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Vox45

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Everything posted by Vox45

  1. It took a while to get used to the new site but now I am fine with it except for one thing... I have bookmarked the "new content" page and after going through all the new content, I click at the bottom of the page "mark site read" What is bothering me is that any new entry of a new or an ongoing threads display the last comment on the thread instead of the original post. So I get the title of the thread such as: "wow this is interesting" and the last comment would be : "indeed" Not very helpful ! I sometime get a dozen of threads such as "lunar picture" or "saturn" and such .. all with the same comment from the same person who decided to up their comment counts with: "great job!" Unless there is a way to configure this, it is quite annoying. I'd rather be able to see the original post as a preview of what the thread is about... There, I feel better now /end rant
  2. did you apply the new firmware that deals with overheating ? https://www.techrepublic.com/article/raspberry-pi-4-running-hot-new-update-will-cool-your-board-down/
  3. Ho I see what you mean now thanks for the pictures
  4. Interesting, would you have any picture so I can better visualize what you did ? I am running Indi/kstars/ekos on an RPI3B+ and I am quite happy with it. I want to go for the extra memory and CPU speed and, of course, the UBS3 ports of the RPI4 I plan to recycle the RPI3 to work with my 3D Printer using OctoPrint
  5. spoken like a true DIYer I just don't see how to fit a plate on those round rings that came with my OTA, I think it would be a bit wobbly
  6. I think that changing the rings to ones with a flat surface would do the trick, I could then just bolt the bottom of the box to the ring with 4 anchor points... no need for a plate of any kind then .. It is hard to tell from the picture if the knobs are higher than the top of the ring though... If so, that would mean that I would need some kind of spacer to elevate the box ... introducing potential flexure https://www.firstlightoptics.com/tube-rings/william-optics-90mm-cnc-tube-rings.html
  7. No as I will be using an OAG. I would just like to mount the box which will be 3D printed. I guess I could just make holes in the box and secure it to the 2 screws on the scope rings but that would make the box a bit wobbly, I'd rather bolt the box to an aluminium plate and the plate to the rings... A custom made plate then ?
  8. What a lovely idea ! Once I get enough (good quality) material, I might actually do the same What a nice way to be remembered.
  9. That is why I bought the 3 volumes of Burnham's celestial handbook. For the pure pleasure of perpetuating his memory. If you don't know who he is, his life is a tragedy So, maybe you could put this all in the form of a book and self-publish it ?
  10. Hi all, I've made several iteration of a power distribution box/hub attached to the side of my SW80Ed like this It has worked fine for long time but now I would like to refine the design and add a couple of items to it. -> make it smaller and slimmer -> add an arduino nano board and electronics to operate a "myfocuserPro" focuser control -> add a RPI4 inside the box (instead of a RP3B+ that hangs outside the box) -> mount it on the top of my scope so it is easier to balance, is more rigid and has less wind drag (if there is a lot of wind, my current box act as a sail ...) I see that prima luce Eagle boxes are mounted on top of refractors like this: That is the basic idea of what I want to build but what kind of plate should I use to mount the box on top of my refractor ? A custome made aluminium plate maybe ? Or do I need to change the holding brackets like they seem to have done in the example above ? Please let me know if any of you guys or gals have an idea on how to solve this
  11. He has published a very good book as well ISBN-13: 978-1937538439 https://www.amazon.fr/Astrophotography-Thierry-Legault/dp/1937538435
  12. I think the problem is that I went in there with a lot of assumption on what focal lenght and diameter really meant. I was sure that I would get a better view with 1800 FL compared to 1000/1200 Newtons, but was shocked by the poor view of the 3550mm of the 14'' SCT ! So I spent quite some time this afternoon to research what a Mak is really about, how it came to be and what kind of optics it uses and learned quite a lot. Most of it was covered in the first answers here (thanks guys) and some more on a couple of in-depth explanation of meniscus corrector plate, achromatic corrector and spherical aberration on different websites... What I take away from this experience is that pure numbers was not the only factors in play: size of the scope, thermal equilibrium, EP, mount, seeing, wind, collimation can all throw a wrench in the proverbial works ... I'll try to reassure my pal Pascal shown here with the MEADE 14'', unaware that he would be crying later, and the guys back at the club that they did not spend 10K€ for nothing (they were a bit upset)
  13. - smaller central obstruction - lack of spider vanes - 'solid' collimation I can see all this playing a big role. thanks for your remarks Ha, I did not think of this ... I will have to compare under better conditions, It was quite shocking to me to see in the 14'' that, although Saturn was bigger, the view was less contrasted and detailled ...
  14. I was attending a star party at a new astroclub I just joined and was the only one using a Maksutov-Cassegrain 150. The general public was quite happy with the view of jupiter and saturn in my scope and soon members of the club started to take interest in my small OTA compared to their big Newton OTA. I had the best view of all scopes that night and even the club's MEADE 14'' was put to shame in term of contrast... This was very shoking to me. I knew that Maks were "planet killer" but I never had the chance to put one in direct competition with other scope under the same conditions... I assume that the MEADE was maybe not used to its full potential as this is a new acquisition by the club. Also, the EP might have played a role as well. But, compared to all other scopes present (mostly Newton scopes) the Mak was the only one to resolve Cassini's division and see 3 bands on Jupiter on a night with a so-so sky. So I started to wonder what was making Maks so good at planetary observation ? Focal lenght ? I read that on visual observation FL does not have a lot of importance... Diameter ? 180mm is less than the Newtons present (200mm) so resolution is lower than a Newton... Even my old C6 with the same aperture did not give me as good a view, so the cassegrain part is not in play (?) Anyone can weight in on this subject ?
