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About kookoo_gr

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  1. Could those issues you mentioned be caused from not having the camera properly aligned? I believe i took this image before the primary collimation
  2. I redid the collimation combining Davie's and Nicolas' methods and here are the results. First of all i had to spend over half an hour alligning the camera with the scope in order to collimate the primary mirror. Even though i collimated the primary mirror, i had to make adjustments with a star in order to fine tune it. The secondary was also a bit tricky since i had issues aligning the camera with the hole, so i did the collimation as best as i could and hoped for the best. As for the focuser i checked and adjusted its alignment after the primary collimation was done When i did my star tests i had bad seeing and some wind so i am not sure about the quality of the images but ccdinspector and pix show good results even though there is some small aberation at the lower right corner which might be due to bad sky conditions and/or maybe being slighlty off focus.
  3. Don't worry Dave i will try your method, i have made a plastic disc and i will try it now that i am on vacation, the only problem is we will have bad weather until Saturday. Also i am making plans of turning a metal collimator like Nicolàs has at his site and will screw at the M90 ring i mentioned, so that i will eliminate any errors from loose elements and be able to use the tak collimator or the HG laser
  4. I can't tell the difference because i went direrctly for the ADM since i have at my ehq5 pro an adm saddle. I can't tell about import taxes for UK since i live in Greece but i did pay import taxes when it came in the mail. If you order from the US contact them and make sure they package the saddle with extra protection, mine came a bit banged up.
  5. I have the adm saddle and it is amazing. The scope is rock solid on the mount and i can easily balance the scope on the saddle. The only drawbacks it has if you can call them drawbacks are that it is heavier than the stock saddle and the counterweight bar extends a few mm when you want it fully retracted.
  6. From my collimation attempts the last months i found the following issues i had not considered at all 1. In order to have my camera centered at my focuser drawtube i used a baader clicklock which is great but with a major issue i found while collimating my scope. The 2'' barrel of the clicklock has a groove for better use with the brass strip the focusers use in order not to scratch any accessories placed in the focuser and it is a few mm away for the main body. When placed in the focuser drawtube and tightened it will always be out of alignment and this will affect the focuser alignment. This happens when i completely insert the clicklock so that it is flush at the drawtube, but if i move the clicklock outside just a tiny bit so that the thumbsrcews with the brass strip align with the groove then i have flexure at the focuser and bad centering. 2. The same thing applies for the Tak collimator which has a huge groove at the 2'' barrel that will not allow for flush placement of the collimator on the focuser. If i align the groove with the brass strip of the focuser then the collimator is not centered and tight in the drawtube. When using the tak collimator first i had to align the focuser with my HG laser then use the tak collimator for the secondary mirror in which i aligned the groove of the 2'' barrel with the brass strip of the drawtube. Finally i used my HG laser for primary collimation and the end result was a good collimation. This issue with the grooves was the main reason i stopped using the tak collimator since every time i used it i had different results, now i know what the issue is i will use an adapter for a flush 2'' barell and recheck the collimation using some 3d printed parts for use with a webcam and maybe i will purchase this adapter https://rafcamera.com/adapter-m90x1f-to-m36-4x1f The issue with my elongated star is that the secondary needs a little adjustment which i intend to do the following days on my vacation. The end result of this discussion is that for a reliable collimation of the scope is to first align the optics without the focuser and at the end align the focuser with the secondary mirror
  7. After many days of setbacks i got back on my rc 8 i redid the collimation with a tak collimation scope for the secondary and my howie glatter for the primary and went outside for my tests. I rechecked the distance with the ronchie eyepiece and this the result i have, i believe that the distance is correct now and pic show me at 1634.93 mm with a resolution of 0.681 arcsec/px I redid the collimation to the best of my power at the field and gave a shot to collimating my scope with the help of ccdinspector. The end result is not perfect but next time i will try to redo the collimation with the plastic card again since i didn't have any luck the last time. But i saw a big improvement at my guide stars since i use an oag and the stars are more round in the guider's FOV
