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Everything posted by Owmuchonomy

  1. Excellent topic and presentation. I really must dig out my SA100!
  2. Looking at your subs, the whole frame is suffering with oval stars to a point so I guess the tracking/guiding is not optimum. Regarding the corners is it worse on the chip that is the largest?
  3. A lot of hard work has gone into creating one of the largest dark sky areas in Europe (3,600 sq km). It's a great result and well done to all who made it happen. I'll be up at Sutton Bank later to face the press. https://www.darksky.org/uk-dark-sky-reserve/?fbclid=IwAR291jgzyvTEY71ctxV5lDqvmkX9RjbNikRK-rbHSbb181LQ15cCpgNJrjo
  4. I was up at the Obsy waiting for materials for the Planetarium dome on Wednesday and the sky miraculously cleared about 1pm. So I set up the Lunt and took a few full disk clips with the ASI174MM. The seeing was shocking; I don't think I have tried imaging the Sun so low in altitude (I can't do that from home). Anyway, here are the results.
  5. Hi Richard and welcome. Polar alignment is not necessary with that scope or type of mount.
  6. Post a photo please of how you have set it up for eyepiece viewing and we can supply a possible remedy. Daft question, but are you using a mirror diagonal?
  7. I 'upgraded' at the weekend. So far I can't see much difference. Everything I use regularly seems to work just fine. OA Capture fires up just fine too. I may do some lunar work this w/e as the forecast is good so I will give it a thorough testing then. I do have an ancient PC that runs Firecapture but the frame rates I can achieve with @JamesF OAcapture are spectacular so I prefer to use it if possible.
  8. All good advice above. It has to be a fast APO refractor really or just stick with your DSLR and lenses and a Star Adventurer mount. That's a big chip that you will have to fill and achieve a flat field, not an easy option. That discounts Newtonians too without some serious fiddling with focus distances and coma correctors. @vlaivhas given some excellent examples for you to check out.
  9. We do a lot of outreach with the public and families at LTO. Without doubt, the most versatile setup we have is using the SW AZ Gti with a small refractor. In the main we use my SW ED80 and you can get great value from virtually all common astronomical sights in the sky, year round. Any similar refractor will do the same. The AZ Gti will carry a Startravel 125 for example. The set up is portable, user friendly, can be matched with planetarium software (I run the mount with my phone and the children choose GoTo objects on the iPad), and can be run for two nights from one cordless drill bat
  10. If you are polar aligning to support an imaging session then when you come to set up your GoTo (which is independent to PA) do a 2 star alignment on the same side of the meridian as your object of interest. Do not use a 3 star alignment. Use 2 stars that are well separated. In addition, make sure your last adjustments in star centreing are UP and RIGHT.
  11. A nice new active region (2781) creeping around the limb today. Some nice prom activity too, all around the disk. Here are a few images using the LUNT and my ZWO ASI 174MM.
  12. The OP is asking about visual comparisons. If the debate is about imaging then it's a different scenario to that I describe above.
  13. I have an ED80 and a C9.25. The C9.25 naturally takes less effort to achieve a reasonable image scale when viewing. The ED80 would need a very short f/l EP to get the same image scale and this brings its own issues, particularly eye relief. If you widen the debate to SCT vs refractor in general then it becomes more difficult to choose. I am fortunate to also own an ED150; put that against the C9.25 and it's a different matter, the views being very hard to distinguish. If the seeing is poor or there is slight cloud cover, the refractor wins at that aperture.
  14. Mars can be a bit underwhelming visually. I'm sure you have a good idea of how to improve matters but here are a few tips: 1) Wait until its at its highest point in the sky thereby reducing the atmospheric interference 2) Make sure your scope is collimated 3) Use a red filter to improve surface detail views... 4) ...or use an ND filter to cut the brightness (high cloud cover helps attenuate views of bright planets too.) The scope you have should be fine.
  15. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sky-watcher-mount-accessories/skywatcher-eq6-extension-tube.html
  16. I wasn’t really looking for any action last night as the shower is usually a weak one but around 9:30pm just as I arrived home after our bike ride we were treated to an excellent fireball passing between Alkaid and Seginus. The colour was a dominant red. I’m not sure if that is typical of this shower but it was certainly an excellent view. I set up to image Mars later but the skies were quiet although my back was turned toward the radiant. Any others spot anything?
  17. A Flashing LED on this mount is indicative of a voltage drop somewhere in the supply. It would seem the problem is intermittent so I would thoroughly check the connections, cables and PSU. Do both axes rotate freely by hand when the clutch is disengaged?
  18. Sounds to me as though you really want something that will help you find targets. Whilst a manual Dob is great for sucking in the photons as John intimates it requires learning your way around the sky and manually nudging to star hop and keep objects centred. That can be fun in itself so maybe think what your priorities are. I've been through lots of scopes and mounts and still own various options. I now do a lot of outreach and the setup I always fall back on with the public is an 80mm refractor, an AZ Gti mount and an EQ6 tripod, combined with a drill battery and an iPhone App. It is hi
  19. Question 2: For imaging in Ha it is best to use a mono high frame rate planetary camera matched to the focal length of the LUNT 50 such as the ZWO ASI 174MM. A DSLR will give relatively poor resolution because you are only using the red pixels. The LUNT 50 is also a bit tricky to deal with when it comes to back focus so be prepared to experiment and I'm not sure a DSLR will be able to focus. Accurate focusing will be helped a bit by the choice of the FT focuser unit which is a massive improvement on the poor LUNT helical unit. As Peter says above it is a bit of a steep learning curve to im
  20. I'm selling the MAK to thin out my stock. This is a great scope that I purchased in November 2019 from FLO. The quality exceeds the SW equivalent and the aperture is a true 127 unlike the SW. F/l of 1900 makes it a great planet viewing option or spectacular lunar observation tool. It is barely used and comes complete with original packaging, paperwork, unused diagonal, visual back, red dot finder and 26mm plossl. The usual marks on the dovetail and a tiny cosmetic scuff on the paint (shown). I used it on my AZ-Gti and AZ EQ 6 mounts. Pick up preferred from the Harrogate area but shi
  21. Excellent advice above. I have used both the 290 and 174 mono for Solar and Lunar (examples in the link in my signature). In fact I did a comparison on here some time ago. If that is one of your priorities then strongly consider these options. The IR sensitivity of the 290 produces excellent lunar images if a little bit softer than the 174. Or other options for OSC as @vlaiv says.
  22. ASI290. Good ratio at native f/l. Extremely good near IR sensitivity too.
  23. FLO's service is second to none. Regarding your shopping list I would suggest for planetary imaging to reconsider your scope choice predominantly to obtain one that can achieve a much better image scale. Critical to planetary imaging is focal length. For example planetary imaging is routinely conducted at long focal lengths; in my case around 4.6 metres. That may be difficult to achieve with the scope you have chosen so just check a few calculations first. Scopes often used include the SCT or Maksutov designs which can achieve longer focal lengths in a relatively small compact design. Yo
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