alacant

With your DSLR, if you've a decent mount, good skies and a sheltered site, I'd go for the 250. We've an old blue tube 250 and a 150 at the same focal length. Much lighter, but you need a lot more time to get the same result with the latter. HTH

Hi The best advice I can give is the one that helped me the most. No amount of reading or on-line advice can replace sharing hands on experience with someone who knows what they're doing. Any astro club will get you started and you'll almost certainly meet someone with the gear you're thinking of acquiring. Cheers and good luck with the move. I think the desert skies will be superb no matter what you choose:)

Found them here. Between 30 and 70 minutes at the f3.67 -corrected- focus of the telescope. I think that's the one directly above the mirror in the light path.

Hi We may be able to help you better. Send a photo of the setup. Cheers

Hi Remember that by the time you get it modified, there won't be any astro darkness, so best to get the hang of it now; many of the targets ATM don't benefit from modifying the camera anyway. Cheers

+1. It's a re-badged 4-element gpu. A different beast to the 2 element ccs. You need a m48 t-ring to attach it to your camera and you're good to go. But any of the above mentioned ccs will work fine:) Cheers and HTH

Hi If you'll be observing whilst you're snapping, go to the darker site. Otherwise, I'd stay where you are; you'll get a lot more imaging done;) Just my €0.02. Cheers and HTH

Hi and thanks for your comment. Must be a great volume. Most seem quite small; you'd need to throw a lot of focal length at them. But hey, makes a change from the proliferation of elliptical galaxies. I found copies of his original plates with the 200" at Mount Palomar. Is that what you have in the book? It's amazing that we can get anywhere near with just a 10" telescope! I tried to get centre frame in negative for comparison. The stars are in the same place 54 years on! Does the book have the exposure details?

The sequence is the folder with your frames. Load it as the working directory then hit sequence, then registration. HTH

Try that first. Then try increasing red... Don't like it? Hit 'Reset' and go again. Toggle 'preview' to compare before and after. I'd leave colour until the end though. HTH

Hi Siril (it's open source) will do it with a choice of alignment methods. 2 files in the same folder e.g. astro1.fits and astro2.fits In Siril register, but do not stack, the two images. The registered images are saved with the same filename prefixed by r_ HTH

One of man methods: Colours -> Colour Balance:

It's looking good:) One simple method is to make the background the all same colour. Levels: Choose each channel in turn and set it to the same value. In this example I found that 0,5 did it but for your image it -almost certainly- will be different. HTH and keep at it. the more you experiment, the more second nature it will become:)

Hi everyone It's not easy smuggling a 10" Newtonian in daylight under lock-down, but following government protective guidelines, it made it without incurring fines. Or being shot by the army. This was supposed to be a leave-it-all-night-and-go-to-sleep session, but impatience got the better of me after I checked that the meridian flip had gone ok and then looked skyward. A nice bright milky way night so can't possibly stop on one target. Ended up with this and m4 and m104 too. Oh,and a spectacular display with Sagittarius' teapot bringing the planets with it in the early hours. But oh so bouncy stars, not good at 1200mm. But enough excuses, and with the saving grace that this cluster has proper shaped galaxies. Someone posted a shot of a non-boringly-elliptical galaxy in Bootes too a bit back, but I can't find it. That may well come next if I can find it. Anyone? Suggestions for galaxy capture/what you use/or WHY most welcome. Thanks for looking and keep safe. 700d on 250p @ ISO800

Keep it linked. Just try it anyway. You can always go back or start again:)

Increase Size X

Click on the duplicate layer. Filters - blur Most work. I think I used Gaussian.

Mmm. I'd be tempted to recommend you get it all talking to each other in daylight, connected, focused near infinity... May save you a few hairs! Cheers

Given another 5 minutes, so would StarTools LOL.

No. StarTools. PI would take several hours. (...runs for cover!) Cheers

Yes. Pass, I gave up on dss some time ago;) Anyway, here's what i came up with. I'm hopeless at colour but someone with decent eyes should be able to adjust it:

No. My bad. Looks like you'll have to start over, but it shouldn't take more than a few moments. I'll have a go...

Hi. Unfortunately AFAIK, the .tif doesn't store the gimp histrory.

Hi. In gimp use save as rather than export as. The .xcf created by gimp allows you to view the whole of your history and go back to before you applied the black level. Export to .tif only when you have done editing. Nice image with or without though. Maybe mask the core stars before bringing up the rest? If you can throw more focal length at it, even better; probably a lot cheaper than switching cameras! HTH

No, for the reasons you cite:) I think that with long exposures, it's not necessary. I don't see any difference with or without. Just one more thing to go wrong in the dark! Just my €0.02 Cheers