jambouk
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Everything posted by jambouk
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Is the firmware the latest? Are any buttons getting stuck in the handset when you press them in?
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I asked a few weeks ago about charging two batteries from one solar panel. I’ve now got a solar controller which can do this, see below, but I’m confused by the instruction manual, especially how I should set the “charging priority”. I assumed the unit would charge battery 1 until full, then move on and charge battery 2 until full, then go back to 1. I’m not sure what this charging priority is - image of the relevant page from the manual below. I’d be grateful to hear what you think it means. Thanks. James.
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Should I put fuses where the green boxes are, or the purple boxes?
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Thanks, that is reassuring. Are you placing a fuse on the positive lead between the controller and the pair of batteries, or between the batteries and the thing they are powering? Or both? James
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I’ve since found the Amazon one on Ebay for £14.
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Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ECO-WORTHY-Controller-Auto-adaptive-Digital-Display/dp/B01B4AK9SM/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=Dual+Battery+Solar+Charge&qid=1578578415&sr=8-10
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Thanks. What is the capacity of each battery, and how long have you been using this set up with the same set of batteries? James
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The batteries will be kept in parallel all the time, and will be connected to the charging unit all the time, I'd envisaged even whilst under load, which will most likely be at night when the solar panels are not producing, but the batteries may also be put under load during the day time when the solar panels are active. One pair of batteries will power one thing, and the other pair power something else.
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Is the link suggesting this is just for batteries with capacity of 1-7 amp hours?
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If I have one solar panel, and four 12v batteries I need to be charged, two pairs of equal age and capacity (60 amp hour x 2, and 50 amp hour x 2) and the pairs have the same resting voltage and seemingly the same capacity, and I can get a solar charger unit which can charge two batteries (see link below), I was thinking of charging each pair in parallel. I've read about the risks of charging in parallel, with the weaker battery having the dominant impact and bringing the other battery down to its capacity, but in reality, how likely is this to be a problem in the course of 5 years, where the batteries won't be used that much anyway, maybe discharged 20%, just 10 times a year? I'm conscious there is scope to discuss lots of things around this, like "buy pairs of new batteries rather than starting out with old ones" and "buy larger capacity new batteries etc", but this is the set up we have and will be sticking with. Thanks for any replies. James https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solar-power-regulators/9054536?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Power_Supplies_And_Transformers-_-Renewable_Energy|Solar_Power_Regulators-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-391749164546&s_kwcid=AL!7457!3!243856857002!!!g!391749164546!&gclid=CjwKCAiAu9vwBRAEEiwAzvjq-zrEd9pZ-QRkhK-Tpfd6UJFYhRnC8sQOzas0oXPQXq3zr44tGo3_MhoC_XcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Thanks. The 24 page article is fascinating to read. Optically, it seems the differences are: - the EdgeHD is coma free as it has a lens inside the baffle tube - the EdgeHD delivers a flat field as it has a second lens inside the baffle tube - the EdgeHD may generate less vignetting as they have "placed the primary and secondary mirrors closer than they had been in the classic SCT, and designed new baffle tubes for both mirrors that allow a larger illuminated field of view." As you say, mechanically the differences are: - the mirror lock - ventilation ports as the baffle tube is now sealed with lenses inside. As I only really use the central part of the FoV for imaging, I can stick with the classic SCT, but can see the advantages of the EdgeHD for full frame deep sky stuff. James
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Thanks. That link doesn’t clearly explain the benefits over an XLT with a flatener but the 24 page PDF may do, and I’m planning on reading that tomorrow. Thanks for the link. James
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What makes the EdgeHD C11 £1,700 more than the XLT version aside the flat field? Is the field flatter than using an XLT with a field flattener which only costs £100? This is purely an academic question as I already own a standard C11 and was asked how much "better" the EdgeHD was, comapred to an XLT with a flattener. Thanks. James
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Keeping a deep-cycle battery healthy
jambouk replied to Edward Dewolf's topic in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
