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RichM63

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Everything posted by RichM63

  1. I have recently discovered that accurately predicting the weather is a complicated affair involving many data sources and combinations. (just ask JF) Looking at tonight's Synoptic Surface Pressure Chart I would hazzard that you should be good to go in your location. and for real time Wind etc you can see what is happening and workout why things may not be quite so simple. It is hellish complicated to absorb and assimilate all the variables in 'my' head, and how they may affect each other, but the Met Office and Universities have people way brainier than I. But I reckon that 'seeing' will be grim. Best, Rich
  2. Just noticed that you are using a Tamron, try knocking down to 50mm below max, ie 350mm. What you lose in direct range can be more than compensated for in PP. (post production) with cropping. Above all, shoot away, try everything, learn things, and apply them, but ENJOYMENT is King, and no one around here will 'attack' someone who genuinely wants to improve. Best Rich
  3. As per Peter. You are in the right ball park.
  4. 7D £300 ~ +- 50,000 I reckon is about the figure to be looking at. Check MPB to see their numbers.
  5. There are a lot of lens choices, but it depends mostly on budget for the project.
  6. If you can get to the + wind jobbie site, look at the storm in the Indian Ocean right now! Link, https://earth.nullschool.net/#current/wind/surface/level/orthographic=-314.55,6.10,362/loc=-2.550,48.386 There is certainly a heck of a lot in this one, brilliant for a freebie. My brain hurts, but in a good way! We'll get there.
  7. Great first go. As a hint, the large grey areas 'mare' should be uniformally 'grey' with no speckled appearance. Too much contrast, microcontast, and sharpening, + brightness, can easily cause this problem. But if you are using RegiStax I suspect an over cooking of 'Wavelets'. In your processing aim for NO speckles even if this means that you think you are losing detail. You are not, but just producing the best image at that time. Looking at it, your pic above has a good chance but you need to hone your PP skills, and that is my ongoing battle. (for Lunar, check out JohnFoster UK he is taking some pretty good single stacked images)
  8. If for any reason John above backs out (we live in hope) I'll certainly take the DMK 21 and up the ante to £60. John naturally has first dibs and was rightly the first responder. best to John and FLO. (would need confirmation from John that he was no longer interested). A+, Rich
  9. That's the one! Now to engage the other brain cell and battle on with the Meteo Course.
  10. Pic 2 for me. Ah ha, I see that you might have been looking at the Artists Impressions of Exo-Planets on WK 3 Orion.
  11. As a base, why not try ISO100, 1/100, f11, you should get more detail. Best, Rich
  12. Corr, what a lovely image! Nice one.
  13. It is just nice to see an early evening Moon tonight! Some serious 'clagg' might be on its way over. Warm and very WET!
  14. Way back when I was young, working in a specialist photographic dealers, one of the 'perks' of my Saturday job was explaining to the customer that 'No we had not cocked up' and that in reality that 'slightly' brighter area to the right side of the photo is in fact the Moon that you shot with a 200mm zoom and 2x, 2x teleconvertors with ASA200 film. Best job I have ever had. Now looking into the cupboards for Yashica, Canon, Minox etc that I know are here somewhere.
  15. Lovely images, but pic 2 is blatant advertising! What a great family time. Kudos. Rich
  16. Oh heck, this is bad news. I have the same lens, assorted bodies, tripods, but don't have an SA. I'm 'doomed', or at least slightly compromised. Agreed, virtually all lenses benefit from not being wide open in any situation, but f8 with this lens in low light might be a step too far and 'dof' at this distance is not such an issue. My Sigma is certainly crisp at f5.6 in Macro bug mode during the day. PS, invest in a Battery grip if possible, makes life a whole lot easier. Best, Rich
  17. Many eons ago, I used to go fishing up at Waskerley Reservoir in C/Durham your neck of the woods. If you want 'Wild' in the middle of Winter, it certainly is, heck it is only slightly less 'Wild' in the middle of July. Great Trout BTW.
  18. This is probably why I don't live up to my name, but if it is the £22 filter in your classified I wouldn't bother with the % at your end. The buyer will already have a reasonably hefty conversion charge from Euro to Sterling, but you should go to your post office with the item to get their charges before agreeing on a price with the buyer. ie your £22 could easily be £40 inc signed for postage at your end. Regards Hassle, there isn't any at all within the EU or Euro zone, but that may well change for you fairly soon!
  19. Yes Alan, it just so happens that when I bought the ST80 from KOCS + vid camera etc, that this filter for the ST80 was in the mix. As it is, it fits the big zooms . As luck would have it!
  20. My Astro' mounts are all EQ. No problem at all. I even occasionally use the EQ3/2 for wildlife photography. Try tracking a swimming Duck in RA/DEC with the hand controls whilst gripping a cable DSLR release between your teeth! Most times, folk stop to ask questions and see if they can have a go through the view finder. All good fun. Rich
  21. TBH, I would not buy of the bay unless the seller is local to you and you can physically drive to them. £150 is not going to get you into 700D territory just yet but the 600/650/700 are great starter and enthusiast cameras as Alan has already mentioned. I do have a 700D in the fridge. Regards shutter count AFAIK neither the 4 digit series nor the 3 digit cameras 1100D/700D display this in the menus, what you need to hope is that the 'seller' has used continuous file numbering for their pictures. When you go to view the camera naturally you will take a few shots with it. Now look at the picture number for the shot you have just taken. Most normal and honest sellers will have left this default in place and will not have 'clocked' the camera. Otherwise look at the condition of the rubber grips, the rear right side rubber should be full of dimples and be dullish. If it is smooth and shiny the camera has been well used. I do have a 400D also in the fridge where the right side rear rubber has worn through! Places to look, Classifieds on here, reputable dealers, MPB, Ffordes, London C Echange etc, with the dealers you will have security and in my experience total honesty when spending your hard earned. Cheers, Rich
  22. So there is hope for me yet. Thanks guys.
  23. I'm stumped. I used a Baader filter on my 150-600 at 600mm. Took a whole series of RAWs. Passed through Pipp then AS2 then into PP, but I'm stumped. (f16, ISO 100, 1/100, histo looks reasonable) What parameters do I need to look at in order to try to drag out some details. The image below is totally devoid of any detail at all. Cheers, Rich
  24. Well I did use your 'Menu' to get thus far.
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