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About Marky1973

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    Sub Dwarf
  • Birthday 07/08/73

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  1. Yeah, it is the one I have used for a couple of tries, and it seems to work very well indeed - I think you have seen the bubble and Pacman images I did with them on my webpage. I do need to use it more, but i definitely think it was worth the money - even if I just continue with some mono narrowband for a while.
  2. I do this with Google Remote Desktop - works really well....and made manual focusing a much less frustrating problem! :-)
  3. I like the second one too! Have you got access to Photoshop? You can get hold of the plug in HLVG (Hasta La Vista Green) which coudl help with the slightly green cast over the images. If I remember rightly it is free....which, unfortunately, PS isn't! :-) Great stuff for 20 second exposures too!
  4. Yep....and as my other hobby is writing....
  5. Yep, been doing the same here Peter - although we have a forecast clear night tomorrow - first for two weeks.....and I'm not going to be around to take advantage! Typical!
  6. Hi Costas - click on the weblink in my signature and it will take you there! Or you can cheat with this link! :-) It is very basic though and you have to remember there is a wealth of possible ways to process the image once you have stacked it. I'm not an expert to be honest, but even if you increase noise, you will also be increasing the signal you collect. Its all about the signal-noise ratio and finding the best combination of exposure length and ISO to get the best of both worlds. Many APers will suggest looking at the histogram of your exposure and aim for a combination of time and exposure that puts the peak of the histogram about 1/3 of the way across from the left! You can deal with noise through processing and use your calibration subs as well. I think noise is largely inevitable, especially with DSLRs. But if you up the iso, you may be able to drop the exposure time and, potential, the noise in the image. You can also help prevent hot pixels building up in your stacked subs if you dither your exposures, which just means the camera is moved very slightly between shots. Search for it on this site and there will be loads of stuff to help you with that. You could also try leaving longer between exposures to give you camera chance to cool down a bit! And remember, the running man is just that bit fainter than M42, which is a pretty bright target. There is a lot to think about! :-)
  7. Glue the Allen Key to your fingers....
  8. Have you tried upping the ISO to 800? Often a sweet spot for imagers - come do push to 1600 at times to try and get more, but you will, obviously, increase the noise potential. You can tweak things a bit in DSS to see what sort of image you might have lurking, but most people would not recommend using it for any sort of processing. I have a very absic DSS tutorial on my blog in my signature if you want to have a look. There is also an Orion image in the gallery which was taken with an unmodified Canon 1100D using 90second 800ISO subs.
  9. Well, I had another go and think this looks a lot better. Incremental steps and all that.....have the NewAstro Zone PS book on its way as well, so hopefully, with more and more practice, it will all start to come together. :-)
  10. Hi Alan, thanks for that, very helpful. Need to develop my PS skills as I said above and learn to be a bit less aggressive with my processing! :-)
  11. Hi Alan Wow, thanks for having a look at that. I couldn't work out whether it was flat error or faint nebulosity which surrounds M81. Did you use the flats in this process? I am well aware I have a long way to go, but if you wouldn't mind sharing your workflow that would be great - just the overview of processes, wouldn't expect the full details....and only if you have time. Cheers Mark
  12. Yeah I think I may be looking at more remote working over the summer this year. Thank you! I was very happy with the bubble, especially without any calibration frames - the bonus of Ha for these targets can't be underestimated! I got the 7nm Ha filter from FLO Have found that some spikes appear naturally on larger stars but the Bubble was in Photoshop using Noel Carboni's astro tool set Which is great value for what you get - although I am only scratching the surface with PS at the moment....the problem with the bubble though is that some bright areas in the actual bubble were picked up as stars, so got a few I didn't really want! Hope to get out a bit more with the Ha filter this year again!
  13. Yeah that's why I am thinking of a (cheap) 9.25 as well....for those nights when the moon is out or I just can't be bothered with dragging EVERYTHING out of the house... don't want to spend a fortune as I know it will be a once in a while thing.....but do miss looking at the planets and moon!
  14. I'm developing a love-hate relationship with PI but, at the moment, I know that the shortcomings are due to my knowledge/experience rather than the software! As for the coloured stars, I presume there is some colour there, but I think I ramped the saturation up a bit more than was necessary - there is a setting in the RGB combination to boost it and I did that first time around as I was worried the image didn't look very colourful as it was....will try it without next time. I haven't got to grips with denoising just yet, but getting better with masks, so will be working on those processes as well....I may have said in other threads that i am not a very patient person often, just because the time I get on AP is so limited, but I am learning to try and be a bit more relaxed about it all....just ordered a copy of The NewAstro Zone System for Astro Imaging as that was recommended by Sara (Swag 72) for getting to grips with Photoshop and, as I have the license, I might as well work out how to use that properly as well! I/we will get there in the end, so good luck! (I'm also tempted to join you in the C8 EDGE-HD world....although I am also still tempted by a C9.25.....)
  15. Definitely worth comparing, especially with the "difficult" background on this image....but it is so much less of a pain to do that with the smaller files from the ATIK than the RAW files from my DSLR...