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Greg Shaw

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About Greg Shaw

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  • Interests
    Photography | Astrophotography | Space
  • Location
    Bristol, UK
  1. I posted first on the 12th December showing interest in the filter wheel and I have been exchange PM's about this as well.
  2. Just spotted this thread when I was searching for StellarDrive posts. I was mount 0899 so just one behind you. My EQ6-R was also made around the same time as yours and I was getting around 1 to 0.9 RMS but not consistently. I was also getting large knocks in the Dec which turned out to be a poorly fitted counterweight bar where one of the grub screws was fitted too tight breaking the thread. I went for the StellarDrive which is £699 rather than the StellarTune which is £499. The main difference is the worm gears are re processed to make them more accurate. The communication with Dave was good via fb messenger and email. He even phoned me on one occasion and we ended up chatting for over an hour. My mount took around 3 weeks but that was partly due to the counterweight bar issue my mount had. I haven’t had a chance to try the mount as it only arrived yesterday, but from just fitting a scope and rotating the RA and Dec its silky smooth!
  3. Hello If you do decide to split. I would be interested in the ZWO EFW 8 position. Thanks
  4. So after being in the astrophotographers game for 6 months after some recent purchases and upgrades I have found that I now have some items that I no longer need. Due to upgrading my whole focuser unit I now have a Baader 2" click lock clamp M54 available. Its been brilliant on my 150PDS and I was able to achieve perfect focus when paired with the Explore Scientific HR CC. I will accept PayPal if the fees are covered or if you send the money as a gift. Its in perfect condition and has been used about 10 times. Looking for £45 which will include postage. Due to upgrading to the Pegasus Pocket Power Advance I now no longer need the USB hub that I got for my setup. So I have a StarTech 7 Port USB 3.0 Hub (ST7300U3M). This little thing is really well made a solid, I don't have the box for it but will make sure its well packaged. Looking for £40 in which will include postage. I have fixed some strong velcro to the back of its plate so that I could attach it to my mount leg using some velcro straps. I have some spare straps and would be happy to add some if you need them.
  5. Hi Baz When I did mine I tried the approach of slacking the main centre screw and adjusting each of the three screws the same number of rotations so to push the secondary further down the scope in a straight line to align with the concenter. But in the end I found this not as easy because I was using bobs knobs rather than an allen key. So I ended up slackening off the three screws and used the main centre screw to adjust the depth of the secondary. I controlled the tilt with my hand by holding the back of the secondary. Once I was happy I tightened the three screws to hold the secondary in place. Dont worry about having to adjust the three screws to line up the primary it will be very slight. You should always go back and check the secondary once you have adjusted the primary. You might have to back and forward several times, each time making smaller and smaller adjustments. This was what my secondary looked like just after the first adjustment in lining up the secondary to the focuser This is what it looked like after I had made some adjustments to the secondary to get the primary aligned, as you can see its pretty much the same. Just looking down the focus tube this is what you can see This is what it looks like when using a collimation cap This is what it looks like with a cheshire (hard to take this because the camera tries to focus on the wires in the cheshire)
  6. Hi Baz When you are adjusting the secondary bolt have you loosened the three collimation grub screws as well? Also, something to remember once you have the perfect circle of the secondary with the concenter and remove the paper blocking the primary it is likely not to look like a circle again. This is an optical illusion and is just telling you that the primary and secondary are not lined up. This is when the three collimation grub screws on the secondary come into play.
  7. Hi Guys I have been following this thread for a while as I bought a concenter so that I could collimate my secondary after stripping the scope down for fitting a new focuser and flocking the tube. This is what I observed and did to get a successful collimation. Hopefully this will help everyone. Before reconnecting the secondary I made sure the focuser was collimated and made the required adjustments to the focuser collimation grub screws. I then attached the secondary and made sure it was central by measuring from the centre bolt out to the side of the scope. Then I created a template out of card and clipped it to one of the spider vanes to block the primary mirror. (which isn't here but its still required to make the observing the secondary easier.) I also added a green card opposite the focuser to create a contrast from the white card. To be able to see the rings in the concenter I attached a bright light to may chair and pointed it towards the top of the tube. Because I had my focuser attached to a stepper motor I just moved the concenter out of the focuser so that I could get one of the circles close to the secondary. This is what I observed. As you can see the tilt of the secondary looks good because it's a circle, but it needs to move towards the primary some more to hit the outer ring. I achieved this by holding the back of the secondary so not to tilt the secondary and then adjusted the central bolt. Once I was happy with the position I adjusted the 3 adjustment screws to lock to hold everything in place. I have recently added bobs knobs this made it very easy because I could adjust whilst still looking through the concenter. As you can see the secondary is now a circle and one of the concenter circles goes all around the edge of the secondary. I then connected the primary to the scope and checked with a cheshire, I needed to adjust the 3 adjustment bolts slightly to apply a very small amount of tilt to get the primary all in within the secondary. I then adjusted the primary to get the donut to match the cheshire cross hairs. Once this was complete I added the two templates again and rechecked the secondary with the concenter, to make sure it was still a circle and centered under the focuser. So I learnt that the concenter is great for getting the secondary centred and round under the focuser. But still use a cheshire to apply the correct tilt to the secondary to get all of the primary in view and to adjust the primary to get the donut lined up correctly.
  8. So I ordered a file which arrived a day early and plucked up the courage to enlarge the holes to accommodate the Moonlite adaptor plate. The file worked really well but i did catch the side of the tube so afterwards I taped up the sharp from end of the file. I was able to touch up the scratch with some acrylic paint and polished it flat to prevent the scratch from rusting. Now to flock the tube and clean the mirrors.
  9. I've had another look and it looks like I might be able to extend the current holes rather than create new ones. In the picture you can see the mounting holes just being visible on both sides.
  10. Hi Guys The Moonlite CR2 that I ordered a few months ago has finally arrived. It came with the 6” adaptor plate and two (0.5” & 1”) spacers. To my disappointment I discovered that the adaptor plate does not line up with the existing holes. I can only get either the top two or bottom two holes to match. I was wondering if anyone has managed to fit this focuser to a 150PDS and if you had to drill new holes? Thanks
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