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Moonshane

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Everything posted by Moonshane

  1. LOL - rushing and posted in the wrong thread -but it is!
  2. wow just looked in white light and you can see why it's so active. the AR is very complex !
  3. That's one of best design features of the Steeltrack I think John.
  4. don't forget to check the collimation of the drawtube at most in and most out points.
  5. I forgot that my 102mm f7 has a Feathertouch focuser, albeit the FT upgrade which is a FT spindle and speed reducer but the Synta style drawtube etc. It's very smooth but has 'Moonlite lines' on he drawtube. I did wonder if I could get the FT bits and send to USA for adding to other FT parts but probably cheaper to just buy one.
  6. As a visual observer I fit in the whatever comes up first bracket. I have Moonlite and Baader Steeltrack and of the two I think on balance I prefer the Moonlite. I have never had any issues with either but there seems to be less fiddling required with the Moonlite and it's a tad smoother (softer touch). The Baader I had to tune ever so slightly. The one bane of the Moonlite is the apparently inevitable track lines on the drawtube, although they never seem to create any issues with smooth function. Given money no object, I'd buy new Feathertouch R&P as they are better again but for me Moonlite/Baader/Feathertouch are all fine and as I say whatever comes up used first is what I tend to go for. If buying new I think I'd still go for the Moonlite as costs are not that different.
  7. That said, I got a set of maxbrights, a few pairs of eyepieces and a couple of GPCs for the price of a new BF10 and I'm very glad I did!
  8. Basically you are looking through a bigger window. It's not quite the same but it's like comparing say a plossl with a BST with an ethos. There won't be a difference in the quality of view but I have been advised against changing my BF5 in my Coronado PST mod as the BF5 is based on various visual tests, sharper in binoviewers than the BF10 and BF15.
  9. A bit like OOUK trunnion blocks. curved radius one side flat face the other
  10. I think I'd carry on the curves theme and add curved wedges to the bearings so you can retain the full circular nature of the mirror box.
  11. Those clamps ooze quality. Build looking excellent and original too.
  12. It depends how much spare in focus you have This thread might help
  13. I'd recommend Baader Maxbrights. They are expensive new but come up used every now and then. Main reason is not better quality. They use the T2 connectivity which can shorten the light path substantially. I use mine with all my scopes from 102mm f7 to my 16" f4 dob
  14. It does unfortunately look like delamination of two layers in this filter. I suspect it could be readily replaced under warranty.
  15. Incredible mate. When you think back to your first WL shots a year or so ago........
  16. in all seriousness I think that's actually one of the reasons it doesn't matter as much as people seem to make out
  17. Seems like the need for 'matched' pairs is pretty much bunkum https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/258992-matched-ep-pairs-for-optimal-image-merge/ Among others. I'll report through a new thread in due course
  18. Good point buddy. My 25mm were both new from one source. Of the others all are the same style (I.e. pairs have the same nose inset) other than the 32mm which do not. not used any other than the 25/15s yet though. Will do a review when I have done maybe later on in the summer :0)
  19. My latest iteration. cannot use the 20mm and 11mm pairs as they will now be wrapped until my anniversary at the end of the month. just enough space for a pair of 8mm and a 9mm Delite. no money though now until crimbo unless I sell something I want to keep!
  20. I have seen them in my 102mm f7 frac and when doing a star test. As John says like three little bites out of the rings. I very slightly (maybe 2-3 degree rotation of the grub only) loosened one of the associated grubs and they disappeared. Not really checked since but looks well enough to me.
  21. I do also see a sliver of e.g. yellow on the limb but in truth if I centre the limb so it's on axis, it disappears. I don't see any when off axis in other areas though. Furthermore, the worst CA is seen when objects are low and this is not the fault of scope, rather the atmosphere as (I think) hinted at by Jules. To my mind there's absolutely no doubt that the 120ED is far superior to e.g. my old 120mm f8 Celestron OMNI XLT which showed a lot of CA on bright objects and is why I sold it. OK larger aperture and better skies always provides more detail but I do find my 120ED on my driven EQ5 is fast becoming my most used scope by a fair margin. Personally, I count myself lucky to have six wonderful scopes (and one likkle one) from 400mm to 60mm to use of which only one cannot be used at night and this provides a different experience whenever I want one. I also hope Jules will keep reviewing when he wants to as all opinions are valid. Not that this was a particularly negative review in truth but I found it difficult to post negative comments about an eyepiece which seems to have universal approval although I was referring to a specific type of use (binoviewing) to which they were not suitable in my eyes. I did though think it important to mention the issues I had.
  22. I genuinely think you'd be amazed at the views through binoviewers Jules. The moon is something else and planets some relaxing. Hopefully I'll have a chance to show you some day.
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