them. (My guidescope is an ST80 so I get plenty stars) I do only have a ZWO290mm as my guide camera so the field of view is not large at 0.8 degrees by 0.45 degrees and Sharpcap advises a larger field to get enough stars. I think I manage to get away with the smaller FOV because my large guider aperture brings out many fainter stars for the software to be able to platesolve properly.

I made some self engaging pins to lock my roof. Hope its clear enough how they work I only use the wingbolts when its stormy , usually the locking pin is all I need to drop in place to stop the track moving, which means the pins cannot disengage. Has been storm tested over last winter and seems to be up to the job. 20191017_143618.mp4

Glad to hear you are back up and running. Just been reading your amazing thread about your self build scopes and mounts , seriously impressed. You have some incredible instruments under your belt, custom instruments have such a great look to them.

Some photos may help Bigger finders like the 60mm often are used piggyback style mounted on top of the tube rings

Do you have a DSLR camera you can connect. The much bigger sensor is perfect for letting kids see the easier and more satisfying targets Use APT to frame capture the image , even if you don't want to keep them. Moon is perfect for this just a quick 1/250th at ISO 800 to start with then adjust to suit your scope Some favourite DSO like M31 , Pleiades , Orion nebula (once its up a bit more later in winter). Its particularly good if its a visible object like Pleiades they can have pointed out to them while the camera is taking the exposure, then they get to see it on the screen in much more detail. Its a case of work out the setting for ISO and exposure time (start with iso800 and 90 sec then adjust from there) Very rapid result and viewable on the laptop screen right away. Planets are a tad more difficult but Jupiter and the 4 main moons are easy and the moons move round (well IO does at least) satsifyingly fast so kids can see the change day to day here is a single 90 sec frame of M31 from a 80mm scope at ISO800 in my DSLR (I find kids love to see a "proper" galaxy).

I too have ordered a copy this young man deserves all our support.