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About Vulisha

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  1. Well not with iPhone but I did use OnePlus 5t while ago for same target. Check does your phone have RAW capturing, take few exposures and stack it with Sequator and you will get even more impressive results. Best of luck!
  2. Hi Vlaiv I did something similar with my phone OnePlus 5T it supports camera2api but not fully. There is also apo currently in development DeepSkyCamera thst should5 be able to take longer exposure images, bit my phone does not support exposute longer than 1 second outside main camera app for something reason. So capturing was solved using Mini Mouse Macro software to repeat clicks with teamviewer on PC + teamviewer quick support on phone. You could additionally add sharpcap to stack from directory (pro version supports) andtry using DeepSkyCamera to bypass teamviewer h
  3. That is good option. Take chrome washer to prevent rust and new dents, I don't think silver color will shine too much to worsen seeing.
  4. Well I would say this is not bad result at all So Heritage 130p, 3x barlow, eos M, best 2% out of 15000 frames pipp, registax, ps cs2, cropped and enlarged a bit I did a lot of collimation and adjusting to achieve this as mentioned in thread before and I think this is maximum I can get with the current equipment regarding raw data, probably could do more with better processing.
  5. Thanks Infinity/Nicolàs! It could use a bit more fine tuning but it is pretty well now. Also what software do you use to split image I struggle with Photoshop. I have managed to see dark spot on Mars, untill now it was just a blurry glowy ball, and seeing is disaster these days. I did try to image Mars as well but my camera somehow corrupted 2/3 4gig raw video files so I did not get any results Toll that was much of help was Al Coli Aid: https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/232508-collimation-help/ It is available here on forum for download. I used simple colima
  6. I think I nailed it now! it was not an easy work but I managed by adding washers, distancers, bending holder a bit and colimating a few days.
  7. Polaris is on a vacation Well as I understand from posts before, with barlow to match F, and perfect dead centre collimation, 130 should be even better than 102 mak.
  8. Am I doing something Wrong here, and I have no idea what if I am but probably do. First I marked mirror As circular as I can get it: Then I tried to center circle on primary to middle: Then I moved primary to make collimation cap hole go to primary middle circle. Is this considered good collimation or should I match all circles in the middles exactly to match performance of vlaivs 102 mak?
  9. Thanks on the links. I have read most of cloudynights forum, that's where I got links for 3D printied parts But I have not seen this Al's collimation help, or his thread, thanks a lot!
  10. Really, but even shipping to Sweden is extremely high. For spider item is 9 pounds and shipping is 25 pounds. Inner cheapness inside me cannot give almost 3x item value for postage and it is relatively small item, it can fit in regular bubbly envelope.
  11. This is 80 best out of 800. Well visually it is pretty good for me as well, but cameras struggle. I hoped to get 3 way spider for 130p but astroboot shipping out of UK is insane, and I was not able to find it on aliex
  12. Here is some stuff from few nights ago, I would say it issomewhat improvement from before, mostly thanks to your advice. I think I missed the focus on Saturn a bit But collimation is still an issue when I set Intrafocal colimation well, extrafocal is bad, and vice versa. Heritages 1 point spider is actually very inprecise, and also weight of balow and DSLR is flexing focuser. For that I have ordered 3d printed part to support focuser, I do hope it will help.
  13. Yes I did that, I have canon with ML also there is "movie crop mode" that is also recommended when recording planets with DSLR that I have not tested yet. Unfortunately clouds just covered my Jupiter and Saturn and cannot test now. This recording above was made with C270 if I remember correctly.
  14. Ok so for theoretically same results on my 130/650 FL Heritage I would need ~2x barlow with same camera. That image of spherical is not bad at all, not good as your, but great compared to my results, although I do not have any dedicated planetary camera I have just APS-C DSLR and Logitech C270 and very very bad Svbony SV105 camera. That might create issues as well but i believe that collimation is issue number 1. So with DSLR (which is probably much better that two cams mentioned), that has pixel pitch of 4.29 µm I would need around 3.3X Barlow, but could get by with 3x?
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