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About Marky1973

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  1. Tim typed faster! šŸ˜€
  2. Is this one shot or a stack, Mike? Flat frames will help if you haven't taken them and Gradient X Terminator is a plug in for PS that works pretty well. Pixinsight has some tools that will help, but that obviously comes at a price. Not a star tools user, so can't help there I am afraid!
  3. Cheers Ollly - definitely been experimenting - even if only accidentally. And I think I definitely need to give more consideration to the histogram when I am imaging - being affected by Light Pollution 4 miles outside of Gloucester is something I have to deal with. Been binning 2x2 up to now, but think I might forego binning in my next effort and see how that compares to my efforts with Binning...It may just take me a few months.... :-) Does the histogram help track the effects of Skyglow, or is that more of an "expose and check" kind of thing? (although tomorrow and Saturday have clear forecasts....but I am not counting my chicken just yet...)
  4. I am a bit with the CMOS sensor, can you get the same quality of image with a similar total exposure length, just by using shorter subs, because the CMOS is, perhaps more sensitive/has lower read noise? This does make it an attractive prospect. I love my Atik but my last session was marred with losing every 3rd 600s sub due to cloud, at least with shorter subs, the damage would be lessened...if I am reading this right?
  5. I quite like being slow...I find rushing things just means I make mistakes more quickly.... :-)
  6. Okay, I haven't asked a stupid question for a while so here goes.... In my forays into LRGB imaging I have been exploring different ways of collecting the straight imaging with, for example, 1 hour of Lum with 1 Hour each of RGB or, as another random example, 6 hours of lum and 1.25 hours each of RGB binned 2x2...all theoretically correct so far...I hope.... But, I've just been blindly imaging DSOs with, say 10 minute exposures for the LUM, and the RGB, without much though about the effects of the filters...a couple of nights ago I started collecting some data on M51 and have about 3 hours of Lum so far. I exposed to 1/3 of the Histogram in Artemis. If I was just following my usual pattern, I would be setting up for RGB and imaging at 10 minute subs again for either the full duration, or 1/4 of the time if binning. I'm doing this wrong aren't I? I should be finding the right exposure time for each filter to expose to 1/3 of the histogram and then build that up to the requisite time. So, if the RED Channel needs just 5 minutes to expose to a third, for an Hour of 10 minute Lum subs, I would need 12 Red Subs or 3 or 4 if I was binning 2x2? Am I thinking this through right? I haven't been too happy with the colour balance in my images to date and this feels like ti might be contributing to my problems. My foot is poised to start kicking myself.....
  7. Not used it much, but another vote for Fits Liberator - lots of info and easy to use
  8. M51

    Nice image John! This was my target last night ad it is one of my favourites....wanted to go all out this year and get loads of data....shame one in 3 images were getting shafted by clouds last night! Still, always next year! ;-) (Or the weekend if the forecast holds!)
  9. I feel your pain, had so few opportunities so far this year. Time is tight at the best of times, but we do seem to have been having a really bad run of cloudy nights in the UK! Enjoy the break and we look forward to hearing your reports! :-)
  10. Amazing!
  11. Yep, that's bang on Ronin. I do a two star alignment, adjusting each star to centre as described. Then I slew to a brightish star that is close to my intended target (imaging), centre it and then press and hold ESC for about two seconds and the mount sets that as the point from which to slew to the target, based on the previous alignment data. If you are slewing to a target that is not far from that star, I find it usually very accurate. in so far as the target is always on the chip. Once practiced, alignment can be done in a couple of minutes, but it does rely on a good polar alignment which can take a bit longer.
  12. Hi Neil - my basic (and I mean BASIC) is that the L channel, being sensitive to all light, will get you more detail than the RGB channels - so whether you are binning or not, layering the combined RGB channels onto the L channel will result in a better, more detailed image....I've yet to actually prove that to myself, but I'm getting there! :-) Would be interesting to hear the more knowledgeable members' explanations!
  13. I didn't.... it's a lovely beast, all shiny and sparkly....and stuck indoors because of this weather... but wouldn't be if it wasn't for the sale....a great saving on the price! :-)
  14. Just wanted to note some great service from Juan at Cheapastrophotography. I bought a modded EOS 100D from him a while back and recently sold it on via SGL. There were a few issues with the camera that were explained in the advert, but which the buyer needed some help with. We contacted Juan for some information regarding the faults and he helped identify the potentials issues and offered solutions that went above and beyond the call of usual customer services. If I am ever in the market for a modded DSLR in the future, Juan will be first choice without at doubt.
  15. Just another thumbs up for the usual excellent service from FLO. Ordered a C9.25 yesterday morning and it is currently sat at home waiting to be ogled over. As ever, the absolute best price and service, and Steve has been incredibly helpful with info and won't be the last time I place an order! Already looking at accessories!