The more time the battery spends fully charged, the longer it will "last". I would certainly charge it up after use to get it fully charged, and then if you don't want to leave it on trickle charge, I would aim to put it back on charge for a few hours once a month. There is no evidence behind what I am saying. I would also store the battery in a garage so it is exposed to fewer swings in temperature. A discharged battery left in the cold is an unhappy battery. Equally you do not want it to get too warm. The modern intelligent trickle chargers do as said above, keep the battery constantly topped up, and undertake rejuvenation cycles to keep the sulphation at a minimum. I worked out once to leave a battery on trickle charge once fully charged was about 20p a month, £2.40 a year. If the battery is going to cost you £100, and leaving it on trickle charge for five years costs you £12 or so, I suspect at the end of the five year period, the battery will be pretty much as good as it was new, assuming you've not broken other battery rules. Else, if the battery has been left in a discharged state, and not topped up, you will have saved £12, but the battery won't be as good, and you may start thinking about buying a new one..., -
The one you've just linked to says it can run a CPAP machine, so even if you fall asleep and start snoring you'll be OK These kind of power tanks are OK if running a mount for a few hours, but if you want to reliably power a laptop, dew bands, DSLR and mount etc for 6 hours, then it won't be sufficient. Even if it is sufficient for a shorter period, you'll be deeply discharging the battery each time, and over time it won't thank you for that.. Convert all your devices current requirements into Watts. Then add these together and multiply for the number of hours you want to run for; if you are planning to go camping in a remote site and use the kit for more than one night on the same battery, don't forget to add in the hours on the subsequent nights too. Once you have a total value of Watts, decide if you want to use a conventional lead acid battery (in which case I would make sure your watts are not more than 20% of the capacity of the battery), or if using a deep cycle battery then I would look at getting one with capacity twice your Watts, so it doesn't get more than 50% discharged. I suspect you really need something with capacity of >100 amp hours if you really want to run all this stuff for 6 hours. In reality I get too cold and am either already too tired or end up too tired, and have work or life commitments to last more than 2 hours, unless imaging at home when I can run off the mains and get a little buzz off the mount when I touch it, which is always exciting. Never combine mains electricity and damp conditions. James
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Save up for a PoleMaster
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Flashing Power Light on Skywatcher AZ-EQ5
jambouk replied to johnturley's topic in Discussions - Mounts
The power tank is too small. You may get longer from it without the LED flashing if you can keep it away from the cold; keep it off the cold ground, keeping wind off it etc may help, but fundamentally it’s too small. -
I wrote a guide on using the Skywatcher Handset Polar Alignment routine in 2017; I don't think it has changed much since. Handset polar alignment[v1].pdf
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Grinding sound, if not usually present (in which case may be that something is too tight at one point or more in a rotation) is sometimes a power issue / balance problem. Make sure the power supply is not dipping and make sure everything is nicely balanced.
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I use a C11 on an AZEQ6 which is essentially the same as an EQ6 Pro. I only do planetary and lunar imaging and it is fine. I think if you wanted a rock steady mount for the c11 I’d go for something bigger. If you are happy to give it a go and see what results you get, I would say it is at least worth a try, it’s not a daft option. James
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One last try - some more data on mount error.
jambouk replied to Spacehead's topic in Discussions - Mounts
Looks to be a likely periodic error, which you’d expect. The thing which I’d worry about is balance throughout the whole imaging session. A 200mm reflector is a hefty and long scope and the standard EQ5 will struggle to offer a solid and reliable base for it. But crazier things have been done. Good luck. -
I’d look to physically reduce cone error; use aN illuminated reticle eyepiece; end with up / right or whatever is appropriate for your mount.
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The LightGrapher software worked a treat and several people asked about it. A very sucessful evening on transitsand occultations where we all learnt a great deal, and had fun. Amateur indoor astronomy at its best. James
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Thanks. What would be the minimum angular diameter a micrometer on a massive scope with excellent seeing could realistically measure then? I've converted your millionth of a degree into 3.6 milliarcseconds which is pretty amazing!
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I've been reading that lunar occultations of planets and other moons in our solar system was used in the 1960s and 1970s to measure the angular diameter of the moons of Saturn and Jupiter. But I wonder why not just use a micrometer?? Presumabely atmospheric seeing would impact on both methods equally, but using a micrometer would not require a lunar occultation event to be occuring. Grateful for any thoughts. James
