tooth_dr

I’m not sure. There is disagreement about it, and I’ve tried various combinations and can’t really see much difference. There are subtle differences I am sure but I can’t physically see them and my processing probably isn’t skilled enough to take advantage of them. It doesn’t seem to be detrimental using bias so I just continue out of habit as I did with my CCD.

Thanks Alan. Its definitely got some grain, but I didnt do any noise reduction at all on the image. I'm been using FLATS, DARK FLATS, DARKS and BIAS, and didnt dither.

Thank you, it holds up well even at full resolution. Im in a Bortle 4 according to maps. I live in a rural area, but unfortunately there are a number of LED lights in some houses around 400-800 yards away. I was experimenting with a LPF because typically I image south over the nearby town 5 miles away, and there is a good old bit of sky glow. I also have a clear filter that I intend to also try as a comparison. I think I'll try a few subs on this with the clear filter next.

Thank you!

Thanks Stuart, appreciate it.

Coupled with good optics, these new sony-based CMOS cameras are pretty incredible. I am impressed for just 60 minutes of data. I'm trying to gather more and some Ha, so this is just a quick workup of the data. APM LZOS 105/650 RICCARDI 0.75x REDUCER ZWO 2600MC IDAS P2 LPF MESU e200 30 x 120s subs SG PRO / APP / PS CS Adam

Hi Chris That was a very watchable tutorial, and not only did I learn how to make a brush signature, I now know how to align text boxes! Many thanks Adam

That is excellent! I think the mosaic worked out perfectly.

Ah I see, thanks for that. That’s different from the ZWO version that I have (and also different from the 268 mono version, which has built in tilt plate too!)

What’s a CAA?

Congrats on the purchase. I am also very keen to see how the camera works out. I agree it does look a bit less robust and there also doesnt seem to be any way to adjust the faceplate of the camera to correct tilt. Whats the back focus camera, looks to be less that 17.5mm?

Nicely done Reggie, a very worthwhile endeavour. Adam

Lovely! Nebulosity started to show nicely.

Yes I think this is right. ZWO are different and have the option to turn it on and off. When I turn my ZWO on it causes a mild rippling effect on my monitor screen, so the current much be doing something funny

No I mean is there a 2” nosepiece attached to the OAG or how is it attached to the telescope focuser?

The 1600 has a short sensor-flange distance doesn’t it at 6.5mm FW = 20mm OAG = 16.5mm Camera = 6.5 43mm leaving you 13mm to work with. That adapter linked is about 3mm?

What’s in the OAG?

I use mine and change the balls as required. They turn dark green when saturated. There is nothing to lose by using the tube but a lot to gain keeping the sensor area free of moisture. I find my QHY is more susceptible to dew than my equivalent ZWO. My camera lives in a dome which is dehumidified 24/7 I leave mine on default, think it’s 80. I *think* it’s more relevant to fast frame rate collection such as lunar imaging.

In the first photo it looks like the OAG has a 2” nosepiece attached and is inserted into the drawtube?

Need to see actual results, and whether the images are actually halo free in all scenarios. If Baader can’t deliver halo-free, I’ll be surprised if Optolong can, but who knows! Having said that I found my previous Optolong NB filters excellent performers.

A very fine image Martin.

CC MPCC inside drawtube

Is that a 2” drawtube? The CC goes inside it.

No it goes on the end left side

Can you set it up like below?