rnobleeddy

The dual band filter splits Ha to the R channel and spreads O across G and B. So you can't create SHO images because you don't have S data, but you can create images with H and O. I tended to separate R,G,B then combine G and B, but I'd didn't use PS. The problem is that, for whatever reason, it seems hard to collect a lot of O data with there filters. The veil look stunning and is strongly dual colour, but almost everything else was just a shade of red. This came up before, and another user had better success with longer integration times in darker skies, so I'd start

The problem with comparisons on the internet is there's too much variability. It'd need to be a side by side comparison, and I doubt many people buy both just to do that!

I'd guess it'd depend on the UHC. The easiest way to compare filters is to ignore the name and look at the chart of wavelength vs transmission %!

Is it the MPCC ii ? I had the same issue with the mark ii, which was fixed by getting a mark iii.

The extreme has to be better - with a narrower band pass you get more of the signal you want. Of course, that may not make a noticeable difference to the final image, but it's bound to be measurable if you compared them side by side with the same sky/equipment.

In terms of ISO, http://dslr-astrophotography.com/iso-values-canon-cameras/ has a solid list of recommendations.

Keep the load as light as possible, balance it as well as possible and ensure the backlash is adjusted as well as possible. Are you intending to guide?

Are you happy to post?

If you've already got the motors then if you can find a second handset I'd start there. Astroboot used to be good for that kind of thing, but Brexit appears to have killed it. The main difference in the the handsets is that the advanced red one allows guiding via an ST4 cable. I thought long and hard about upgrading my un-motorized EQ5 to GoTo but in the end I went with a second hand Skywatcher upgrade kit, because there wasn't anything else that seemed particularly cost effective.

I think you'll find a few opinions but.... - I'd be surprised if light pollution is your issue in Bortle 5. More likely, an unmodded DSLR is better suited to galaxies that nebula due to the fact that a lot of red light is being filtered out. - The narrow band filters work well in areas of high LP but probably best if you don't consider them as just a LP filter. They fundamentally change what you're imaging as you're only capturing 2 emission lines. - For general LP you can also consider something like https://www.firstlightoptics.com/light-pollution-reduction/idas-d2-light-poll

Looks like there were/are a couple of versions of this and the latest one is a different colour (e.g. https://www.astroshop.eu/telescopes/orion-optics-uk-maksutov-telescope-mc-140-2000-omc-carbon-ota/p,60101) - do you if this is the standard or deluxe?

I was about to say the same. With a Ha filter, there will be no signal in G/B, so all that can add is noise.

I was gonna suggest this. It works very well and doesn't limit you to certain products (in as much as it supports everything that Indi supports). Astroberry has most of the same software.

I've used both a baader mpcc mark ii and mark ii with sensors up to and including aps-c and they've performed fine. I'm not the pickiest imager, but I can't see any coma remaining. I know it's used by a few people and I've not heard any particularly bad reviews, but it probably depends how much you stare at the stars in the corners! I heard from someone I purchased a 2nd hand scope from that the aplanatic cc worked well too.

Slightly different take from me. If the OTA has a large enough image circle, a second hand 5D could be a decent option. You could pick up an umodded one for £250 for eBay, although I'd assume that the only reason you're after such a wide field would be for nebulae, and so modding may be essential. To make it viable cost wise, I think you'd need to do the mod yourself, as the full frame sensors tend to command a premium with the modders.