alacant

Hi Yes, the HR cc will increase the fl of the telescope so you'll be 'closer'. They either gloss over that information or omit it. There's a vague triangular pattern to the stars so assuming that you've nailed the collimation, try slackening the 6 screws holding the primary mirror to its cell. In the end however, the sw ds focuser is the weak link and no amount of tweaking will cope with a dslr and heavy cc combination. Loadsa ways forward though. I suppose it's a case of what is acceptable for you. Cheers and HTH

We recommended exactly that here! Cheers

<rant> I don't understand is why the posts are so close. Take away 2 from 3 and you'd still have adequate light for thieves to see what they were stealing. Ridiculous. </rant>

Hi We tamed a 450d a while back using Siril's dark optimisation algorithm. Here's the remove-banding cheat sheet. HTH

Hi everyone Finally balanced on three axes, the missing link was of course the €2 g-shaped yellow coloured clamp fitted north-east. Having suffered an 80ed's fat blue stars and focuser a few years ago, I assumed that those issues would have been fixed in the 72ed and indeed, the stars are a bit better... Nice to have a wide FOV though. ** ff detail and example images here. **EDIT found a much better balance arrangement. Still need the g-clamp though. DEC guiding now much happier.

2000/0/64 with 16 flat frames. HTH

Ah, ok. I thought that as the op posted in the imaging forum and asked a question about an image he'd posted, it was about imaging. I fully agree that it's much easier to take the camera out of the equation and simply scan for the the nebula using an eyepiece. I apologize for leading the post astray. Cheers

Hi. The planets look great. I don't think you're gonna get enough light for live view but try a higher ISO anyway. If you want to get good spikes, don't use a planet and take a sequence loop of say, 2s exposures, refocus between each frame. Blue stars work best. Vega is good ATM. HTH

Hi It maybe cheaper to get a ready built solid tube 130;)

Hi Siril works with sequences; ideal for calibrating and stacking. It doesn't matter how the sequence is prepared, nor what filenames are used. You or -more likely- your image capture software decides. A good one to use is the target suffixed with an integer e.g. capture1: m42_001.fits capture2: m42_002.fits etc. Most image capture software does this anyway, along with a mesmerising choice of other prefixes... The only requirements Siril has regarding a sequence is that it is contained within the current working directory and it consists of fits files. The sequence doesn't need to be consecutive. The default sequence prefixes are: pp- (pre-processed) r- (registered) The default suffix for a stacked sequence is, 'stacked'. Cheers and HTH

You need to use the conversion tab? For 4 files? Surely you can make your own sequence! Anyway...

No! Put the 4 files in a folder and set that folder as the working directory. Now hit 'sequence'. That's it!

Look at the fits header, or just do them in order... You just stacked luminance. Call it file1.fit You just stacked red. Call it file2.fit etc... No need to use the conversion... Cheers.

Hi. There are only 4 files. Perhaps quicker just to rename them. file1.fit, file2.fit... Cheers

No, but get the nebula in the field of view and stretch the image, you'll then see it. Cheers

Hi The bright star is Vega. Alas, no ring nebula:(

Hi I think it better to have the defaults ultra-safe. Otherwise you could end up doing €xk's worth of damage as the camera hits the mount. 'But no-one told me, m'lud!' With a long tube, it could be just minutes before before collision occurs. The first two or three flips you do, probably best to be in attendance. Or have a few dry runs in daytime using a planetarium app. Cheers

Hi Not quite sure of your process, but it looks similar if not identical to... Put the LRGB in 4 separate folders. Pre-process and register each folder separately. Stack each separately. Now put the LRGB stacks into a new folder. Set that as the new working directory and register but do not stack them. You can now layer into PS or whatever else. HTH

Mmm. Is this the telescope? I'm wondering if it will hold a dslr without either distorting the extension rods or the eyepiece support... The good news is that it looks to have adjustment to be able to place the secondary nearer or further away from the eyepiece. I think this is one of the adjustments you're missing. HTH

Hi Set the meridian limits. HTH

Yes.

Hi Phew, now there's a wide choice! Is this two different telescopes or two the same? How about this and this? Or, if the latter, two of these. Cheers and HTH

Hi everyone Slowly adapting to using a refractor, but what a struggle. Almost there. I think. Sorted out the 3 axis balance. The telescope now stays put no matter where you point it. WIP: the ff distance. the tsflat2 needs 128mm, shoulder to sensor. Allowing for a uvir filter we made it about 130mm, but forgot to put the filter DUH! Maybe with the filter in place, the stars will finally succumb... Anyway, hoping this may save someone the hours needed to work it all out... But OMG, it's slow! This is 90 minutes and over 4 hours respectively. Thanks for looking and any 72ed owners, do chirp up:)

Hi I don't think so. We regularly image with our 700d sensor well over 30º. Best not to use dark frames with a 600d, but unless your processing skills are at the rocket scientist level, essentiall to take flat and bias frames. Dither between frames would also help enormously. The last thing to do before you stack is to remove any bad frames (cloud, trailed stars ets.) then, before you process, be sure to trim the edges of the stack to remove edge artefacts; there always are some. Cheers and clear skies

Hi As others have said. Flat frames. - Trim the edges of the stack before you process it. Make sure there are no edge artefacts. - Use bias and dither instead of dark frames. That should fix it. HTH