Jump to content



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

64 Excellent

1 Follower

About kookoo_gr

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. One question about the eq6-r that bugs me for some time. Can i remove the handle the mount has during imaging and screw it back when transporting? It is in the way of my filter wheel usb cable when the mount slews past the point of the handle and i don't want to damage anything
  2. This is the imaging setup i have for my skywatched80. It is an atik 383l+, atik efw2, atik oag, pegasus falcon rotator and astrotech 2'' flattener. As you can see from the image in order to focus i need to have almost all the drawtube racked inside with very little room for autofocus adjustment. I managed this by shortening the imaging system as much as possible and i replaced my baader clicklock with a low profile focus ring from primaluce. The biggest issue i have with this setup is that my camera is too heavy (2.6 kg) for the focus ring and i have hard time tightening it
  3. I think this must also be the case because last night i had similar behavior with my mount evem though it's connected directly to my pc and the rotator not working with NINA and SGP
  4. This the third time or fifth time, i have lost track at this point that sgp has given me serious trouble at my imaging session and each time has a different issue and also i want to vent some steam. I am trying to image ic 343 and the flame nebula for over a year. I have some L 1x1 data and some RGB 2x2 but i wanted to get more data. I finally got some clear weather and started to image some RGB bin 2x2 data. I set up my gear and i try to slew to IC 343. That's when thing start to go wonky. My mount started to slew and then stop, slew again and stop, this happened four times and i got a messag
  5. Could those issues you mentioned be caused from not having the camera properly aligned? I believe i took this image before the primary collimation
  6. I redid the collimation combining Davie's and Nicolas' methods and here are the results. First of all i had to spend over half an hour alligning the camera with the scope in order to collimate the primary mirror. Even though i collimated the primary mirror, i had to make adjustments with a star in order to fine tune it. The secondary was also a bit tricky since i had issues aligning the camera with the hole, so i did the collimation as best as i could and hoped for the best. As for the focuser i checked and adjusted its alignment after the primary collimation was done When
  7. Don't worry Dave i will try your method, i have made a plastic disc and i will try it now that i am on vacation, the only problem is we will have bad weather until Saturday. Also i am making plans of turning a metal collimator like Nicolàs has at his site and will screw at the M90 ring i mentioned, so that i will eliminate any errors from loose elements and be able to use the tak collimator or the HG laser
  8. I can't tell the difference because i went direrctly for the ADM since i have at my ehq5 pro an adm saddle. I can't tell about import taxes for UK since i live in Greece but i did pay import taxes when it came in the mail. If you order from the US contact them and make sure they package the saddle with extra protection, mine came a bit banged up.
  9. I have the adm saddle and it is amazing. The scope is rock solid on the mount and i can easily balance the scope on the saddle. The only drawbacks it has if you can call them drawbacks are that it is heavier than the stock saddle and the counterweight bar extends a few mm when you want it fully retracted.
  10. From my collimation attempts the last months i found the following issues i had not considered at all 1. In order to have my camera centered at my focuser drawtube i used a baader clicklock which is great but with a major issue i found while collimating my scope. The 2'' barrel of the clicklock has a groove for better use with the brass strip the focusers use in order not to scratch any accessories placed in the focuser and it is a few mm away for the main body. When placed in the focuser drawtube and tightened it will always be out of alignment and this will affect the focuser alignment.
  11. After many days of setbacks i got back on my rc 8 i redid the collimation with a tak collimation scope for the secondary and my howie glatter for the primary and went outside for my tests. I rechecked the distance with the ronchie eyepiece and this the result i have, i believe that the distance is correct now and pic show me at 1634.93 mm with a resolution of 0.681 arcsec/px I redid the collimation to the best of my power at the field and gave a shot to collimating my scope with the help of ccdinspector. The end result is not perfect but next time i will try to redo th
  12. I have used a pi under high humidity (as many others on this forum), almost 100% within its case, on my scope and i didn't have overheating issues (the temperature of the pi was near 60C if memory sreves me right) nor any significant condensation. Granted, you will use it 24/7 i believe it may be of concern during the summer days (if the scope is directly under the sun) but then again you will not be using any applications that will need lots of processing power to overheat the pi, especially if you use it to record temp/humidity. Even if you place it (with its case) at a metal surface th
  13. Wouldn't it be better if you placed the hub,pi, power supply on top of the scope? You will save a lot of space, cables and they will be far better protected form the weather and any accidents with cable snagging when placed at the legs
  14. thanks for the comment, i will use metal and not 3d print them, they are only for sanity check of the dimensions. One idea that popped into mind. With this method we remove the focuser and collimate only the mirrors and at the end we align the focuser with the mirros in order not to have any errors the focuser may introduce. Would it be possible to use the howie glatter collimator in the place of the light source in this method and collimate the mirrors?
  15. Thanks for your reply nicolas. I made a design for 3d printing (in various formats)for sanity check of the dimensions you posted. I think i will have some adapters turned too since colimation is giviing a headache right now and the plastic ring didn't help at all. Maybe i am doing something wrong and i will try to follow your instructions colimation adapter obj.zip colimation adapter slt.stl colimation adapter svg.svg
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.