  8. I have used a pi under high humidity (as many others on this forum), almost 100% within its case, on my scope and i didn't have overheating issues (the temperature of the pi was near 60C if memory sreves me right) nor any significant condensation. Granted, you will use it 24/7 i believe it may be of concern during the summer days (if the scope is directly under the sun) but then again you will not be using any applications that will need lots of processing power to overheat the pi, especially if you use it to record temp/humidity. Even if you place it (with its case) at a metal surface the heat disipation will be minimal at best. Whem it comes to placing it on the mount to protect the electronis, this will not affect the mount at all, we use these mounts under almost 100% humidity and i haven't read any post in any forum that the mount's electronics were fried from humidity nor that their operation was affected by humidity. Placing the pi near any mirrors in order to prevent any condensation will not affect them in the slightest, we have dew heaters that we place almost directly on the optics to prevent dew. On my ed80 i have a dew strap and i have covered it in a bandage in order to minimize heat loss in the air and it looks like it just came out of the hospital For comparison, i used a Mini pc (dimensions about 10cm x 3cm), a pi and now i use a nuc pc on my scopes and none of them was nowhere near in overheating and none of them had any significant condensation Personally if i wanted to record temperature/humidity 24/7 in order to monitor the status of the scope under the cover, i would use a seperate logger with a pi zero and have the data downloaded/transered in my house and use the pi for my imaging sessions and record at the pi the temperature/humidity while imaging
  9. Wouldn't it be better if you placed the hub,pi, power supply on top of the scope? You will save a lot of space, cables and they will be far better protected form the weather and any accidents with cable snagging when placed at the legs
  10. thanks for the comment, i will use metal and not 3d print them, they are only for sanity check of the dimensions. One idea that popped into mind. With this method we remove the focuser and collimate only the mirrors and at the end we align the focuser with the mirros in order not to have any errors the focuser may introduce. Would it be possible to use the howie glatter collimator in the place of the light source in this method and collimate the mirrors?
  11. Thanks for your reply nicolas. I made a design for 3d printing (in various formats)for sanity check of the dimensions you posted. I think i will have some adapters turned too since colimation is giviing a headache right now and the plastic ring didn't help at all. Maybe i am doing something wrong and i will try to follow your instructions colimation adapter obj.zip colimation adapter slt.stl colimation adapter svg.svg
  12. Hi Nicolas, Are there any blueprints for the adapter you made for thr collmation?
  13. After 8 months of owning the eq6-rand being disappointed as it performed like my old hypertuned heq5-pro i finally managed to get it to outperfom my heq5-pro. The main issue i have with it is that that the axes are too stiff maybe from excessive and not proper grease at the gears thus making it too hard to balance the mount. The other day i found a video on using a clamp-meter to measure the current of the mount and balance it . Needless to say that night the backlash of the mount was the smallest i had in months and the guiding error dropped to 0.3'' from 0.8'' that was the norm i had in good conditions. Here is the aforementioned video and some images form my calibration and guiding. One question though do you guys have lower Dec backlash than what i show here? Is that normal?
  14. Recently i bought the Falcon rotator from Pegasus astro and i do not have sufficient backfocus at my ed80 and i would like some advice. I have the old ED80 with the stock focuser which has a leght of 90mm, the drawtube extends at 17mm and i have a baader clicklock 36mm in length. My current imaging system has an astrotech flattener which has a lenght of 41mm along with the adapter that connects to the falcon rotator. The rotator along with the extension i have put, since the oag focuser ring is to wide, is at 47mm As you can see from the photos the total backfocus i need is about 88mm which the focuser cannot provide. I would like some opinions on how to find 71mm in order to focus my imaging system on the ed80. Is there a shorter focuser for the ed80? Maybe a combination of focuser and flattener?
  15. I would advise against it, you will add a lot more weight on the mount with the accesories and you will need a counterweiht to add on the scope in order to offset the primary mirror + camera thus stressing the mount. This is the main reason i got the eq6-r. Even though i modded my mount with the Rowan belt mod and i had really good pictures there were times that it was strainning. For reference at my scope i have the following thing attched to it Atik EFW2 and OAG Atik 383L+ SX Lodestar Pegasus Falcon Rotator (new purchase) Moonlite focuser with stepper motor focuser extension A nuc mini pc in order to control the setup along with a pegasus mini power box, pegasus focus cube Power supply box in order to stabilize and increase the power to 13.5V Usb hub An ADM Losmandy saddle and an ADM dual clamp in order to have a 1kg conterweight on the scope As you can see these add much more weight on the scope and the HEQ5 has hard time tracking, even on the EQ6-r i have an extra 5kg counterweight and a conterweight extension bar
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