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About Vulisha

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  1. Thanks Infinity/Nicolàs! It could use a bit more fine tuning but it is pretty well now. Also what software do you use to split image I struggle with Photoshop. I have managed to see dark spot on Mars, untill now it was just a blurry glowy ball, and seeing is disaster these days. I did try to image Mars as well but my camera somehow corrupted 2/3 4gig raw video files so I did not get any results Toll that was much of help was Al Coli Aid: https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/232508-collimation-help/ It is available here on forum for download. I used simple colimation cap, phone holder, and my phone with DroidCam app. Nothing else. I made big circle to match colimation cap hole, small circle to match secondary and + to match primary middle mark. It helped a lot to be able to work and see results on monitor directly.
  2. I think I nailed it now! it was not an easy work but I managed by adding washers, distancers, bending holder a bit and colimating a few days.
  3. Polaris is on a vacation Well as I understand from posts before, with barlow to match F, and perfect dead centre collimation, 130 should be even better than 102 mak.
  4. Am I doing something Wrong here, and I have no idea what if I am but probably do. First I marked mirror As circular as I can get it: Then I tried to center circle on primary to middle: Then I moved primary to make collimation cap hole go to primary middle circle. Is this considered good collimation or should I match all circles in the middles exactly to match performance of vlaivs 102 mak?
  5. Thanks on the links. I have read most of cloudynights forum, that's where I got links for 3D printied parts But I have not seen this Al's collimation help, or his thread, thanks a lot!
  6. Really, but even shipping to Sweden is extremely high. For spider item is 9 pounds and shipping is 25 pounds. Inner cheapness inside me cannot give almost 3x item value for postage and it is relatively small item, it can fit in regular bubbly envelope.
  7. This is 80 best out of 800. Well visually it is pretty good for me as well, but cameras struggle. I hoped to get 3 way spider for 130p but astroboot shipping out of UK is insane, and I was not able to find it on aliex
  8. Here is some stuff from few nights ago, I would say it issomewhat improvement from before, mostly thanks to your advice. I think I missed the focus on Saturn a bit But collimation is still an issue when I set Intrafocal colimation well, extrafocal is bad, and vice versa. Heritages 1 point spider is actually very inprecise, and also weight of balow and DSLR is flexing focuser. For that I have ordered 3d printed part to support focuser, I do hope it will help.
  9. Yes I did that, I have canon with ML also there is "movie crop mode" that is also recommended when recording planets with DSLR that I have not tested yet. Unfortunately clouds just covered my Jupiter and Saturn and cannot test now. This recording above was made with C270 if I remember correctly.
  10. Ok so for theoretically same results on my 130/650 FL Heritage I would need ~2x barlow with same camera. That image of spherical is not bad at all, not good as your, but great compared to my results, although I do not have any dedicated planetary camera I have just APS-C DSLR and Logitech C270 and very very bad Svbony SV105 camera. That might create issues as well but i believe that collimation is issue number 1. So with DSLR (which is probably much better that two cams mentioned), that has pixel pitch of 4.29 µm I would need around 3.3X Barlow, but could get by with 3x? This is my best result so far, best by far.
  11. Hi vlaiv! Nice to hear from you again Those are impressive shots! You mind me asking what camera are those shots taken with? Yes maybe you are right there as well, good Tele Vue eyepiece would cost even more than this scope. But I plan to film planets as well. Do you think Mak would be better for camera performance as it would not require additional barlow to achive same target size?
  12. Well it seems that decision is unanimous Keep good ol Heritage 130p an invest in other equipment (EP/camera). Thank you all on detailed input and on saving me some money
  13. And does Barlow quality have an effect? I have Celestron barlow - looks like this : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32728812306.html I do have acceptable eyepieces but collimation is a problem due to bad design of heritage spider (as seen in thread bellow) my secondary almost cannot be in perfect middle:
  14. Somehow I have not found thread like this, did find something remotely similar but not quite so. So as Mars opposition is closing in, and I have Heritage 130p, my planet views, are more than unsatisfactory since this telescope has only 650mm focal lenght. Even with barlow it does not get planets good views. Why this idea bumped me is because I saw on Youtube this guy and saw what he is doing with his small, noname MAK. And live views stunned me(turn to 1:50 for Jupiter), I would guess that visually would be better than through camera. But I was planing to shoot some small galaxy and nebula also with my DSLR. Would something like SW 102 mak be much better at planets, and small bright DSO objects, than my heritage 130p? Would less aperture affect views badly? I would prefer smaller scope-storage issues, that is why I got Heritage 130P instead of something bigger. Or would you recommend to extend to the 127 mak? Or not to waste my money?
  15. I am using cameras, EOS M and Logitech C270, as I don't see problems visually. Thanks on that link! While I did keep star in the center I did that due to FOV as I am also a little OCD. I did not know it affects colimation. Thanks! Not in my country, 130p is around 250 gbp and try explaining it to my wife... Thanks on the link, I found the item but shipping is 4x item price :O. I asked them is that a mistake, hopefully it is!
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