tooth_dr

Thanks, and that single sub was taken on the 21st June, with no astro darkness.

Thanks Robin. It does work really well, just very critical of tilt and focus.

Big thanks for Steve for being able to help me out. I've added found to the title.

The link that attaches to the shutter door broke this evening. Would anyone have any idea where to get a link? Pulsar presumably used commercially available chain, but where to start? Thanks! Adam

I have two KAF-8300 cameras and run them successfully with both 1.25” and 2” filters in Atik EFW2 and EFW3 respectively. I have used 1.25” filters down to F4.7 with no issues correcting the vignetting. I currently use the 2” filters with an F2.8 scope. The carousels can be changed easily in the Atik EFWs (and prob in other brands too). The EFW2 comes with a 5x2” carousel so you can’t fit the full set of NB and LRGB filters in 2” but it does come as 9x1.25”. I bought the EFW3 as it comes with a 7x2” carousel.

Thanks Robin. Panel on left was one sub and panel on right 3 subs. I’m using the same camera as you, an Atik 383L+.

Wonderful images and website. Next level stuff.

Yes I studied your crop for a few minutes but couldn’t quite orientate myself! Thanks for the clarification. Stunning image above too 👍🏻

Lovely image Brendan. I noticed a similar wispy area in my Sadr image and was intrigued by it. Would you have a way of showing where that is relative to Sadr?

That looks real nice Rodd, I'm sure it will print well. The 6200 has almost twice the sensor size so stands to sense it would print out larger more easily.

The price differential to having them off is probably so small it's almost incidental.

Thank you! I'm still surprised how good it looked given that one panel was taken on the 21st June, and there was no astro darkness at all. The scope has a lot of potential.

Unfortunately the advent of LEDs means it probably costs next to nothing to run these lights compared to the old fashioned 500W halogen bulbs.

This has been my June project. 4 x 20 minutes subs from the Tak Epsilon with an Ha filter. I didnt really plan on a mosaic but I was just manually aligning it whilst I was trying to get everything setup in a new obsy (and and a new profile - in SGP there seems to be two places that you have to enter the same data). I used SGP autofocus and was pleased that it seems to be working well. I need an earlier night to sit out and do proper configuration of the pier etc. I didnt do much processing of it, just stacked in APP, and processed lightly in PS. Thanks! Adam.

Thats a very decent result for NB with a OSC given the short exposure time and the sky conditions. I've had a very brief play around with Topaz, but I was just using the default lightest Raw setting and even that is too much I think. Any pointers

I have the Atik EFW2 and the Atik EFW3, and would never consider darks unless at night, as I use a reflector and light gets in the bottom anyway. For normal purposes the Atik dont leak light.

I have two Atik EFWs, but couldnt be sure if they are light tight with respect to shooting darks during the daytime. There are just too many opportunities for light leakage

Mine did this too recently, so funny seeing a post about it! i trimmed mine and have been fine since. I did use spray on contact adhesive under these mats in another shed and that has worked well.

Nice improvisation and images. Thanks for sharing.

Damn I wish I had thought of that 😆

External pressure tuner. My main gripe with my Lunt was finding the sweet spot using the stiff pressure tuner knob whilst trying to see the computer screen at the same time. This should eliminate this issue plus it allow me to initiate and control solar imaging sessions remotely when at work.

This is my experience, for 2 panels manual is fine, but using software is easier and reliable for anything larger. I use SGP for mosaics and it works well.

I’m the same, went from DSLR to mono. Funny I find NB easier, but I find LRGB is tricky! Unfortunately once the noise gets put in during processing it’s not easy to remove it at the end. I don’t use PI. I literally scaled the RGB to match the Lum and added it in a few goes at 20% opacity. Done in photoshop

Hi Martin, that is nice @Jkulin John is trying to configure his 120 to a new 2.2m dome, and maybe you could point him in the right direction? Adam.

Hi Jason I really really like the smoothness and the detail of the first green image, but I do prefer the colours in the second one. Unfortunately it looks a lot noisier that the original version though. I hope you dont mind I had a go bash at your data. I made the first 'green' image mono, and used it as a luminance layer for the second image. Adam