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SteveNickolls

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About SteveNickolls

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  • Birthday 16/11/54

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    Nottingham UK

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  1. Well done. Have you thought of trying at lower ISO values, there's information on the Canon 100D here-http://sensorgen.info/CanonEOS-100D.html and the different electron saturation levels at the various ISO values? With your f/1.8 lens you are hoovering the photons fast. Cheers, Steve
  2. There's something special about a monochrome image and galaxies that ticks lots of boxes. Well done :-) Cheers, Steve
  3. Thanks for the heads up on this :-) Cheers, Steve
  4. Hi, this site compares the two models for you-http://blog.parkcameras.com/2016/03/canon-1300d-vs-canon-1200d-review.html#comparisontable. Some of the differences have implications when astro-imaging, others not. The 1300D has a greater rear screen resolution (920k v 460k on the 1200D) but neither can swivel which can be very handy when your telescope is as a funny angle. The 1300D has wi-fi and NFC (near field connectivity) to some Android devices. These may or may not be useful to you as capture methods. Little difference in weight, continuous shooting capability or number of chip pixels. There's quite a jump in price range to the 700D, 750D and 760D which have the swivel screen with the 700D onwards having rear touch screens and 750D onwards with wi-fi and NFC and greater number of chip pixels (if that's a beneficial thing) at just over 24Mpx. Hope this helps you in your decision. Cheers, Steve
  5. Hi Victor, thanks for posting. Your images show good round stars and colour, well done. The backgrounds show you imaged somewhere dark :-) At 50mm with a static tripod you should be able to increase your exposure to 10 seconds without affecting the star's shape, that increased exposure time will improve the signal somewhat. If you can reduce the f/ratio of the lens it will allow much more light into the pictures over the short period you can currently expose for, that will help quite a lot with improving signal too. As you can't control the temperature of your camera while imaging taking dark frames will probably not improve things for you and taking enough (say x50) would just eat into imaging time. Experiment. I'd also advise taking say x50 flat frames and x 50 bias frames and include them in your stacking software. At the end of the day you are doing well from a 50mm lens. Both your subjects are not centred in your FOV, it doesn't matter much but I often find doing a test shot or two (if you have Live View) to check positioning helps with the final composition. Getting familiar with your processing software to tease out fainter portions of a subject will also improve your final images. The great thing about imaging is you can go back time after time to rework images as your experience increases. Wishing you many more clear, dark skies, Steve
  6. Ahh, the more down the techhie slope you venture the more susceptable to outages you become. Seriously I hope you have better luck next time out. Cheers, Steve
  7. Hi, I wouldn't be so hard on yourself or your gear. You've been able to capture galaxies that would be rather faint and tiny through a telescope or not visible at all. Well done. Cheers, Steve
  8. They missed a trick not showing how Dara got to take his photo, it could have introduced a host of interested new people into wide view astro-photography. We need more views of the night sky there, so much to see. There was mention of cyclone Debbie possibly interfering with conditions in the nights to come. I wish 'em well. Cheers, Steve
  9. You are in the right location happy-kat, the green object is M97 I would say going by the nearby stars patterns and the spindle shaped object is a likely M108 (Surfboard galaxy). Stellarium shows Tuttle to be nearby but perhaps just out of frame. Don't know the time of your imaging. Well done anyway. Can I ask the details of the imaging? Cheers, Steve
  10. A good camera Ian, adjustable 'Live View' screen and touch screen capability. Enjoy. Cheers, Steve
  11. The new LEDs can be bright. Our council hasn't replaced the original glass lamp covers and one light on the road throws a strange fractured light pattern while the rest give an even downwards glow. If we lived closer to it something would have to be done to stop the glare into bedrooms. The council didn't replace the posts or the timing mechanisms either so our lights don't go off in the wee hours. I'd be happy with no lights and no one champions the facts and studies that show that crime does not increase when he lights are dimmed or switched off, even the criminals it seems are afraid of the dark. I do despair of the names in UK astronomy not doing more to champion darker skies. Cheers, Steve
  12. Hi, this could be a solution, not cheap though-http://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/geoptik-slr-hotshoe-synta-finderscope-adaptor.html I use one for fixing a right angled finder to my camera (see image). Never used it for a guider though. Whatever you plump for good luck with your imaging. Cheers, Steve
  13. Has pie in the sky turned into pie tomorrow, sounds like it? Cheers, Steve
  14. Thanks for confirming the capability of the mount Ken for alt-az work. I know what you mean about loud slewing and being outside at night time. Good luck with the AVX by the way. Cheers, Steve
  15. Thanks so much for your account of the mount's tracking over an imaging period Ken, it's such a difficult point to establish without user feedback and the little foibles that can creep in now and again. I'm interested in what you've said about the battery performance issue you experienced as being battery powered was a plus point for the mount, adding to its potential for portability. I'm pleased you think a recharge between sessions would be ok for it, that's good news. I've got similar issues with balancing with the SkyWatcher Synscan alt-az mount and my telescope set up is quite back heavy but as this season I've been mostly imaging with just with a camera and lens (no telescope) that has not been an issue to resolve immediately. I ought to get a longer dovetail for when I do go back to using the telescope. Can I ask what exposure lengths you have managed to get with your Evo set up Ken? I find my SkyWatcher Synscan is ok to around 60 seconds for favorably positioned objects and returns very high percentages of frames acceptable to use in DSS. At 70 seconds the mount's design starts to let it down and the percentage of stackable frames plummets. Cheers, Steve