spillage

Whilst I agree to some extent that relying on software to do the work for can at times cause more issues than it solves I do think using platesolving was a pinnacle moment for me. It means that I can just load up a previous image or choose a new target and let the thing get on with it. Normally within a few minutes I am on target ready to start imaging leaving me more time to try and sort out the other problems I have. @ollypenrice I can only dream of owning kit like a mesu but I guess with all the star mapping and permanent set up your mount will take you to a target from a list of targets and be very precise without really needing to platesolve. With something like the neq6 or kit you need to set up every night things can be a bit more difficult and time consuming.

I usually set mine between 2-2.5s but will make small adjustments as and when I think its needed. If my guiding gets worse I just move it back. I usually get 0.6 on average. I tend to rely more on the target in PHD2 and use this to check for any balance issues or cable snags. Sky condition on the night will also make a huge difference.

This is wip and I still need to sort out the awful shaped stars. Although there are no calibration frames and I just stacked the lights. Ha 20 x 240 O 10 x 240 Ha, Ha/0 (30/70%), O Quattro 8" Quick run through startools and a little with Gimp. I am still running tonight but thought I would process some of the frames just to see what its like. Although I do need to upgrade my monitor so just hope its not that bad on others. Really open to any input to improve. Cheers.

I have never really thought about this but it does remind me that I should get my second mount set up. Would you really need to worry about this? I only ask because I would just fire up all the software platesolve form the home position and then run a slew to my target and my thinking is that this would be sufficient. I may be completely wrong though.

I would say that if you are really interesting in the hobby and have the funds then go straight for a mono ccd. Having moved from a dslr to ccd I found that using the ccd was a totally new experience and felt like I was starting again in may ways. My experience with the dslr helped with setting up the mount, tracking and processing images to some extent.

@Doug64 If you are imaging from only one location you could always upload the .fits and have one of us open it in sgp to get the median value for you.

@symmetal That spreadsheet is really really useful and I have been looking for something similar for ages as my experience with excel and maths is not the best. Would you be prepared to upload the spread sheet or at least this should maybe go into a new thread and be made a sticky by the mods.

Its been a while but I am sure when you load the image you click the tools tab and choose pixel aid.

I always struggled with the PHD drift routine and never felt I was 100% happy with my efforts. I do not have sharpcap as I picked up the qhy polemaster for a bargain price. This I am sure works in the same way as sharpcap and takes me 5 mins and seems to have noticeably improved my tracking. I guess for speed and ease I would use sharpcap and when I had the time run a really long drift in PHD.

I think you might be right that the cable is the cause. I am sure that it is the cooling process that needs to be controlled so you do not shock the sensor but cooling should be okay...I may be wrong.

I do not want to hijack the thread but would you say high gain lower exposure times or lower gain and longer exposure times? I understand that being able to take more exposures at a shorter time allows for tracking and being able to be more ruthless deleting poor lights. If I can manage another late night and the sky is clear I will have another play around tonight.

Im in the position as @eshy76 and only last night did I go out and try different gain settings. I am not sure why but the tables on the CN forum suggest you can do over 20 mins broadband at 300 but my images were over exposed at 10 mins so I guess I either need to lower gain or decrease exposure times?. I am probably wrong but I have found that the longer you can expose for the smoother the image will be. I sure @vlaiv uses a 1600 and is a genius when it comes to the maths but I must admit I get a bit lost with it all.

depending on your storage facilities it may be worth getting the cement that is in the plastic bags rather than the paper ones. I have left the ones in plastic outside for months and it has been fine to use.

If you already have you pier then you can use a bit of ply wood as a template. Mark up and drill out the holes in the ply so it matches the pier then bolt the rods to the ply. Sink this down into the concrete up to the ply us a level to make sure its all level and then just remove the top nuts take away the board and your studs should be in the right place and level.

You can also use square washers held by a couple of nuts and just add as many as you need.

If you are really worried about rust you can always paint a load of this over the metal bar when finished https://www.toolstation.com/rust-converter/p43408 . I will help keep the rust a bay.

I just about got mine all inside four (large) patio slabs. The removable frame is a bit of an eyesore but saves me having to strip down the gear every time.

sorry no as it now all underground and cover with patio slabs and I did not take photos as I it was being constructed. I am sure I did 800 x 800 x 500 but the borer went down another 650 in each corner.

Table top and four legs (actually five legs).

When I dug out my pier base I essentially dug out a table shape with the extra hole in the middle for the pier. This meant that I had the stability but did not have to remove as much dirt. I did however use a 6" hole borer. Brandon hire do them for about £35 a day.

Now I am on the works pc I must say the bottom one does look much better. I really think you will never get a perfect answer due to discrepancies in monitors. I guess I just get my images to look the best I can on my kit and just have to accept that others may not like the results.

+1 Plus more detail nearer the core.

I sometimes find in cdc that from the home position I have to make sure I choose a star that is no to far away and start to center and sync until I have enough stars mapped to give me descent accuracy. TBH platesolving take all the hassle and time wasted away.

From what I can gather you want to be able to project an image on a fairly large screen for the kids. This would normally mean using a laptop screen that can be placed at a distance from the mount. What camera are you using to capture the images? Software such as APT would be really helpful. Are you going to be using you equipment in a remote site or from home. I always found that using a dummy battery for a dslr really helped as especially during the colder weather batteries seem to run out very quickly. You may also want to consider a eqdirect cable if you keep using your laptop and do away with the handset. cheers,

Here is a link to the instructions.