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TareqPhoto last won the day on November 20 2018

TareqPhoto had the most liked content!

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About TareqPhoto

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    Proto Star

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    Ajman, U.A.E.
  1. Ok, i received a quotation from Moonlite few days ago, the price is definitely high, expensive, but it is the full package, including the motor drive, so maybe this is the best thing i should do, in my LP red zone i really need to minimize a lot of issues, focusing is one of them, so i can focus on fixing another issues, i can't and will never handle to go out every night then i have to deal with 4-6 issues all at once, i don't have a permanent observatory, so i try to minimize issues and then i can enjoy doing imaging more.
  2. I know FLO and i bought from them since 2017 without issues, great store r vendor. I just not sure if this focuser in particular is good enough, i mean i am using Meade Newtonian, and many recommend to go with either FeatherTouch focuser or Moonlite focuser because of high quality and i know they are pricey, it is just if this SW version focuser can be used with an autofocuser somewhere with temp control then i will get it, otherwise i will feel it won't do the job much in all conditions or situations mainly when temp is changing, and also i am not sure about its load handling and no flexture, i am using a mono cooled camera with filter wheel connected to corrector which as going inside the focuser anyway.
  3. Hi again, Just very simple question, what do you suggest or recommend as a focuser for 8" F5 Newtonian? i heave Meade brand, and definitely i want to change the focuser sooner or later, so i want to see what do you recommend and i hope it can be transformed or adding autofocuser for it, and NOT FeatherTouch due to price.
  4. Hi John. I use a mono astro cooled camera, and i use a filter wheel, inside this filter wheel i installed or put those following filters: L R G B Ha OIII SI RGB are for colors, L is for details and i don't know what else, it is UV/IR cut filter mainly, Ha and OIII and SII are mostly or mainly for some DSO targets, nebulae, so if you have a mono camera then you must have filters to produce colors, RGB or even Ha OIII SII for hubble palette fake colors.
  5. Have long time to experiment and see, i am happy so far to where i reached, can improve more later hopefully.
  6. Thank you very much for your great post. In fact i think i mix or mistaking guiding with flexure, so anytime if i see the elongated or bloated stars then i thought it was because of long exposure unguided, but i think even if i guide it will have same problem, and you just mentioned that guiding will affect the whole frames and stars and not part of it, so i need to play more in that issue. Also i did take few data at 3-5 minutes subs and i can see that stars are start trailing even in the center of the image, means now it is an effect of unguided, but coma or curvature aren't a fault of guiding then, correct? I don't know which is worse, guided results with bloated stars or unguided with trailing starts all over even if it is coma/field corrected? i have 2 completely different scopes, one is ST80 but it is now almost replaced with Canon lens [prime] and 8" F5 Newtonian, each has different characteristics, and sounds that Newt is having so much flexure, no wonder because it has bad focuser, the stock one, and i asked somewhere else about which focuser i can use with it, the Newt itself is so cheap i bought it as a BRAND NEW for $200, was very lucky, but i don't mind to buy a quality focuser for it, but until now i am not sure which guiding method or system i should go with thise scope of 200/1000 really.
  7. I want to ask an additional question, i bought QHY5L-II-M as my guiding camera in the past, because affordable, but because i do planetary i bought more cameras, including 290mm and 174mm, now should i use one of those instead of QHY5L or i just stay with QHY camera and keep ZWO mono for planetary only? i know i can use them all for guiding, it is just i don't want to keep swapping or use one camera for everything or many tasks that may affect its quality and durability maybe, it is more about which one can do the job better that's all.
  8. Honestly speaking, i should just go back to use my Astrodon Ha filter, it is the only filter of NB i have at 1.25", while my full set of LRGB and NB not Astrodon is 36mm size, so maybe as you said i better go back with only one filter, after all i need to use something, i can't test balance and everything without any filters so i can't get anything then, the test should be on a target rather than a wall or star, it is about guiding that i worry about more than what i have to do before i start, collimation i am sure i will figure it out, i just always off mood or feeling that i hate to carry my 8" Newt all the time on and off only for tests, so i decided when i feel that i will use only this Newt then i will spend maybe full week figuring it out, but if i will use smaller scopes or a lens then balancing and PA isn't a problem, so with that i NEED to test guiding on a target and see if it is good enough, and i think many targets need at least one filter, and guiding i needed for long exposures, not for short exposures, so it means i should use NB filter to make it happen for a real test. Once i am done successfully i will let you know, after all the results will speak by itself i hope.
