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    Born in Montreal 45.461083, -73.584833 Living in Champagne s/Seine 48.403948, 2.800075

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  1. OMG you've unhearthed a thread I've totally forgotten about ! That's almost 8 years ago time flies. I've learned a lot by reading my own thread ! lol Back then I was in the process of planing the build but I had to move to the city and never got the chance to go through with it... Now I am back at it
  2. I've read somewhere that the 1 cubic meter requirement came from the 1st DYI pier base that were mostly done in colder region in the US where the frost line can be quite deep, so footings needed to be placed below this line to prevent them from heaving or shifting due to the freeze-thaw cycle. It then became "a standard" even in countries where it never really gets cold in the winter. Not sure if it's true but it would explain the overkill
  3. The drawback of a leveling platform is that you rest your whole setup on 4 bolts but I've seen some people argue that those for bolts are rock solid... I agree with your point, I don't think I would be able to see the difference with my light setup and the seeing I usually get any vibration would be drowned anyway. So, I'll go with the one that I think would be more convenient for me, the Pulsar with the Owl nest
  4. I am looking for a pier for my permanent observatory build. I found these 2 piers that fit my needs but they have a different design: Altair Skyshed 8 inch Observatory Pier (Heavy Duty w anti-vibration fins) designed with a leveling plate https://www.altairastro.com/altair-skyshed-8-inch-observatory-pier-heavy-duty-w-anti-vibration-fins-441-p.asp and Pulsar Anti-Vibration Observatory Pier v2 without a leveling plate https://www.firstlightoptics.com/pulsar-observatories/pulsar-anti-vibration-observatory-pier-v2.html I've heard over the years that your mount doesn't have to be perfectly leveled as it will mechanically be leveled when doing the polar alignements. here's what Pulsar is saying about the leveling plate: The adjustable platform myth : This myth began, we suspect, because early DIY pier designs were based on a poured concrete or wooden pillar, requiring an adjustable platform. An all-welded pier does not. These DIY designs spread via social media to such an extent that today even some commercially available piers unwittingly include the same adjustable platform! The myth is that astronomy piers need an adjustable platform to achieve a perfect level. It is not true because a GEQ mount's RA axis is polar aligned, so it is independent of the pier's top plate. This is fortunate because fitting a mount to an adjustable platform, which is in turn fitted to some stud bolts, defeats the purpose of having a solid all-welded pier. But what about Azimuth rotation? This isn't necessary either because astronomy mounts have integrated azimuth adjustment (it is necessary to know where North is when fitting a pier to its concrete base, but that isn't difficult). But here's what Altair is saying about this: Levelling and rotation is important for good GOTO and easier, more accurate polar alignment: All major mount manufacturers recommend setting up an Equatorial or Alt Azimuth mount as level as possible, and aligned to the North/South axis. Without accurate levelling Equatorial Mounts are difficult to polar align The only way to ensure your mount is perfectly level is with the four 16mm thick steel threaded adjustment rods, which allow small incremental adjustments with a spanner once your scope is mounted. Don't fall for cheaper designs which don't allow rotation or rely on "shims" (basically washers) for accurate levelling. When you get that dream rolloff observatory or dome built, or make your own, this is the only solution to get 100% right designed by astronomers. We have replaced many piers from 3rd parties which have suffered various problems from corrosion, to a frustrating inability to level or rotate them in Azimuth. What are your thoughts on these 2 opposite take on the leveling issue ? Is it purely a marketing strategy and it won't make any difference to the average astronomer ? I find that Altair "only way" and "only solution" (emphaisis mine) is a bit arrogant tbh. I like the Pulsar one because of the "Owls Nest" and cable access holes. I suspect that with the material that I use and the poor seeing, I would never see the effect caused by vibrations, especially since I won't be standing anywhere near the mount and the base will be isolated from the observatory.
