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spillage

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Everything posted by spillage

  1. ups This one is okay and cheap. Only has 15-20 min runtime. Should be able to get a discount code as well.
  2. I think maybe this got a bit mixed up as I do not think I ever mentioned anything about back focus to the sensor, only retaining the full movement of the original length of the focus tube. I guess if I ever come to sell it then I have not made any alterations that will effect its use from as new. If that makes sense.
  3. May I am being stupid. My cc connects to the T2 ring, the T2 ring has not being moved doing this as the cc sits inside the T2 ring and this sits on the focus tube. I am sure that I have not need to drastically move the focus by using the cc. I guess I have the baader so maybe this is why? I would like to add that yes my was is more difficulty then just taking a bit from the bottom of the tube but you do ensure that if you do remove too much then you still have a fully functional tube. I have a second hand 150pds where the previous owner butchered the tube.
  4. Sorry not really sure how using a comma corrector has anything to do with the focus tube entering the light path.
  5. Please do not chop of a bit from the end of the focus tube as if you change your camera this can cause issue. You can remove a square front and back leaving the sides of the tube intact to still enable you to get full movement from the focuser. I will post up an image tomorrow when I find it.
  6. Have you tried to cut out a circle the same diameter of the scope, fold in half and half again and just cut of the tip of this. Place it over you scope and make sure the centre screw of the secondary is central. I would also recheck that the secondary is central to the focuser using you collimation cap. Your last image to me shows some veins (top) seem a bit bent???
  7. I would suggest using the nikon t2 with a 2" nose adaptor, I think you are too far out with the 1 1/4".
  8. I always leave everything set up and never move it. Also I am slightly lazy. I have to do collimation so will do the flats afterwards.
  9. @Adam J Thanks for the info. I have just seen your reply to my other post as I was not sure where the problem was with my images. I did not process this until last night (images gathered on Wednesday) when I realized I only had flats for the 150 and did not have time to get any 130 flats I just used what I had. I did think that as long as nothing is moved or changed in the image train then you can reuse flats. If I get time this evening I will re-do my collimation and run off some flats. Cheers Spill.
  10. NGC6992. Taken with my 500d, It is looking like collimation is out and so heavily cropped. No darks just lights, bias, flats. Flats were from my 150pds as I have not got round to sorting out ones for the 130. 20 x 300 iso800 DSS and just Startools, no gimp or photoshop. Room for improvement and needs more lights.
  11. I run eqmod through my computer which allows me to use phd2 for guiding. Guiding can be done with a converted finderscope or something like a st80 or a off-axis guider (oag) This has a guide cam which is attached to the pc and phd2 then keeps the mount in position using a star by sending instruction to the mount motors. hth Spill.
  12. I had the eq5 pro with a 6" c6-n and d1100 without a guide scope. If you are imaging galaxies then you may get 300 subs but you will get star trails so will need to be heavily cropped and you will have to dump allot of lights.
  13. Not sure if it would help but have you updated the handset to the latest firmware? Firstly I would try using cdc and see if this is an issue with stellarium or the handset.
  14. I have had my 130pds for several months now but last night was its first time out. Pretty poor effort and I think the mk111 cc needs adjusting. Obviously my processing skills need more than adjusting but hopefully in time....I just could not reduce 52 enough without loosing details in the nebula and of course I should have framed the target better but this was my first time on the witches broom.
  15. When I do this in apt I will always pointsolve (platesolve) from the park position first. This aligns the scope. Then choose the target and solve. I have never bothered to clear any data from eqmod and although sometime it can struggle to solve and throw a wobbly I normally have it ready to go in a few minutes. Once I get another clear night I will make a proper note of my routine in apt and post it up if that would help. I remember spending ages at first getting it to work (sorry getting my head to work it out) then just followed the manual like a robot without deciding I knew best and suddenly it worked like a dream.
  16. @red dwalf If you have a separate guide scope then only use your imaging camera or else the target will be off center or miles out. I take it you have the mount in the parked position but unparked and are then running a auto solve first? Then choosing your object and solve this. Been ill for the last week and I cannot remember the last time of started up my kit due to weather but this will help you. (when doing my alignment using blind solve I seem to always click the scope position to help speed things up). Cheers Spill.
  17. Quick fix on the connection. Those things have a huge amount of plastic around them. I would consider filling the top corner off a bit so it clears the forks. Although steppenwolf's lead looks the dogs....
  18. I'm sure that issue 2 is the draw tube obstructing the light path. Sorry can't help with the first issue as not yet using a mono.
  19. @Jez I really would suggest that you try out the obvious processing programs available. pixinsight and startools not sure about astroart. pixinsight is a 30 day trial and startools is unlimited but without the function to save the final image. Ask around and I am sure someone will be able to provide you with the data need to try processing. This will not only help you decide what software will suit you but also if you prefer mono or osc. You can then make you mind up using advice here and experience of using the end data. Of course the cost of each may also be a factor.
  20. You are not the only one in this dilemma. I have been using my canon dslr's for while now and would like to take the plunge into the money pit whirlpool of a dedicated camera. I think osd will be easier but I think after a while I would be wanting a mono and start to regret buying the osd. I also think to get the best out of it you will need a permanent pier for your mount to help go back on a different night to collect more data and just cannot see myself trying lrgb over several nights having to setup up polar align and take down every time. Although I must admit that I have given up at the moment with the dslr until my pier is complete.
  21. No not at as this would have been present in a stock unit and you are just clearing a path for the light and not actually moving parts. It also allows for you to use the scope for visual.
  22. Sorry it is a bit late but though I would post photos showing the focus tube improvement/upgrade to increase photon collection. I hope it helps. Cheers Spill
  23. If I get 5 mins I will post a photo of my focuser. I think a dremel type tool would make things easier.
  24. You can cut a wide slot out the the focus tube from front to back and this allows full movement of the focus tube and is less restrictive.
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