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Owmuchonomy

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Everything posted by Owmuchonomy

  1. Looking at the spec, I doubt it. It's an optimised imaging scope so one less thing to worry about. Get it collimated and then practice focusing on a bright star and imaging that before trying something more challenging.
  2. What scope is it? Addition of a coma corrector may have reduced your in focus range considerably.
  3. How will you power the Canon for that long?
  4. Yes, it's visible to me but only since I purchased the SW ED150. The views through that are exceptional. I use a UHC filter too and a 28mm 82' EP (Explore scientific). As you may imagine, the same gear trained on M42 creates an awe inspiring view. I've only tried at home but I will give it a go up at the obsy where the sky is very dark when the chance arises.
  5. ....and magnetic North is not the same as true North by some margin. Identify polaris by using the pointer stars of the plough and the mark 1 eyeball then align the axis of the mount with the star. Then move on to the polarscope. There are also smart phone planetarium apps to help you identify constellations and stars when holding the phone to the night sky.
  6. Could be you can’t get enough in-focus. Are there any superfluous adapters, accessories or tubes between camera body and focuser? I remember with my 130pds I had to have a specially ‘thin’ adapter for my DSLR.
  7. Great story. I've been to Japan about 50 times but never to that shop. There is a whole floor of the Akiba superstore in Akihabara devoted to astronomy (and photography). Takahashi plus Vixen etc. If you are into your RC models there is also an amazing multi floor TAMIYA shop. It used to be in Akihabara but has now moved closer to Ginza. Everything is Tamiya and the prices are less than half of the imported versions. Also easier to fit in a suitcase than an f/13 frac!
  8. Autostakkert can compensate for field rotation. All my solar and lunar images are taken in AltAz mode. Obviously, one has to crop out for missing corners but it’s not much.
  9. Hi. I have the same mount and it is usually very reliable. I will mention the most common cause in my view which is poor power supply. What are you using for your power? Another possibility that I admit to encountering myself is to mount the OTA the wrong way round. This can produce the effect you describe. On my set up and software version it is critical that the OTA is inserted a particular way into the mount dovetail. My understanding is that later versions of the software circumvented this. On my version the objective needs to face away from the 'FREEDOM FIND' lettering on the mount
  10. It’s some time since I battled with this problem but a radial elongation in each corner is generally considered to be a spacing issue. Is the set up you have specified to fill your chip with a flat field? If not it could also be field curvature.
  11. As above plus with some phones you will have to ‘force’ it to focus, i.e., with an iPhone touch the screen where the bright image is to focus and also bring up the exposure control.
  12. Neither mount will be sturdy until one upgrades the tripod. I run my AZ-Gti on an old EQ6 tripod. That's sturdy! I use all sorts of scopes on it, ED80, Lunt solar scope, SW 150 Mak, WO Megrez 90 etc. No AA battery mount in my experience will run or track reliably until the power supply is upgraded. I use my Dewalt cordless drill battery (with its USB charging hood) stepped up from 5V to 12V using an adapter cable. The cable can take 800mA which is more than enough for the mount. One battery will last two nights between charging. Alignment? It's a doddle using the Synscan App on an iPhone
  13. My 7.5 to 21mm zoom earns its living when solar viewing. It's an excellent device for defeating seeing issues during daytime viewing. Small adjustments can help get round the ever changing solar view affected by the elements. Dark sky observing for me requires a handful of fixed focal length EPs, I don't get an advantage with my Lunt zoom. The other slight problem with the zoom EPs I have owned (particularly Baader) is the poor eye relief. The best investment I made was in the TV Delite options; marvellous EPs if you have the budget.
  14. Work backwards from the planetary cam you wish to use to ensure you match the scope to that. You may be better with one of the big SCT options.
  15. Unfortunately the lead time on these is long but in your shoes (I use similar when in the caravan) I would go for this option. Portable and Easily used remotely via a smartphone and you will get pretty decent views. Attach a smartphone with a neat EP holder and you can get great Moon shots. For the price it’s excellent. You will have to pay a lot more to go APO so a little CA will be apparent. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/startravel/sky-watcher-startravel-102-az-gte.html
  16. For imaging one should use a 2 star alignment using 2 stars on the same side of the meridian as your imaging target. A 3 star alignment adjusts for cone error in your set up so it’s more of a compromise. So yes, a 2 star alignment is more appropriate. I use mk 1 eyeball so can’t comment on using APT software.
  17. If you have a Synscan handset then it is all in there. Do a 2 star alignment then use the polar alignment routine option built into the Synscan menu. No need for Polaris or a polarscope but use a relatively high power EP. It will probably take 2 or 3 iterations to get it close enough for imaging.
  18. Great advice above on the book. Don’t be hasty to move on the ED150. If you want to image galaxies it will be spectacular.
  19. Great results are obtainable with an ED80. It has a long pedigree at an affordable price particularly with those starting out in deep sky astrophotography and is perfectly suited to your HEQ5. Have you got some examples of the images you have captured so far that you could share?
  20. Perhaps you could tell us a bit more about the types of targets you wish to capture with your future set up. In that way we can advise you accordingly. Many thanks.
  21. Newtonians on EQ mounts can present uncomfortable eyepiece positions for the observer, necessitating tube rotation within the rings when moving around the night sky. If you can live with that then an 8" Newtonian gives pretty good views (ignore the hype in the Ad). I have no experience of the GoTo software on that mount so cannot comment on accuracy, software support etc.
  22. Quite possibly. I know someone in the Dales who runs his Meade SCT and mount with one of those and swears by it.
  23. I have personal experience of 'Powertanks' whether SW or otherwise and I was very disappointed. They both lasted a few months and gave me 30 minutes maximum when plugged into my HEQ5 Pro. I would concur with that said above and go for a leisure battery option.
  24. If you want to do colour planetary imaging then yes. However, two more things to consider: 1) With the exception of Mars (which is getting much smaller by the day) the other juicy targets are not very well placed at all. So the opportunities to image are somewhat limited for a few years. Jupiter improves gradually over the next 3 years. 2) Your Dob is about f/6 I believe. If so, you will need at least a 2.5x Powermate or decent Barlow to get the required image scale. A rough approximation is to multiply the pixel size of the camera by 4 or 5 to see what f/ you will require.
  25. My first ever astrophotography effort was using a Canon 600D, an EF300mm f/4 lens and an HEQ5 pro mount. I personally wouldn't go heavier than an HEQ5 pro until you have a permanent set up. I built an obsy and installed an AZ EQ6 GT.
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