  9. And this is my first test ever with my 8" F5 Newtonian, unguided, i don't remember what was exposure time, maybe 10 seconds or 30 seconds i need to check out, so if PA was off do you think i will get it this way or i will have star trailing? it is 8" F5 New which is heavy, i even don't know if my balancing was right because i have a big nightmare trying to balance it then i gave up, this was a test for mirror quality and collimation more than a test for PA and guiding, so that i didn't use guiding, and i still working on collimating and also to have proper corrector distance if so, and when i said mirror quality i was talking about testing my 3rd party LRGB filters to find out if they are parfocal or not, many people liked this results, maybe, but i know i always look for better and my setup is good enough anyway before upgrading more.
  10. That above frame is what made me crazy about DSO, i never believed that i was able to get that target from my LP yard even with NB filters, and that what made another mistake for me to buy more and more setup without trying to build from it, i am sure if i return back to use single filter without filter wheel and without guiding setup i will be able to go up to 3-4 minutes unguided, but i know i will not do that forever, and i don't need to practice for that again, i bought filters and filter wheel for having data for colors, i think this above target at that point unguided making me to think about going OSC then with single filter for LP, Orion isn't a big problem, also M45, not sure if that is a good idea as it is not always mono with filters, having half frames good and half bad for any reasons, i know in that above image there is still issues there with stars, but imagine i got that without guiding, how it will be if i used properly guiding then?
  11. See in this single frame exposure, this was done in 2017 as my first test for the filter [Astrodon one, not the new set of Optolong NB and 3rd party LRGB], without filter wheel, and unguided, ignore that hole in center [that was condensation from camera as i didn't know about cooling and it was still hot that time, i think it was September or October]
  12. I am using PHD 2.0, i did here around some people having issues with version 2.0, but how do i know if it is the case or not, i didn't test my PHD2 much a lot yet, not sure if it is the settings or the software version itself or maybe my setup isn't placed right or the balancing issue by adding guiding system, i remember in 2017 i was able to get up to 3-5 minutes unguided really, that time i was using only Astrodon Ha filter without filter wheel and also without any guiding scope and camera on top of imaging scope, all issues started more when i once started to use a filter wheel and added guiding scope with camera since 2018, and i will be honest that in the past i didn't pay attention to balancing and also to polar alignment at all, so in 2018 i started with polar alignment as i bought Polemaster, but i forgot about balancing until nearly mid year of 2018 then i started to balance my setup, but maybe i am not yet good in that too for RA/DEC axis, not much difficult with my 7" Mak, but it is with my ST80+guiding or with my 8" F5 without guiding setup.
  13. Still don't know what you are talking about, but i will do my best, not sure when, i can start on a target even if it is full moon, but as you suggested it is an experiment stage now, i will see what i can get, but i need to learn more about PHD2 settings, somehow i feel like i still don't understand all settings and steps from Videos, some said do this, and some said leave as that, but i don't know if my camera and guide scope are focusing right or i have issue in that or maybe not aligned properly with my imaging setup as someone mentioned to me, after all how do i know if my guiding will be fine if i am not sure about my setup and settings are already spot on first?
  14. I use Polemaster, i also have Sharpcap, but i try to depend more on Polemaster and it is own dedicated app for that, i did read somewhere that someone tried to use Polemaster with Sharpcap, and also did read someone said it was more accuracy for him with Sharpcap than Polemaster but so many preferred Polemsater after all, and i am sure it is good polar alignment because i was able to have up to 1-3 minutes unfguided with slight trailing or let's say edges stars elongated more, it means with more accuracy or solving another issues then maybe it will be perfect, i also followed the instructions and i watched Videos about how to use Polemaster so i am sure i did it right as i got exactly how those videos told me to get. Thank you very much for the link, definitely will read it to learn more.
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