alacant

Unless the OP has the GSO or the ES coma corrector, the focus tube will intrude into the light path with a dslr attached. HTH

According to SkyWatcher, yes. In reality however, they need modifying before imaging if you want round stars. if you want a telescope to image out of the box, you're looking at a lot more financial investment;)

With a dslr attached, at focus with coma corrector or not, the focus tube will protrude into the light path and so cause irregularly shaped stars. The easiest remedy is to cut the end of the focus tube. a 20 minute job with a hacksaw. HTH

Hands on... OK : good : best Baader : SW 0.9 : GPU Cheers

Hi Yes, the gpu and the sw have the same prescription, differing only in the fixed flange on the latter. Cheers

Hi The effect is astigmatism and is common in the Baader cc. Centre field you're in focus. Left is due to inward focus error, right, outward focus error. Or vica versa. The in and out focus errors are because the camera's isn't held squarely in the light path. Even if it is, in my experience, there is still astigmatism. Astigmatism causes the 90º rotation of star elongation you are seeing toward lateral extremities and is also responsible for the uneven cross shape in the astigmatic stars. If you can't live with it and correction in software isn't acceptable, either the 2 element sw or the 4 element gpu or GSO ccs would fix it. You could also try substituting the secondary mirror or using a camera with a smaller sensor. HTH and good luck.

Hi Excellent shot. I don't think there's a one-app-fits-all solution to processing. FWIW, I gladly let my PI trial expire;) Cheers and keep at it.

hi everyone With darkness getting less and less and with all of the wow factor stuff in Sagittarius to have a go at, it's difficult justifying challenging targets like this. Tried a few frames with no filter; nebula barely there, even at 5 minutes. Then remembered someone posting about CLS filters for this type of nebula. Then, having fitted it, forgotten to reconnect the camera (DUH) and finally finding the dangling lead, I was already an hour down, an hour before the meridian and with only around 4 hours of good darkness left, but at least with a clearly visible albeit small circle centre frame. I really wish I'd had longer focus. At 750mm, the little reflector did its best, but i hate having to crop-enlarge as much as I hate tiny blobs in a sea of frame. Mystery as to why the CLS makes such a difference. I thought it was more use visually. Oh, and background not good. Thanks for looking and stay safe. 700d @ ISO800

Hi I had a go with a very mild stretch. There are some nice galaxies to be extracted:) I gave up on the colour. There is colour; maybe the debayer went wrong. Dunno... **EDIT. I aligned the histogram and removed some of the background noise. There's some colour coming through now which maybe stretchable...

Hi So I assume you're already monitoring the guiding and imaging apps over vnc or TeamViewer but that's not sufficient? Are you thinking of adding live view of the hardware too? Cheers

Hi No. The contract states that cloud cover begins immediately after the point at which you have just managed focus on your first star. HTH

Hi Depending upon the camera, you may not need one. This one is very good. This one is ok. Either of the former are IMHO better than this one. All will cover up to APS-c. There are a few others, but I've not had experience of them. These are my -hands on- opinions only. YMMV of course. Cheers and HTH

Hi The SW needs around 10mm more inward travel than the Baader. The Baader and gpu focus at about the same position as without glass, the GSO about 20mm further outward. It's strange that cc focus position isn't published anywhere; it's make or break unless you like telescope DIY. Best to go along to a club and try them. @Erling G-P you'd probably find that you'd be able to reach focus with the other ccs mentioned as they don't need any further inward travel. HTH

Hi. Best to get a set to cover all eventualities. Far cheaper than buying new glass. HTH.

Hi everyone I hardly ever look through telescopes but this was one of only a handful of targets I found worthwhile without using a camera. There's some amazing stuff in this area of the sky, making Cygnus look decidedly barren! Managed 12x5 minute frames before dawn stopped play. This is what StarTools decided it looks like. So far removed from my view through the telescope. Thanks for looking and stay safe. 700d @ ISO800

Hi Monochrome is preferred, but if you have other uses in mind, colour will work fine with your 50mm guide telescope. HTH

Hi We have both. Both work fine. EKOS/Kstars/phd2 under Ubuntu 18.04. HTH

Hi This one is very good. This one is ok but may not allow focus with your 150. Both the former have the edge (!) over this one. There are a few others but I've not had experience of them. These are my -hands on- opinions only. YMMV of course. We use 120mm, 120mm-mini and t7m guide cameras. All work fine. HTH

Hi Excellent effort. I wonder if a different app may bring out a little more of the galaxies. How about posting the fits/tif? Cheers

We use the 120mm and its -much cheaper- clone, the t7m, in oags on all telescopes up to 1200 mm focal length without problems. Both work fine under Linux using EKOS or PHD2 guiding. If the latter, I'd recommend the native PHD2 zwo driver. Never used qhy with guiding so can't tell if it's any better. Cheers and HTH

Hi How about a coma corrector for your 150 instead? That way you could get a guide camera and make a more serious start. The 80ed will take you quite a bit longer to get images of similar brighness and detail. Of the two alternatives, my choice would be the reflector anyway. Just my €0.02 but HTH

Hi I'm surprised at that. Maybe he changed camera? There's a noticeable difference in brightness even when moving from 80mm to 130mm. Cheers

We have several bashed around st80s and always someone wanting to borrow something to try alone at their location. I had a quick look to see if the mount was available separately, but it seems not. Any ideas otherwise? Cheers

Ahhgghh. As my better half will gladly verify, I just don't listen/read/pay-attention. Entirely my bad!

Hi You do, but it's grey. As you say, less noticeable. Put a cheap #8 yellow filter before it hits the sensor and lose the grey corresponding to the aberration. It should tighten the stars considerably. Great project you have going. As a victim of the €2000 ed80 route, I just love this hands on approach. Cheers.