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Vox45

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Everything posted by Vox45

  1. Interesting, I too thought that it was worth next to nothing I will try and sell it then. I did not have any issues with the screws, I was lucky I guess. The price did add up, but the focuser is such a beauty, I can feel the difference in the smoothness of the movement. I do not regret, and it was a xmas gift
  2. Ho that is nice to know. I was a bit disappointed to lose the ability to rotate the focuser ! -> I took the thumbscrew (with a nylon tip) from the original ring and removed a grub screw on the adapter. -> I was able to fit the thumbscrew and now I can rotate the focuser as it use to do. I would still buy the clicklock anyway for its ease of use when swapping/installing my camera so I don't feel bad spending money on it (I sold the old one so the extra cost was minimal) but I feel better knowing I can also rotate the focuser Thanks for your input guy
  3. Hello all, I've decided to document the upgrade of my stock focuser to a Baader Diamond SteelTrack as I ran into some issues and surprises and this might help others avoiding them. 1st surprise : The Baader Diamond SteelTrack does not fit a SW 80ED without an adapter. 2nd surprise: You need to remove one grub screw on the adapter and replace it with the thumbscrew from the original focuser ring to keep the ability to rotate the focuser 3rd surprise: there are no screws supplied with the dovetail shoe (the focuser does not have a dovetail shoe built in, you need to
  4. I sold my Mak 150 and got myself a Mak 180 ... I took a picture before shipping off the 150. Seen here on the old HEQ5 mount.
  5. ok so I see what happened there. The ClickLock I own is not in fact the Baader ClickLock 2956258 but the SW Baader ClickLock M56i 2956256... Unfortunately on many vendors site, the picture shown of the 2956258 look a heck of a lot like the 2956256... One website showed it upside down as well ... So I could tell from the picture that I had not, in fact, the correct clamp ... Ho well, live and learn ... I just bought from FLO the correct clamp that had 10£ off due to a customer return
  6. Hello All, I just received my Baader Steeltrack to replace my stock focuser on my SW ED80. I already own a 2" Baader ClickLock clamp (S58) and it was supposed to be a fit for this focuser. The problem is that once I remove the stock clamp to replace it, the threads are on the inside like so: 1. I loosened the grub screws 2. I can see the threads on the inside 3. Here is my Clicklock ... no way to connect it to the Focuser 4. I tried separating the stock clamp from the bottom piece thinking that I might need it but, either it is stuck or it's
  7. I finally found this one https://www.astroshop.eu/tube-clamps/omegon-100mm-tube-clamps-for-102-660-telescope/p,57288 Looks a bit on the cheap side compared to the primaluce .. but for the price I think I can afford to test it
  8. Sorry to resurrect this thread but have you ever found the flat top rings for your 80ED ?
  9. not me but my daughter in 2014 when I got my first scope, a second hand C6 and then my first real night out
  10. I have to admit that I was a bit put off by a picture I saw of a Cassegrain with an extremely long focuser due to the fact that you need to add multiple extensions like so: On this picture there is almost no more dovetail left ! It looks like it is a nightmare to balance But still, I would love to have the chance to look into one as, like you said, the magnification can be much higher in a Cassegrain and it must kill on planets and the moon
  11. That's what I am afraid of. fortunately I have an SCT focuser on my MAK150 so I will bring it with me when I will meet the vendor to see if it fits... Hopefully it will as it is a 2 hours drive I was also looking at the classical Cassegrain but I don't see a lot of them second hand. I hear they are pretty good and the main advantage is that there is no dewing and it adjust to the temperature quickly since it is an open tube, but how would you compare the view with the Mak180 ? do you see a big improvement ?
