don4l

Here is a good starting point: http://www.sharplesscatalog.com/sharpless.aspx

Two hours is very little for this, so you have done very well indeed. I like the way you have controlled the stars.

If you are using Windows, then you should start by installing the Ascom platform and a driver for your mount. For planetarium software, I would recommend Cartes du Ciel https://www.ap-i.net/skychart/en/start Cartes du Ciel will talk to the Ascom driver as it is. Spend loads of time playing with Cartes du Ciel. It will grow with you.

Mine does. I don't think that I have ever had any problem with PHD2. I use it with both Ascom and Indi.

You have raised it up a whole level. It was good before, but that is a real improvement.

That's excellent. The bit that I find hardest is matching the backgrounds - and you have nailed that.

People say that pulseguiding is better. I've used both and I haven't noticed any difference. Pulseguiding will need one cable less, so is probably a bit simpler.

For a long time I have fancied capturing two comets in the same frame. Unfortunately, I didn't realise that these two were contenders until the camera had nearly warmed up at 2:30 am (on 8th Sept). So, please forgive the quality - (there are hot pixels and some black bits). The gif is 9 x 120s exposures, and spans about 20 minutes. Both comets were moving slowly. I'm very pleased that some tails are just about visible. The lower comet is 260P McNaught, and the upper one is C/2018 N2 (ASSAN).

I think that I'll give SRB a go. I ordered my last adapters from TS, but the shipping was €16. I've had another look at the camera and nosepiece, and I think that I need at least 8mm - so I'll go for a 10mm and have a bit spare.

It's interesting that you make that comment. I've just started using the Moravian 16200, and the data seems quite different to my old STL6303. Much less processing seems to be required. The images are cleaner, but also seem to be less contrasty. I haven't quite got my head around it yet, but I am liking the results so far.

I also think that Adam is absolutely correct. I upgraded to a Chroma OIII filter a year ago. I really was wasting my time on OIII before that. OIII is far more sensitive to light pollution and moonlight, so the narrow (3nm) bandwidth is more important than for Ha.

I have measured things up and I would prefer 8-10mm of thread. 6mm would probably work, but ..... I called SRB, and they quoted me a very reasonable price, but they are very busy at the moment, and it will take 3-4 weeks. I'm going to have a closer look tonight at my bits to try to figure out how 6mm would work.

Definitely use the modded camera. Use whichever lens you prefer. You will get a nice image either way. I don't know about the LPR filter. I would give it a go.

I've had a look at their website. At the moment, @whipdry's suggestion looks good - something off the shelf is less likely to be problematical. I'm going to measure up and have a close look tonight. I have a feeling that 6mm will be all I need.

If that thread goes the whole way through, then I would only need one of them! It's a pity that you cannot phone FLO.

I guess that Ekos communicates with EQMOD in the same way as CCDCiel. That should be a function of the Indi specifications. Patrick has recommended doing it "nearest point", so I tried it - and it works absolutely fine for me. If you are happy platesolving when you are near, or at your target, then I don't think that there is anything to lose by trying it.

Why didn't I think of that? As it happens, I bought the camera from them. I also ended up exchanging e-mails with the owner. I'll send him ane-mail in the morning. I'll report back. Thank you!

This is to image at F8 on the Tak. I'm not sure that I will do it very often, so it seems a bit silly to spend too much. My plans for longer focal length are up in the air at the moment. I used a Tal200 earlier in the spring, and I got on much better with it than I expected. However, I do need to do a bit more playing around before I settle on anything.

If that T2 extender was available as M54, then I would be in business! I'm already resigned to needing two "bits". I've already got 6 (yes 6) 2" nosepieces, only one of which will ever be used in the future! This is madness! One of the nosepieces has an adapter to a male 42mm (T2?) thread. So, I will see if I can find a Female 42mm to Female 54mm adapter.

So close.... Unfortunately they are all male-female. I need F-F. You would think that it was easy.....

Do you sync the mount after you platesolve? After a meridian flip I am always well out - often about 2 degrees. A quick platesolve and mount sync sorts everything out. There is an option in the Indi EQMOD settings to use just one alignment point. This is recommended by Patrick Chevally who produced the Indi EQMOD driver. (Forgive my arrows - I don't know how to do proper ones)

That's beautiful.

What scope did you use? Imaging at that scale is impressive.

I'm trying to get a 2" nosepiece onto the front of my camera. I currently have a M54 x 0.75 male thread on the face of the camera. I also have an old 2" nosepiece which also has a m54 male thread. So I'm looking for a M54 x 0.75 Female - Female adapter ( or a threaded tube might be a simpler description). I cannot find it anywhere on the internet. Does anyone know where I can find one? A 2" nosepiece with a female thread would do, but I cannot find that either. I'm hoping that someone will tell me that my internet searching skills are lacking!!!

Lovely image. I like what you have done with the blue. It gives it some depth - makes it a bit more 3d.