  5. * That would be "William The Nice Guy" in today's term. But in that period "Gentil" (from the Latin "Gentillis") would translate to "noble", "social elite"; Gentilhomme (Gentleman)
  6. I love you Jupiter and the Saturn is not bad at all for a first time try. Good job
  7. Interesting, I too thought that it was worth next to nothing I will try and sell it then. I did not have any issues with the screws, I was lucky I guess. The price did add up, but the focuser is such a beauty, I can feel the difference in the smoothness of the movement. I do not regret, and it was a xmas gift
  8. Ho that is nice to know. I was a bit disappointed to lose the ability to rotate the focuser ! -> I took the thumbscrew (with a nylon tip) from the original ring and removed a grub screw on the adapter. -> I was able to fit the thumbscrew and now I can rotate the focuser as it use to do. I would still buy the clicklock anyway for its ease of use when swapping/installing my camera so I don't feel bad spending money on it (I sold the old one so the extra cost was minimal) but I feel better knowing I can also rotate the focuser Thanks for your input guys !
  9. Hello all, I've decided to document the upgrade of my stock focuser to a Baader Diamond SteelTrack as I ran into some issues and surprises and this might help others avoiding them. 1st surprise : The Baader Diamond SteelTrack does not fit a SW 80ED without an adapter. 2nd surprise: You need to remove one grub screw on the adapter and replace it with the thumbscrew from the original focuser ring to keep the ability to rotate the focuser 3rd surprise: there are no screws supplied with the dovetail shoe (the focuser does not have a dovetail shoe built in, you need to buy one separately) 4th surprise: I already had a clicklock screwd on the 80ED stock focuser. IT WILL NOT FIT on the Baader SteelTrack. You need to buy a different model What you will need to buy along with the focuser 1x adapter to mount 1x Dovetail shoe (optional) 1x Baader clicklock (optional) I already had a clicklock installed on the 80ED stock focuser. IT WILL NOT FIT on the Baader SteelTrack. You need to buy a different model. Step 1 Remove the stock focuser Step 2 Align the adapter with the OTA holes Step 3 Remove the rotation ring on the Baader Diamond SteelTrack focuser Step 4 Fit the Baader focuser into the adapter ring and secure with the grub screws. Be very careful as I applied almost no pressure and still managed to damage the screws. They are quite soft. Step 5 (optional) Install the Dovetail shoe surprise! There are no screws provided with the dovetail shoe. I will need to find the reference and buy some. I am quite happy with the result. There is no comparison between the stock focuser and the Baader Diamond Steeltrack.
  10. I sold my Mak 150 and got myself a Mak 180 ... I took a picture before shipping off the 150. Seen here on the old HEQ5 mount.
  11. ok so I see what happened there. The ClickLock I own is not in fact the Baader ClickLock 2956258 but the SW Baader ClickLock M56i 2956256... Unfortunately on many vendors site, the picture shown of the 2956258 look a heck of a lot like the 2956256... One website showed it upside down as well ... So I could tell from the picture that I had not, in fact, the correct clamp ... Ho well, live and learn ... I just bought from FLO the correct clamp that had 10£ off due to a customer return
  12. Hello All, I just received my Baader Steeltrack to replace my stock focuser on my SW ED80. I already own a 2" Baader ClickLock clamp (S58) and it was supposed to be a fit for this focuser. The problem is that once I remove the stock clamp to replace it, the threads are on the inside like so: 1. I loosened the grub screws 2. I can see the threads on the inside 3. Here is my Clicklock ... no way to connect it to the Focuser 4. I tried separating the stock clamp from the bottom piece thinking that I might need it but, either it is stuck or it's not supposed to be separated Anyone has had this problem ? Thanks
  13. I finally found this one https://www.astroshop.eu/tube-clamps/omegon-100mm-tube-clamps-for-102-660-telescope/p,57288 Looks a bit on the cheap side compared to the primaluce .. but for the price I think I can afford to test it
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