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jambouk

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Everything posted by jambouk

  1. Have you moved the clutch lever along a hole or two so you can actually fully tighten the clutch?
  2. There appears to be a book about him which appears to include copies of some of his artwork: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Astronaut-Who-Painted-Moon-Story/dp/1338259539/ref=asc_df_1338259539/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=256158169866&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5778488884943533748&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006965&hvtargid=pla-782162300074&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 James
  3. With equatorial mounts, using Polaris as n alignment star when star aligning for GOTO is not recommended as it doesn’t really help in the RA axis alignment. But when undertaking a star alignment for GOTO with a fork mounted scope (not on a wedge), is Polaris a good star to use or not? James
  4. Yes, I think this is the only option. Thanks. James
  5. This is not the delux model, but is it possible to modify the default GOTO rate to a slower slew speed to reduce the noise? Thanks. James
  6. Using SharpCap or a PoleMaster etc gives very tight polar alignments, but I do think it is important for people to learn how to polar align with a polar scope to understand the principles polar alignment and it also helps make you think more about the celestial sphere. James
  7. If your mount had useful setting circles you could have used the hour angle option, offered by the handset, but your mount unfortunately has useless setting circles so not worth explaining that procedure here. James
  8. So, if the handset says 08:22, you need to put Polaris at 08:22 (ish) on the circle, irrespective of the numbers or marks on the reticule. This awful drawing shows some of the near infinite position of the reticule and where Polaris should be position. James
  9. Yes, 08:22 will mean you need to put Polaris on the large circle of the polar scope reticule at that position, assuming 12 is at the top, 3 to the right, 6 down and 9 due left. The issue is the reticule in the polar scope won't be aligned correctly to use the markings on it, so you either have to align the reticule first (an utter ball-ache so don't bother), or just be creative about thinking where 08:22 is on the polar scope reticule. I'll try and draw some examples and post them. If you have Polaris roughly between where 8 and 9 should be, that will be sufficient polar alignment for visual and/or basic astrophotography. If you need your polar alignment tighter than this, then you need to be employing another method anyway in my opinion. James
  10. Even if you could make a wedge, the handset will still think it is an alt ax mount and I'd have throught will try and track things using both the altitude and azimuth axes and in doing so continue to give you field rotation AND not actually track your target. So I can't see how this would work using the handset. You'd have to some how take over the mount with other driving software. I'll be interested to hear what others say. James
  11. It won't matter if the mount isn't level. I was going to say "roughly level" will be good enough, but that isn't even true, you could have the one leg 10cm fully longer or shorter than the others and have the mount cockeyed, but as long as your polar alignment is good (and that will is achieved independently of how level or not your mount is) you'll be tracking fine. And if you are using GOTO then the star alignment process compensates for any wonkyness. So I would save yourself the hassle of trying to get this perfect. You'd be far better stripping the mount and cleaning the innards and greasing them nicely. James
  12. Yeah but who wants a 12" scope when you can afford 14" one James
  13. Exciting! Do let us know how it all goes and share some photos. The worry is it will make us all want one even more. If you can afford a brand new C14HD then I'm surprised the cost of the mount worries you lol James
  14. I communicated with FLO about putting a C14 on an AZEQ6 about two years ago and we agreed for planetary imaging it would be OK as lon as well balanced. I've yet to find a second hand C14 I can afford. James
  15. Ah ok, sorry.Have you asked someone like FLO if they can get the part from Synta? James
  16. Make sure you've been through this thread and message the key players to see if they have any info: James
  17. I'd not seen that before either; there are lots of old star maps out there, and as you say they cross from being simply useful in astronomy to being a unique form of art. As such, they then have multiple audiences and the second hand price of them goes skywards. James
  18. I've just seen someone on facebook post an image of their certificate of a star named after them, recognised by the Intergalctic Star Database... Hopefully very few people sign up for this and fund these rip off merchants.
  19. Absolutely wonderful reading! Thanks so much for sharing. You should definitely get the images and write ups re-produced in the current edition of the societies journal. Very mature write up for a teenage. A great mix of technical description and comedy (cold feet). It would be interesting to know how many of the objects listed in the write up are still easily observable from that site, to know how much influence light pollution has on observing these days. Really fascinating. Thanks. James
  20. So yes it can be done with this mount, but to honest this isn't an easy mount to do that with. If you want to use a mount in manual mode then I wouldn't plumb for this mount. If you want manual, I'd get an alt-az manual mount (then you don't have to learn about equatorial mounts). If you think you can master the night sky and equatorial mounts in one go (many have done) then get a manual equatorial mount. If you want to be able to use the mount as GOTO too, then I'd go for something like the EQ5 or above depending upon the weight of the scope you are using). Personally I don't see a problem with starting out with GOTO. My knowledge of the night sky is pretty poor, mostly because I spend so few nights outside, not because I have GOTO. When I do set up, I just want to look or image things, not spend all of my 2-4 hours navigating and star hopping, which may appeal to some, but doesn't appeal to me. Whatever you get, you will want to upgrade at some point. James
  21. Yes, you don't have to align the scope or use the GOTO, and you can just manually slew to where ever you want in the sky. Depending on what part of the set up you do though, it might not even track an object when you find one, so you might be continually making corrections to keep the object of your desires within the field of view (and depending on the focal length of the scope (and if you are using a Barlow and/or high power eye piece)) you may be making a lot of corrections - in which case, why not just buy an unpowered alt-ax mount? James
  22. Rob, If you are still in an astro club and they have a newsletter, they might well be interested in a short article about your set up and any observations you made there. These sort of articles make fascinating reading. Good luck digging around. James
  23. Looks amazing. As you say, a lovely thing for a teenager to have, and great that you and your dad worked on it together. Did you crack the jam jar away from the cement once it had set, or was the glass still under the paint? Clever idea. We forget, or rather take for granted now the ease with which we can get almost anything for the hobby now online. Do you have any sketches, photos or reports you took at the time? Or images of you with the kit? Lovely. James
  24. Not strictly astronomical, but the Nottingham Astronomical Society will have a stand at the forthcoming Geological Survey Open Day; see attached flyer. I've been to the BGS open day before and it is very good, amazing to see their rock collections and get a tour of their labs and storage facilities, and usually some interesting talks. James A4 openday poster_2015_v2.pdf
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