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About hornedreaper33

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    Vancouver, BC, Canada
  1. hornedreaper33

    Dual Speed Focuser

    Correct @Fraunhoffer. My plan is to make a big top hat shaped piece that will bolt on in the same place as the stock focus assembly. The speed reducer is in the post and I'm going away for 10 days but as soon as it's made i'll post pictures.
  2. hornedreaper33

    M42, Second attempt.

    Thanks for the tip @ollypenrice. It didn't cross my mind that there would be backlash in the focus assembly.
  3. hornedreaper33

    Dual Speed Focuser

    There is a nice anodise orange plate held in by three M3 CSK screws that holds the bearing assembly in on the stock focus assembly. I'll just turn the body of my dual speed focuser to make use of what's already there
  4. hornedreaper33

    adding a dual-speed focus wheel/knob

    Hey bud, see the other thread I posted on the topic: We're building up some nice info on there. The mechanism seems to be called a Vernier Reduction Drive, although that name wont yield much on google. Here is an example: https://www.mainline-group.com/products/4511-6-1-1-4-ball-drive-made-by-jackson-bros-new Only place I found a 10:1 was at: http://www.orenelliottproducts.com/purchase-planetary-reduction-drive Shipping is pretty pricey there though. 6:1 should be more than adequate. Good luck.
  5. hornedreaper33

    Dual Speed Focuser

    @Chriske, Thank you so much for the images. Unfortunately the C8 is very different and will require an adaptor to take it from the 0.5" focus shaft on the OTA to the 0.25" hole in the speed reducer. No matter, we have a lathe at work, I just wanted to see how you did it. I will watch the installation video from the Feathertouch website and see how they did it. @John, I appreciate they work very well but $350 is a bit steep. The reducer has cost $40 when all was said and done with shipping.
  6. hornedreaper33

    Dual Speed Focuser

    I was having trouble following it while I was typing haha. I'll try again, sorry. How does your DIY focuser attach to the actual focus assembly on the telescope? From this view it looks like there isn't much room to get an allen key in, to tighten a grub screw. For reference, when I pull the rubber knob off my C8 SCT, there is a 13mm (ish) diameter shaft.
  7. hornedreaper33

    Dual Speed Focuser

    I've ordered the stamped 6:1. The shipping from Oren Elliot was ridiculous. What is your preferred interface between the focus shaft/screw on the OTA and the focuser assembly?
  8. hornedreaper33

    Dual Speed Focuser

    @Gina, my searches lead me to believe that's exactly what they're for. God bless the radio hobbyists. @Chriske, I have seen those images popping up on Google. Thank you so much for sharing. I think I was hung up on the fact that people said they were getting the parts for a lot cheaper. I wonder if this is what Starlight Instruments are using or if they are making their own? Either way I think I shall be ordering soon and get myself a dual speed focus knob for a fraction of the price of the Feathertouch. I may even push the boat out and get it anodised
  9. hornedreaper33

    Dual Speed Focuser

    Hey @Chriske, thanks for the reply. If you could get a link for me please, that would be awesome. I have found these guys: http://www.orenelliottproducts.com/purchase-planetary-reduction-drive While they appear to be higher quality and available in 10:1, they are a bit more expensive.
  10. hornedreaper33

    Dual Speed Focuser

    Hey all, Last Friday afternoon at work I turned myself a larger diameter (57mm) focus knob that clamps onto the existing focus shaft on my C8 SCT with a grub screw. It was a great success. I found myself looking at it over the weekend thinking about making myself a dual speed focus control. Has anyone on here tried to replicate something like the Starlight Instruments Feathertouch? I have been lead to believe they use planetary balls rather than gears to reduce backlash. I have found some small planetary gearsets which will do the job but has anyone seen a supplier of planetary ball sets? Another problem with the gears is that I can only get 4:1 in 35mm diameter and 6:1 in 57mm diameter. I guess I could have two sets in series but that would increase the backlash (insert other problems I have yet to think of). Anywho, if there are any people out there who have experience in DIY'ing one of these, I would appreciate the input. Clear skies.
  11. hornedreaper33

    M42, Second attempt.

    Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I had a look at the collimation last night, it was very slightly out. So very slightly that I could barely tell that it was off centre. I had a tweak of the screws and got it centred (as far as I could tell). Transparency was bad and the telescope was pretty warm so I'll have to check it again when we have some clear skies. As it's Friday and I have a workshop at my disposal, I think I will be making a large focus knob today. Probably knock together some of bob's knobs when I get the chance as that seems like a great upgrade. I'll avoid it for now as it requires completely screwing (ha!) the collimation to replace the screws. I did however, order a Bahtinov mask. Hopefully with the big focus knob, the mask and the Bahtinov mask focus mode on BYEOS, I can get some pin sharp stars. Thanks for all the suggestions!
  12. hornedreaper33

    M42, Second attempt.

    I had planned on getting the feather touch micro focusser from Starlight Instruments but as you say, they're pricey. I was watching a video on how to install them and noticed I can pull the rubber knob off the focus shaft! I will turn down a bit of aluminium at work to aid focus until I can afford the proper kit! Collimation had been mentioned by someone else too. Unfortunately, I forgot to check it. Plan to simply look at a bright star out of focus and aim for concentric rings.
  13. hornedreaper33

    M42, Second attempt.

    Thank you @Demonperformer. I was thinking of trying shorter subs next time as I was clearly having issues with alignment and focus. I guess starting out with an f10 scope isn't ideal either. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding focus? The C8 has the standard focus adjuster assembly and I simply watched the FWHM readout in BYEOS. I found there was a dead spot where I could change the focus slightly and the FWHM wouldn't change. I assume this was due to the fact that it was about as good as it was going to get. Is the bast way to get to that point and then start taking sample shots?
  14. hornedreaper33

    M42, Second attempt.

    After a frustrating Monday night where everything went wrong, I managed a hassle free night last night. Polar alignment was better, laptop was connected and focus was as good as I could get with the coarse focus on my C8 SCT and BYEOS. 15 x 90s Lights @ISO800, 20 darks, 20 bais and 20 flats. I could not get DSS to stack the images. After doing a bit of reading I think it was because my focus and alignment weren't perfect. I manged to get them stacked in Sequator but as far as I can tell it only uses darks and flats. Anywho, with a little tickling in Gimp, this is what I ended up with. One question, when you see the images with the pink nebula stretching off in all directions, is this created by longer exposures or is that a narrow band filter?
  15. hornedreaper33

    M42 - second attempt

    Thanks for the link @feilimb. We have cold temperatures and a couple of clear nights coming up so hopefully I can get some good data.

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