  12. I have the opportunity to buy a SkyWatcher Maksutov 180/2700 to replace my gold maksutov 150mm I see that a new SkyWatcher Maksutov 180/2700 has "Skymax" on the tube and the one I am considering buying does not. Does anyone know if there is a difference or is it just a branding name difference depending of the country ? Here is a picture of the Mak I am looking at: I remember seeing somewhere that if I want to replace the visual back with an SCT focuser there was a need to buy an adapter, but the newer Mak did not need that adapter ? Could it be the difference between this one
  13. Hello ! I did not find you delivery to be problematic. In fact I found the pace, tone and presentation quite enjoyable so I would not worry about this as you will get even better with experience. - I did cringe a little when you said M32 instead of M31 for Andromeda - I know this might seem trivial and I do not want to be brutal but since I will be looking close up at your hands, make sure they are well "manicured" I would guess that you work in some kind of mechanical or manual work and I do not want to shame you (I admire people who know how to use their hands!) but it can be
  14. for me it's EKOS on an RPI4. I use Stellarmate. It's a pre-installed and pre-configured image with all the software included, so you just need to put it on an microSD card and you are done. I started with BYEOS but soon wanted to have everything run at the mount so I switched to an RPI and INDI/EKOS to replace all my windows software and ASCOM/EQMOD. I've never looked back since.
  15. You can see a demontration here from the main developper, Jasem
  16. I use the polar alignment routine in Ekos (I run INDI/Ekos) which is a plate solving method like Sharpcap (never used sharpcap so I cannot compare). I cannot stand to have to look through a polar scope on a wet terrain my old knees would not take it anyway ...
  17. Aww thanks for the pictures, I was wondering in term of size what it would look like. I've added a focuser to the MAK and it does make a difference in usability to my taste at least "Cooldown is so much better as well as lack of dewing" is the selling argument
  18. Like they say, going from Windows to Linux is just discovering a new set of problems. I've had my share of problems with Windows, ASCOM and EQMOD, now I have different issues with INDI and Linux; it's not perfect and some will run into "unsolvable" issues with drivers and will have to stop the adventure right there. I was fortunate enough to not run into issues severe enough to make me want to quit. The reason I prefer INDI and EKOS is that I get fast support and reactions from the community. I was bothered by a small detail in the DSLR section and I reported it on the forum, it was fixed
  19. After I was given a Mak180 to test for a couple of month, I was going to "upgrade" my Mak150 (which I love by the way) to the 180 but then I came across some reviews on the classical casgrain that made me doubt. Reading your take on it, I wonder how the classical cassgrain perform on planet as well ? I like to have specialised scopes and I was going for the MAK as a planet and moon killer ... now I am not sure.
  20. I belt modded my previous mount (Sirius = HEQ5) because I found the noise when slewing very annoying ... Of course, my main reason was to improve on backlash but it was a nice side effect
  21. I did not know about the pattern in X-Trans array thanks for the info. "The Fujifilm X-Trans is a CMOS sensor developed by Fujifilm and used in its Fujifilm X-series cameras. Unlike most CMOS sensors featuring a conventional Bayer filter array, X-Trans sensors have a unique 6 by 6 pattern of photosites" I would suggest that you try your luck on the PI forum, they might be able to help you pinpoint the issue. Cheers!
  22. It took 20 seconds on my machine from opening to complete debayer (20,247s to be exact) That single frame is looking good by the way ================================================ Reading 1 image(s): C:/Users/ydelisle/Downloads/DSCF2061.RAF Reading metadata: done Camera ........... Fujifilm X-T3 Timestamp ........ 2020-02-25T21:07:54Z Exposure ......... 60s ISO speed ........ 5000 Focal length ..... 21 mm Aperture ......... f/1 = 21 mm CFA pattern ...... X-Trans GGRGGBGGBGGRBRGRBGGGBGGRGGRGGBRBGBRG Raw dimensions ... w=6384 h=4182 Image geometry ... x
  23. Hello, It is not my experience. I do all the processing (post and pre) in PI and debayering never took more than a couple of seconds per subframe. Can you tell us more about the computer you are using ? or provide the subframe to debayer so I can test how long it takes on my computer ?
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