RT65CB-SWL

Hi @Dummy and welcome to SGL.

I forgot to mention that I have sold the Vixen GP mount... i.e. the one shown in the first image, as it was at its maximum payload in that configuration.

Hi @Matt Ikaruga and welcome to SGL. An SCT and/or Maksutov will always 'win' on lunar and planets. Above are images of my C6/SCT and ETX105.

My catadioptric 'scopes are slightly smaller than yours, (ETX105 and C6/SCT), and I do not bother with a Barlow lens. Instead of looking through a straw, it is like looking through a hypodermic needle, as the FOV is narrow to begin with. Sometimes, but not always, I may use an Astro Engineering 1.6x 'Magni-Max' instead.

They are close, aren't they!

Hi @Goose0211 and welcome to SGL. Which version do you have? - I have the 'basic' version and this does not show them. @Knighty2112 & @MarkRadice beat me to it!

From a 60º to 82º e/p... or in my e/p case 50º to 82º... the view is priceless... and slightly more expensive than the OP's budget. left: 13mm Plossl centre: 13mm Nagler Type1 right: 13mm Nagler Type 6

Hi @Sandoz and welcome to SGL. Assuming it has the star diagonal SCT threaded locking ring/collar, then nothing else is required. Just unscrew it and remove the 1.25" visual back and screws straight onto the back of your OTA as shown in image #1 below on my 're-modded' ETX105. If however the star diagonal is a 'push-fit' then you will need a 2" SCT visual back. #1 BTW - that is my Altair Astro SCT 2" star diagonal on the back of the ETX105 that I share use with my Celestron C6/SCT. And some more images of my ETX105... #2 #3 #4 Image #3 has an ETX-SCT adaptor ring so I can attach any SCT accessory. Image #4 shows it with a 1.25" SCT visual back. Useful tip: when putting on anything that is threaded, always turn it anti-clockwise first, then when you have found the spot where it is likely to tighten up... tighten it up clockwise. if the threads are left-handed, clockwise first to untighten... then tighten it up anti-clockwise. it prevents cross-threading. I do it all the time with my SCT accessories, e/p filters, and when adding filters to my camera lenses, etc.

What is your budget? I was thinking of something like this... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/maksutov/sky-watcher-skymax-127-virtuoso-gti.html ...but the table will need to be very stable.

Oh yes! I have just had a closer look at the first image and I can now see it.

Hi @LondonNeil Good advice given by fellow SGL'ers. If you are going to be buying a new telescope, I personally would avoid places like ebay, amazon, aliexpess, etc. Who are better rewarded by buying from a reputable 'bricks and mortar' dealer such as First Light Optics, [sponsors of SGL], Rother Valley Optics. etc. If you don't mind buying second-hand, then the For Sale forum/section here or UKAB&S are the places to visit... avoid ebay and/or facebook market place, nextdoor, etc. If you can visit a local astronomy society or club, find out if they have an open-day or star party and attend them. It will give you some idea of size of 'scopes and equipment used, etc., when you see them rather relying on magazine ads and i'net.

Hi @Felipe Diffraction spikes are 'normal' with 'scopes when the secondary is held in place by a spider, as per your first image. They are a love/hate artifact by some. As for the rings in the second image, I have only seen them when used with a catadioptric lens or 'scope. I believe/think it is to do with the placement of the camera imaging sensor and focal reducer on the 'scope creating internal reflections.

I like the concept... but how and what are you going to use to open and close the 'scope room 'flip-top' box? Assuming it is going to be made from plywood, (preferably marine-ply), and reinforced... is it going to be too heavy for manual operation!

Hi @mosstrooper and welcome to SGL. Look forward to seeing the images.

Hi @PhilPassmore and welcome to SGL ... from another Phil or Philip.

Hi Neil... a left handed drill bit is turning anti-clockwise. They look the same as your 'typical' right hand drill bits, apart from direction of the flutes when you look at them side-by-side. Theoretically the drill bit 'bites' the metal of the grub screw anti-clockwise to undo it and if it has enough 'bite', it should follow the screw thread and come out.

Yes! I am going to have to drill out the offending grub screw on my ETX105 focus knob with a left-handed drill bit. I got my drill bit from the well known auction site within a few days of ordering.

I have use and one of these... via a well known auction site. note: I would not recommend you use the eyepiece holder with heavy e/p's. Just unscrew it and attach to your chosen e/p. There are four parts in total, including one locking screw (not shown). And I have and use one of these... for my 2" eyepiece.

Hi @TonyOwe73242661 and welcome to SGL. The locking ring can be removed as the crosshair wires are sometimes glued into grooves in the barrel. It was on the one I had... lost it somewhere or let someone borrow it and/or they failed to return it.

I give my e/p's a light-wipe clean and at the end of every session. After a night session if they are dewed up, I leave then on the kitchen worktop, re-attach 'scope to mount, all caps off, go to bed and leave to 'dry' and clean them when I am awake and alert. They get a clean maybe once or twice a year.

Hi again @arjunv and thank you. A few things I forgot to mention when observing with a catadioptric 'scope from the balcony would be better, because... you will be behind the 'scope with a Mak or SCT, not at the side as with a 'Newtonian'. the image through the e/p is right way up, left and right are reversed. whether dew is or not an issue in Abu Dhabi or the rest of the Middle East, I don't know, but purchasing a dew shield will help in reducing stray light and improving some contrast. every now and again, wind the focus in & out a few times as this will help spread the grease/lubricant along the baffle tube. when in storage, ensure you store it objective end up. You do not what that grease/lubricant dripping onto the corrector plate/menicuis cell when it is hot. Now for some eyepiece and filter advice, etc... don't buy a set of eyepieces because it is at a special price when purchased as a bundle with the 'scope. I used to be anti-zoom e/p. Having one in you 'scope case/bag can give you an idea of what to expect for a fixed length when you decide to purchase individual ones later on. Plossl e/p's are the most popular type supplied [usually 25mm and/or 10mm] and have an AFOV of 50deg. BST StarGuider's are 60deg., (here in GB/UK, new BST StarGuider's retail for about £50.00GBP per unit), and you may find these are better for DSO's. Then there are the types offered with 'exotic' names by other manufacturers. Many years ago I observed M31, (Andromeda Galaxy), with with an ETX125, (not mine), at a star party and a Plossl, it filled the eyepiece. Put in a e/p with wider FOV and it gave a better and more rewarding view. some filters do improve things. The most popular ones I use are UHC, OIII and Neodymium. For the Moon I use a variable polarising filter. Some light pollution filters 'do work' though not with LED street lighting. I sometimes use colour filters for the planets.

2.20lbs = 1kg

Hi @arjunv and welcome to SGL. A few benefits of getting a catadioptric 'scope are... long focal length 'scope in a short tube. excellent for lunar and planetary observing/viewing. can be used for other outdoor moobes/pursuits. can get away as 'carry-on' baggage at the airport... pack the tripod and mount in the suitcase. hardly ever require collimation. Below are some images of my 're-modded' ETX105...

Somewhere in my apartment is my 'Go-Pro' clone... the battery is still installed!

Hi @Gondalf and welcome to SGL. I think it depends on what you intend to view, budget, light pollution, transport, weight, etc. I personally enjoy viewing the Sun, Moon and planets. Below are images of my 'scopes... ...they are: TeleVue Ranger, Meade ETX105, and Celestron C6/SCT. Below images of my Meade ETX105. note: the rear backplate replaced the rear plastic flip-mirror cell and Jubilee/hose rings attach the dovetail bar.