michael.h.f.wilkinson

Replacing the board is probably the best option. Apart from the issue of replacing surface mounted components, finding out which one is at fault can be a real problem, if you do not have the precise schematic of the board. As a rule of thumb, it is often, but not always the power components that burn out before anything else (and in that case damage may well be detectable, visually or by smell), but any active component can suddenly give up the ghost without any outward sign of problems. It is also quite likely that some components are so-called ASICs (application specific integrated circuits) custom made for this application, and therefore hard to source. Replacing the board is the safest and quite likely most cost-effective option.

A faint tail might indicate Hyakutake, which had a long, faint tail, whereas the tail of Hale-Bopp was very bright indeed. Hyakutake was only around for a few days or perhaps just over a week as a naked eye object, however. Hale Bopp was around for quite a while

Hale-Bopp was superb, but Hyakutake, earlier in 1996 was naked eye as well, but for a much shorter time.

Very nice first go. Apart from getting an ASI178MM, which is ideal for this kind of imaging, I would have a look at some tips for processing here:

Very nice indeed. The C8 is great for this kind of stuff, I find

Slooh is indeed one of the best options I can think of. I watched the last transit of Venus on Slooh with the kids, as we were clouded out here. The previous transit of Venus I captured on film I posted a very rough video of the last transit of Mercury in Ca-K here:

As I do the math, only at F/10 does the difference between parabolic and spherical 130mm mirrors become acceptable (roughly 0.22 wave). At F/ 6.9 this is not yet the case. The difference in curvature as shown in the Ronchi test would be minimal, however. The Faucoult test is a lot more sensitive

Having two counterweights instead of one heavier one also makes the mount more versatile. I use just one counterweight on my Vixen Great Polaris when using the APM 80mm F/6, but two with the C8 and planetary camera set-up, and even three if I add the big finder scope for visual DSO hunting.

Nice set of images. No luck here, alas

Looks very nice indeed

Here it is: It is not a very expensive item; I got it for €199

Just to add a shot with the focuser extended (not fully) I also like the thread that allows more stable attachment of imaging gear.

It is an improved Crayford, with steel bearing surfaces (like a Baader Steeltrack). All R&P refractor focusers I could find were too long.

I just received a new focuser for my APM 80 mm triplet, to replace the standard Crayford. The Crayford was OK, but a bit too long to let my cameras come to focus with the 0.6x focal reducer. The new one can handle a much larger load (5 kg), and is 25 mm shorter. It really feels better made than the old one. It also allows easy attachment of a motor focus unit. My filter-switch diagonal should now also reach focus with the new set-up. I will now see if I can adapt the old one to the ST80. As expected, clouds, wind, and rain accompany the arrival of the focuser.

Nice set of images. I did spot the moon yesterday, between heavy rain squalls, but it was hiding behind the trees from my garden

These sound really interesting. Especially the fact that they are not stopped down makes them a great alternative for the old BA-1 crowd

OK, this just doesn't seem to reach infinity focus with the DSLR 😕. I have just found a replacement focuser which is 20 mm shorter, and can handle double the payload. It is even priced €36 off, so ordering it was inevitable, I suppose, especially when you have just sold an item of your kit which covers the cost. Resisting temptation? I've heard of it. Doesn't seem to happen much around here, these days 😜

Snapped up a 0.6x focal reducer from ABS-UK. It has just arrived with just a few marks on the tube (as advertised) but optically perfect. This will transform my APM 80 mm F/6 triplet into an F/3.6. It should still cover the chip of my Canon EOS 550D, but allow faster, wider-field imaging. I also want to use it with the ASI183MC for deep sky. It might not be cooled, but should beat my previous combo of Canon EOS 550D, APM 80 mm F/6 with 0.8x focal reducer (so F/4.8, effectively). Unusually, the forecast for Sunday night is clear. Fingers crossed.

This is my take: I used APP and GIMP

Single shot with my Canon EOS 80D and 100-400 mm F/4.5-5.6 L IS zoom, at F/5.6, 1/160s ISO 800. RAW file converted to TIFF and contrast stretched a bit in PIPP, converted to JPG in GIMP, no further processing. I took more shots in RAW but somehow stacking isn't working yet.

Couldn't spot it in my Lunt SUNoculars.

Just got the Coronado SolarMax-II 60 mm out for a quick solar tea break, and lo and behold, an AR is showing around the four o'clock position. Off band, a few sunspots showed, and on-band several swirls of dark filaments and bright plage showed around them. A small prom was visible at the 8 o'clock position. Great to see some stuff on the surface FINALLY.

I have found I could always pick out the granular, filamentary texture of the chromosphere once the scope is well tuned, even when it is as quiet as it is now. The rusted ITF will affect this. The discussion here just made me check my Coronado BF15, but that seems to be fine.

I use mine on a home-made P-mount that works a treat. Didn't cost me anything near as much as the Paragon Plus. Some pics can be found here:

Very nice result. I would also opt for ditching the EP and reducer. On a full-frame camera, the focal length on the 6SE is short enough to fit the whole disk onto the chip (would even work with my Celestron C8)