AstroAndy

By now, I own the Atik 314L, the 383L Plus, and the 16200, and am love them all (which is not to say that I don't love my ASI 294mm pro, and the 2 120 s).

Now that's a righteous Andromeda.

Wow, I came for the stars, and stayed for the faerie landscape.

I bet I can get a nicer Pelican, and in less time, too. All I have to do is go to the zoo, and never ever point a telescope at the sky. 😂 Siriusly (see what I did there) good, or, in other words, more of the same. The clouds drove me slightly mad, lol.

Hello Folks I'm wondering about a Focus question. This concerns the C11 Edge HD. If, eg., I am at perfect focus with a 0.7 reducer, and I take the reducer out, I assume I'd have to refocus out (in this type of SCT it means moving the primary mirror further away from the initial focus point, ie. lengthening the distance, as a reducer converges the light beam more more than native focal length. Is my assumption correct? Is there a approximate rule as to refocus distance (eg. say I have an EAF at position 1000, with reducer, refocus has to be at approximately position 1,250)? Celestron says, once the required back focus of 146.05mm is reached, this works the same w/ and w/out reducer. Additionally, how does a Barlow affect this equation. Barlow lens a bit before back focus, and cam. a bit after? I can't use daytime focus, because Atik cams. kick in at 0.02 lowest exposure settings. Regards Andy

I'll buy it, with some remodeling this could be reworked into a world-class house-observatory. 😁 Awesome pic.

Wow.

Yup, and that's from someone who routinely lugs around upwards of 150 pounds of equipment.

Welcome to SGL, Joshua.

Like it was said up there, given the difference in kit, there is nothing to complain about. It's a good rendition, has color and detail, NGC 6121 came out crisp and well.

These should be in a book.

No. 2 LRGB

Here are my 2 images (one w/o, and one with ha). Ha was started out with an Arc-h sin stretch in Fits Liberator. Base img. (tifs, not fully stretched) triplicated and masked as layers in. Photosh., to work separately on stars and DSOs, then further refinement for color, sharpness, and a star layer (RGB) to bring out star color, ha integrated into red (split channels), selective noise removal. No.1 LhaRGB

Sounds good...always worth to check in the device manager, if you can see your device there, it's good on the computer end. In this business, it's a process of elimination...the answer is always in the last place you look (because after finding it, you won't look any further 😁 ).

Hi Paul Here is what I would do. 1) Make sure I have the updated version of APT (on the right bottom of the main screen, you'll see a "USB Monitor, which allows you to see which devices (cam.) are actually connected. 2) After having installed all the native and Ascom drivers for your cam. hold down the shift key so you can choose a cam from the dropdown menu which appears. 3) Choose your cam and it's attributes (connecting to Ascom, whose little dialog box will pop up. 4) Hit ok, and under the main screen, APT should tell you that the cam is connected, and also display it's stats. 5) Once connected, this cam. will always be the first choice for APT , unless you hit the shift key on the keyboard while clicking connect. Good luck Andy

Hello all I was wondering about the best & most practical (and least troublesome) way to set up my C11 for planetary imaging. The thing is, I have it perfectly set up for DSO imaging, and want to change this setup as little as possible. What I would like to do is put my one of my Barlow lenses directly behind the filterwheel (in this case, a 1.25 Atik EFW2), as it connects beautifully to my ZWO ASI 120-s. My questions are: 1) Is it feasible to put the Barlow lens (element) close to the focal plane, or at it (where the sensor would be), or would I need to set it for a wider dispersion? 2) What influence does a Barlow lens have on the backfocus of a system (Now, I'm set up perfectly with a backfocus distance of about 146mm, including the reducer, which I I would take out, as I understand the backfocus will be the same without it)? 3) What adapter is needed to mate my 1.25" filterwheel to the Barlow (lens element) as there is no thread on the lens element. My reasoning is this: Setting the Barlow-Cam. system behind the filterwheel (away from , and not towards the scope means I don't have to monkey around with the spacing before the filterwheel. It would also make focusing easier, since I probably have to start with a bigger sensor camera to get centered and focused, and gradually work my way to the smaller sensor camera (or Barlow Cam. combination), recentering and focusing in small increments. Regards Andy Imaging train and Cam-Barlow combo:

Hi Peter Some pictures deserve more than a quick push of the like button, like this one. Awesome detail one of the best I've seen. Andy

I guess one could say the satellite trails "Petered out" in this final amazing image.

Awesome pic., Peter.

Thanks, Peter, even though I'm not altogether happy with it, I guess it's an image. 🙂 Even binning x2, the color came out horrible (probably due to me forgetting to set my image plan to 30x1 min in green, so I got 6x 5min. frames and the green overwhelmed the image) One gremlin I thought I didn't have to worry about anymore, camera rotation, snuck back in, and that didn't help matters.

Hhm didn't come out quite like I wanted, but I guess that's what you get for only about 30-35 min. of exposure for each color channel to the 2:35hrs luminance image during non astro darkness. M101, the "Pinwheel Galaxy". Sadly, the ha has to be binned, and not 2x2, either.

Hi Fabian Have a look at this video, maybe it'll help.

Came a little late to the party, but here are my 2 cents worth, one without, one with ha.

Hi All I've finally packed up the big boy rig for the summer, and since there is preciously little to do, I've reprocessed this one a little bit gaudier, one gets bored during the summer months. Now maybe on to more widefield views with the medium boy, lol (EQ5, ASI 294mm pro, ASI 120 s, QHY5 and Canon lenses ).

That's how mine was supposed to look, had I shot it correctly, way back when with a DSLR. 😂