  15. I usually solve under 10sec using the local installation. I can understand that people would be reluctant to use plate solving if every solution took minutes to get solved. To speed up solving, you need to have your FOV exactly right in the configuration and download only the appropriate index files. If not, you will need to go through all index files and there are a lot ...There are a couple more tips to speed things up in the documentation. To get the exact FOV you can do a blind solve and Astrometry.net will tell you. If I use astronomy tool calculator I get 2.49 x 1.66 deg FOV for my setup, a blind solve gives me 2.44 x 1.63 deg FOV. Not a big difference, but it is accurate. In my case, I only use plate solving. I never do any kind of star alignment, I just sync to the solution when on target. I even use astrometry to get my polar alignment right.
  16. Thank you for clarifying. I understand what you mean. What I like about plate solving and why I stopped doing 3 stars alignement is that I can now move from target to target using solve (and sync) and after a couple of targets the model is as good as doing a 3 stars alignment and with each targtet the model gets refined to 4, 5, 6 stars and on and on I had issues at first with the solving not completing or taking a long time. With the proper settings: making sure I entered the correct FOV, only using the index file I need (too many uneeded index files slow down the process) I always solve under 10 sec.
  17. I am confused by what you said. I do plate solving to reach and center my target (it replaces the GOTO fonction and 3 stars alignment) once the scope is on target and I need to go to another target I just plate solve again. What I do not understand is why are you talking about significant alignment error ? Are you refering to polar alignement ? Once you are polar aligned, you stay plolar aligned no matter where you plate solve, at the pole or anywhere else. Could you clarify as I may have misunderstood something and getting it wrong. Thanks!
  18. I had the same scope in 2015 and I was able to get this from Paris using a cheap webcam and these settings: [Philips SPC 900NC PC Camera] Frame Divisor=1 Resolution=640x480 Frame Rate (fps)=10.00 Colour Space=YUY2 Exposure=-4 Brightness=56 Contrast=32 Saturation=72 Gamma=0 ColorEnable=255 BacklightCompensation=0 Gain=40 You say you took a 5sec video, that would be around 100 frames correct ? I took : Total input frames: 1505 Frames discarded by quality: 705 Total output frames: 800. So maybe taking a longer video and using PIPP and Autostakkert 2 with more frames to work with.
  19. I just re-did my whole setup on an RPI3B+ using Stellarmate (the comercial version of INDI/EKOS) because I was to lazy to redo everyting I had done on a laptop running Linux Mate. So now I run everything from the RPI at the mount plugged into my power distribution box v.2 I can now connect with VNC over WIFI (the PI act as an access point) and I use a GPS dongle to provide location/time to the Ekos/Kstar and the mount. I would say that from the time I received my RPI, install the Stellarmate image and test my new setup it took around 1 hour it took some time to watch a couple of videos on the Stellarmate youtube channel and I was up and running in no time. I even got myself a GPS dongle for 15€ to setup the time and location since the RPI does not have an RTC onboard. So, all in all it works great, I only do DSO imaging so RPI3B+ is fine. As a precaution, I bought 2 microSD cards and, once the configuration was to my licking, I burned the same image on both cards, so if I am in the field and something goes wrong with my OS or INDI I can just switch cards and reboot to a clean setup... So now I only have one cable coming from the mount (power cable) ... until someone comes up with a golf ball size nuclear fusion powered power supply
  20. I saved a lot of money by not jumping on the Polemaster bandwagon ! I came this close to buy one but then I found out that Ekos lets you use platesolving (like Sharpcap does) to adjust your polar alignment. I was already using platesolving to center my target so now I never have to go through a star alignment procedure. Also, I bought one of the USB dongle for my RPI setup (I use INDI and Ekos) ... I could afford to spend 15€ and save me a bit of time (and human errors) on entering the time/date and LAT LON eveytime I boot the RPI money well spent!
  21. I also bought the right angle finder for my Sirius mount (HEQ5) and found this thread for the 3D printed adapter Thanks for sharing, it works perfectly ! I printed all the pieces from the second file and glued them together. I just need to spray paint them black and I will be the star of the party next time I go out
  22. Hello Florent! I used to live in Vincennes but I moved to Fontainebleau in August. So we may be living in the same region Let me know as I need to find a club and a astro buddy soon as the night will become a little bit warmer soon I am not French (Canadian actually) but I've been living in France since 2002... Do not hesitate to PM me if you like. *BTW I also have a 3D printer if you ever need to print out something.
  23. For those of us lucky enough to have a 3D printer ... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2762334
  24. Wow I did not expect it to house a big scope ... Must be bigger on the inside
  25. Nice shots I would recomend that you learn about plate solving (using astrotortilla just to name one but there are others) that will save you a lot of time and put your targets dead center. Also, I see that you went for 3200 ISO is there a rational for this setting ? I usually go for 1600 ISO on my modded 1000D.
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