Trippelforge

PixInsight For every rejected frame it's "X" amount of data loss, that's what I am confused about. But perhaps I am not understanding things correctly. Say I take for example an hours worth of images at 5 minutes each, that's a total of 12 images (obviously). But if due to the longer exposures it caused me to lose say 4-5 images I just lost 1/3 of my data.

Every time I push my exposures time up I tend to lose a lot of data. Mostly due to streaks from satellites, which has caused me to stick to around 45 seconds. How are people doing much longer exposures with so many of the damn things up there?

Hi Steve, Luckily I can solder, but thanks for the offer!

Thank you so much Alan, I really do appreciate your help! Things started to get a bit confusing for me (obviously). I am going to order the first one, L722A as you suggest, excited to get the mount back up and running!

Someone told me they think the actual plug is 2.10 not 2.00mm, the only thing Digikey has in 2.10mm is this: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/switchcraft-inc/L722RA/1289482 It looks kind of odd though due to the angle of the pins. Is there a way for me to check the plug, for instance if I used a gage pin for the inside, and calipers for the outside does that give you exactly what it's suppose to be? That's probably a dumb question, but I want to make sure it's a perfect fit. Thanks for the help!

That's the end that pushes into the hole correct? I need the receiving end that is attached to the mount. I found this, there are few styles listed, not sure of the difference as the images look the same, one says panel mount, the other through hole. Do you think this is the correct part? https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/switchcraft-inc/L722A/241928 This is the other: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/switchcraft-inc/PCL722A/1289408 Anyhow they both have three leads? There are only two wires going to the board.

Can you share the full link, it seems to have cut off the complete URL. Ugh what a pain though, you would think Celestron could simply sell that part. So you are saying worst case I can rig something up as long as it fits the male end of the power supply connector? And I assume solder on the little wires attached to the connector? The bulkhead if I know what you mean is what seemingly broke, but if I could've gotten the entire unit (with board connector) it would've been plug and play obviously. Thanks for the help!

Hey guys! Last night I went to plug in my AVX and the power plug ended up getting stuck and broke the internal connector. I tried searching awhile for simply a replacement, but came up empty handed. I was a bit relieved to find out it was a fairly simple plug and play part (not soldered), but regardless it doesn't come up during searches. Can anyone help me out? Thank you!

I just wanted to share my sons image of the Bubble Nebula. He is 15 and we have shared the hobby for a few years, but this image he did all on his own from start to finish. I am very proud of his final result!

Thank you very much! I do not own a flattener, it's good to know about the distance so I can tweak one to get it correct.

My son and I imaged the bubble nebula last week and once processed I noticed the outer edge stars "streaked". Considering the ones in the center are sharp, I assume it wasn't a tracking issue. Are the images coming out like this due to needing a flattener? Or could it have been caused by something else? Thanks!

I'm about to buy a mini-PC and wanted to grab a portable monitor for it. But something I didn't think about was how well they would work in cold temperatures. I had been using a laptop, and frost would form on it without issue. But with winter quickly approaching things are going to get a little rough here. When the thought popped in my mind I went out and did a bit of research and found you aren't supposed to use LCD's or LED's below freezing. I mean I guess the entire "liquid" part makes since. But I know people shoot below 0'C outdoors with computers, so I figured I should ask what everyone's thoughts / experiences were.

I was hoping that was all it was. I am using Celestrons "all-star" alignment procedure. I tried it with and without prior go-to alignment, it worked night one and two, but wouldn't night 3. I even was able to rough align via polaris in NINA's cross hairs night one and it "sort of" worked on it's own. But then I ended up running all-star anyhow. I asked my son if he entered in or double checked the coordinates and time. He hesitated then said yes... makes you wonder though. =P I did find two guides, one by a user and another very detailed one in an article. I am going to make sure I go step by step and so I don't miss anything. If that doesn't work.... well maybe I was one of the ones who's AVX's didn't make it through QC. What kind of sucks is my son and I are driving 3hrs away Saturday to camp and image in a remote area. It's going to be freezing also... so this should be fun. I used all-star polar alignment (Celestron) a few times (slewing all over). I also did so before and after a go-to alignment just for fun. I even "aligned" it via NINA's crosshairs before just to get close. Worked great as I mentioned! But... now I don't know what's going on. Defective? Missed something? I am going to hope that it was just my failure to turn a rod.

Due to the frustration I ran into last night, coupled with the fact I won't be able to get out for awhile. I wanted to ask this simple, albeit pretty dumb question. I have taken my new mount out 3 times now. Night 1 & 2 I was able to get the polar alignment dead on and had zero issues with tracking. Last night I spent an hour trying to get it to track longer than 15 seconds and couldn't. On Night 1 & 2 I was getting around 2 minutes with it locked on, and didn't even try any longer. Once I took my mount in last night I notice when replacing the counter weight that the bar was wiggling, as it seemingly at one point unscrewed itself a bit, so I am thinking it was loose the entire time I was aligning it. The obvious answer is to go shoot again, but it might be awhile. So I wanted to ask if that could've been why I was having issues? Thanks 😃

Thank you! That really cleared things up for me. I haven't ever even seen anything say an ADU rating before. Is that in the RAW image properties itself? Or do I need to open it in specific software? Anyhow I appreciate all of the help, and thanks for taking the time to break it all down.