RT65CB-SWL

You think that is bad! Spare a thought for 'us' ETX90/105/125 users... there is no provision whatsoever for attaching a dovetail... ...bar if you remove the plastic flip mirror housing/visual back and replace it with a 'third-party' backplate... hence the reason for the Jubilee/hose rings on mine!

G'day @TheTeenThatLovesAstronomy and welcome to SGL. As per what @dweller25 says... forget about the eyepiece set. Best advice I can give at the present time is to get to know how the 'scope works', (during the day and night), to begin with. A collimation tool (either a 'Cheshire' collimation tool or a collimation cap. If you opt for a laser collimation tool, then you will/may need to check the collimation for that too, especially the cheaper branded ones, (there are tutorials on a popular video sharing website on how to do it), is one of the first accessories to purchase. Back to the eyepiece set. I cannot think of a good set to buy... so that is why I agree with @dweller25. If you want to try a zoom e/p, then I would recommend the Baader Hyperion 8-24mm zoom to begin with. Once you have found the sweet spot, then purchase additional 'fixed' length eyepieces of the equivalent size. I personally like 13mm and 6mm). I have a variety of various brands, types from Ortho's (narrowest FOV) to Nagler's (widest FOV), and from affordable to expensive, (either second-hand or new in box). Filters are a bane of contention with us amatuers... Colour filters are a Marmite/Vegemite thing... you either like or hate them! For lunar/Moon observing a variable polarising filter is quite possibly a must have. For most other visual stuff, I use a Baader Neodymium, (I refer to it as my 'Swiss-Army knife' filter), or a UHC... all are available in 1.25" or 2".

Looking good @Ags - I have just downloaded the .PDF to my iPhone - tnx in adv.

I have the predecessor… a TV Radian 6mm. The first time I used mine, I too was blown away. It still delivers excellent views 20+ years later. Just wait until you get a TV Nagler!

Hi @harry4782, my 're-modded' ETX105 c/w dew shield and star diagonal... I forgot to include in my earlier reply.

Welocome back @Mr niall.

Hi @StarWomble and welcome to SGL.

Hi @harry4782 and welcome to SGL. SCT focussers do require a lot of turning either clockwise or anti-clockwise before a target becomes focussed. As per @AstroMuni says, try in the daytime and it will be a lesson on how it all goes together, etc., when it becomes dark. Also, when using at night, allow the OTA to acclimatise to the outside temperature, (remove the end cap on the visual back and point it up to the sky so any trapped heat can escape). It can take between 30-60 minutes once outside.

Wishing you all the best for a speedy recovery @BinocularSky

Hi @zappagreen and welcome to SGL from another in the Royal County of Berkshire. I have added a link to the astronomy clubs/societies in Berskhire... http://www.astronomyclubs.co.uk/Clubs/Default.aspx?CountyId=10

Hi @GeoffM54 and welcome to SGL. I think that is the correct size for your 'scope. An alternative or 'cheapskate' method... Jubilee/hose rings. I use a pair on my 're-modded' ETX105 as I cannot find anything that was of the correct diameter. So I do not scratch the OTA, I applied some self adhesive neoprene and felt on the inside surface of the rings. Only downside is that you cannot rotate the tube if it is fitted to a GEM/EQ mount. (images below). It may not be the most elegant solution, but it works for me.

Hi @Richard_ and welcome to SGL. Nice images.

Hi @Astro_Nic and welcome to SGL. Sorry I cannot help with your equipment choice as I feel that I do not have enough experience, but those SGL'ers that do, will be along and advise.

Hi @Mogra1 and welcome to SGL. Also when changing your eyepieces, you will need to refocus the ‘scope… unless they are parfocal… and start with the lowest power/biggest number until you find the one you are comfortable with. I used to be anti-zoom e/p, but now find they are indispensable tools, as they can help you determine which fixed length to purchase next. The downside to a zoom e/p is the narrow fields of view that they give depending on the focal length dialled in. If you decide to purchase one, the Baader Hyperion 8-24mm MkIV is a good choice. Other 8-24mm zoom e/p’s are available and each have their strengths and weaknesses. I would avoid 7-21mm. That said I own a ‘cheap’ 7-21mm, (image below), and it does for what I need if I need to travel light with a few fixed length eyepieces in a backpack or ‘scope case. I am not saying they are bad. When I ordered mine, it may have been dispatched in error by the order picker. It was to much hassle and inconvenience to send it back for a replacement 8-24mm as it came an overseas internet astro-outlet.

Just a thought… mirror slop. Normally affects the primary mirror where the locking/retaining ring that slides along the baffle tube becomes loose. I had this issue with my ETX05.

Many of the popular Linux distro’s only include ‘KStars’ …well some of the ones I have previously installed. Another popular Linux distro was ‘Distro Astro’ (no more support/updates after release 3.x or 4.x) The .ISO can be still be downloaded if you want to give it a try as well.

Personally I would buy the Baader mk. IV if you use 1.25" and 2" e/p's I do not own one, but borrowed one from a fellow member from my local astro society/club at the end of February 2020 and was quite surprised by its weight and performance with my 're-modded' ETX105.

That is beautiful. A set of brass tube rings would be a nice finishing touch. ...hope you isolated or disconnected the light-switch! 😁😉 Slightly off topic,.. Below is an image of my sighting telescope [c.1916] with sliding dew shield... note: a blob of Blu-Tack stopped it from rolling/falling off. ...and an RAS threaded e/p [date unknown] in a 1.25" adapter made for me Beacon Hill Telescopes [c.1998/99]

Managed to take my first solar image and of AR2846 with my TeleVue Ranger, Lunt Herschel Wedge, AstroBoot 18mm e/p, Baader single polarising filter and iPhone 12 handheld over the eyepiece... The post processing was with one of MS-Windows 10 pre-installed paint/image apps to convert it from .HEIC to .JPG I did try with the Baader Solar Continuum filter as well, but the image was not as good. Admins… please feel free to move to ‘Imaging - Solar’ section if appropriate and remove this text - tnx in adv.

Hi Lyndon and welcome to SGL.

I was going to suggest the same!

Interesting topic. I am 99.9% in the visual camp. Put it simply, you are a witness, maybe an astronomical piece of history when viewing in real time. As we are approaching the 22nd anniversary of the last solar eclipse of the 20th century on 11th August... I do not think any storage medium, (i.e. film, video tape, CCD, CMOS, etc), can ever replicate that what is seen with the mark one eyeball. I still have 'flashbacks' of the day and I was in awe of watching the Sun's corona during about 2m40s of totality.

Hi again @NW_Gazer and @etsatlo Following on from my earlier posting/reply yesterday.... ...a few more images above of my 're-modded' ETX105 and below showing the ETX to SCT adapter and 1.25" visual back.

Hi @NW_Gazer and welcome to SGL. Have you considered a Maksutov? Depending on the brand, they can expensive. Below are some images of my Meade ETX105, albeit having a modified back after an accident that damaged two of three mounting points on the original plastic one that it is supplied/fitted with. They are excellent lunar and planetary ‘scopes for visual use. Focal length for them is about f14. They can also be used for other outdoor activities/pursuits and take up very little storage space. For observing comets I prefer to use binoculars.