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About kookoo_gr

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  1. I have been thinking in upgrading my heq5-pro for quite some time and i am leaning towards the Avalon m-uno for my RC8'' and ed80 scope. I have browsed avalon's site, read a few reviews which are a few years old, even though they are praising the mount but nothing new (eg 1 or 2 years ago). But before i ask avalon i would like if anyone can give me an on-hands experience with the mount and answer me a couple of questions. 1. For my equipment i use 13.5V/5A, would this voltage be enough for the mount? 2. What integration does the mount have with other software? I use eqmod (duh), Cartes du ciel and SGPro with future thought of using Indilib/Ekos. 3. I use a mini pc which i connect via wifi hotspot to my samsung tablet, i know there two versions a wifi and a bluetooth one, one with use with android and the other with ios, what are the connection options to a pc? And for that matter how do you operate the mount? 4. I image with an atik 383l+, atik efw2, sx-lodestar will i need any extensions for the scopes i have (from what i saw i may need for the ed80) or any extra counterweights for my rc8''? Sorry if my questions are a bit basic or don't make sense but i haven't found any other operational information for this mount or any manual for that matter in order to have a more compete picture
  2. i made an hdmi dongle with 3 76Ω resistors at a vga to hdmi adaptor and it worked my connection does not crash. guess i'll order an hdmi dongle. Thank you very much for your help
  3. i took a look at the stick's bios and i don't see any option for hdmi, but looking the web as hugh's suggestion intel says that the sticks are set to work without hdmi, keyboard or mouse. I will definitely look at the dummy hdmi plug but will also wait for more answers if available
  4. i use a 12v-5v 5A dc-dc converter for the intel stick when in the field which i also use for a RPi and i have no issue with it. I also used the stick's factory main power supply and i had the same problem so i guess power supply isn't an issue
  5. I am setting up an intel compu stick for my imaging setup. It has win 10 home and i installed realvnc 5.3 for remote control from my tablet. The problem i face is that when i connect to the stick, realvnc at my tablet/phone seems to crash this only happens when the stick is not connected to an HDMI port aka my tv, when i connect the stick to my tv and start remote control of the stick with realvnc i have no issue. Can anyone help me with this problem?
  6. I managed to take a few more pictures and i would like your opinion, photos are 15sec iso800 f2.8
  7. The last months i've been testing with INDI/EKOS and i fell in love with its polar alignment tool, it is similar with polemaster and the PA i get is amazing. Unfortunately since it has some issues with drivers for my equipment i am thinking of going back to Win but my biggest pet peeve is the polar alignment of my mount. I don't want to spend money on another camera right now so i am interested in software that can achieve the same thing like polemaster with the use of my imaging camera, i know there is the pro version of sharpcap but i don't think it can use the atik 383l+. I would like any suggestions about an equivalent software for polemaster.
  8. A couple of months ago i bought for my canon eos 450d a samyang 14mm f2.8 and i am struggling with a halo/comma issue. When i take images at f2.8 even though i am focused i have at the stars a halo/comma which is not uniform at the whole image. If i take images at f4 this issue is not that much visible. The lens is brand new with no visible problems (aka hits) and i use no adaptors for the camera. Also the focusing for this lens is at the 2-3 m mark on the ring rather than infinity is this normal? i would like some opinions on the matter before i return the lens. here is a sample image at 15sec iso800 f2.8
  9. from the moment you establish a connection to your pc via the hand controller it becomes obsolete, you have control of your mount via CdC and EQMod. In order to center the star at your FOV you use EQMod with the help of a joystick/gamepad, once you center the star at your FOV, CdC has a button at the toolbar that says sync, before pressing that button you must first click on the star you are centered so the program will select that star as an alignment star. CdC only needs a location and the time for slewing to a target. APT is short for Astro Photography Tool a software for capturing images via DSLR. Plate Solving is a method where using software the computer calculates form a captured image the celestial coordinates and syncs the mount, it is a very useful method at astrophotography for pointing and framing.
  10. After you install EQMOD and CdC make sure that at both programs the location is set up. After that make sure you disable the limits on the mount, i have them disabled but they exist in case you want to protect your equipment from any accidental hit of the scope to the tripod, also the mount will stop in case it hits the meridian, i think this is what happened at your case the scope slew past the meridian and then the limits kicked in and the mount stopped. The way to reset is to park the mount, and then unpark. EQMod has a polar alignment tool. The way this works is to have the limits disabled and through that tool first set a home position for the polar scope and then perform a polar alignment, after that you can sync and slew to your target via CdC. When it comes to CdC you can select a target via the program for the mount to slew and then perform a sync action via the icon in CdC. What i do is first is via EQMod to reset the sync data and then go to a star, center it at my camera and then sync at CdC.
  11. Thank you very much for your help, i was worried that my camera was going to die
  12. I have been away from astrophotography for about 2 years and i started again this year. I have an atik 383l+ and i have these strange vertical lines at the lower right corner of my images, this started 3 years ago when i stopped imaging and i didn't give much thought to it since i had other things to deal with. Now that i started imaging again this problem is more prominent and it appears when i power my camera via dc-dc step up circuit to 13.5 volts from a 12v battery and from a mains power supply. Can anyone tell me if it is serious, for the time being i can remove them with dark frames but i am afraid this is going to get worse. The following photo is a bin 2x2 300 sec with no cooling but even with cooling on the lines exist
  13. i am intersted in buying this hub from startech https://www.startech.com/uk/Cards-Adapters/USB-3.0/Hubs/7-port-usb-3-hub~ST7300U3M i would like to know if anyone uses it at the field with a 12v battery and if possible if they know the input power range, i am thinking of boosting the input voltage to 13.5v as i have with my mount and camera and i don't have any issues. From an email i sent startech they quoted me the specs from the product that only says 12v input voltage
  14. Thanks for your input vlaiv i will keep them in mind for my tests
  15. Olly you have a good point and it never crossed my mind. I will try binning my images and see what i come up with before buying a reducer
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