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SteveNickolls

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SteveNickolls last won the day on December 11 2018

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About SteveNickolls

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  1. Hi, don't know how you have your equipment set up but could it be your set up is too well balanced and at some point the load is acting with the RA instead of against it giving a toppling effect in some exposures? Cheers, Steve P.S. And this may be interesting to you- https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/610712-star-adventurer-double-star-problem/
  2. Hi, thanks for posting. I've recently purchased a Unihedron SQM-L meter and one of the things I want to do is record how the light levels change here over the months so hopefully I will be able to produce some figures in the future. Light levels are just one factor in 'sky quality'. I run my season for astronomy from June to the following May and here's a record of my observing and imaging work since 2012, you can see there's big fluctuations by month and between seasons with 2012-13 and 2016-17 being particularly poor seasons. Don't have data going back any further though for you. Total number of observing and Imaging sessions- And imaging opportunities since I began imaging- I'm old enough not to believe in global warming but accept climate has always been variable in the past. I'd like more clear, dark nights in which to image and observe but have to put up with whatever nature provides. Enjoy your hobby. Best Regards, Steve P.S. Whether the weather be fine, Or whether the weather be not, Whether the weather be cold, Or whether the weather be hot, We'll weather the weather Whatever the weather, Whether we like it or not!
  3. Thanks for posting, Astrometry.net gives the area as- And on the WorldWide Telescope site- Cheers, Steve
  4. 2 But the downside to ever increasing light frame exposures is a cloud or knocking the mount etc. can ruin a lot of time from an evening's work. Try it all out and make your mind up what you prefer to do. Cheers, Steve
  5. Hi John, I use my Samyang lens at f/2 with an Astronomik 12nm clip-in filter in the Canon 700D modified DSLR. I have two ways of creating flat frames (either shooting with a manual remote or using BYEOS). For both methods I use a clean, large matt white bethroom tile illuminated evenly and place the lens a 3"- 4" inches away from the tile and not affecting the illumination of the tile. With the Camera in Av setting I then take multiple RAW flat frames (x50) and thereafter use the master flat for subsequent stacking in DSS. If you get the histogram on the camera/BYEOS between a third and half way across the flats are fine to use. Hope this helps. Cheers, Steve
  6. Thanks for your update, I also help you recover from the 'flu as quickly as possible. Cheers, Steve
  7. I'd say no but why not try it and find out practically. You can get amazing results when you least expect too. Cheers, Steve
  8. Be guided by what you practically get. Last night there was a decent Moon shining so on a darker evening you would get the histogram more to the left as well. Cheers, Steve
  9. If your camera is usually located within 20m of an indoor location (kitchen etc. then I'd suggest using a program such as BYEOS and one of these quality active cables- https://www.lindy.co.uk/cables-adapters-c1/usb-c449/20m-usb-2-0-active-extension-cable-p510 You can then control imaging from the warmth of indoors with no worry over the laptop. Cheers, Steve
  10. Thanks, The Samyang lens is reviewed here-https://www.lenstip.com/index.html?test=obiektywu&test_ob=442 I can only add I have been extremely happy with mine which I always use at f/2 with a modified Canon 700D. I'm sure other SGL-ers with the lens will similarly vouch for it. The RedCat 51 has a lot of positive, desirable features but the speed of the optics (from my point of view) isn't one of them. If you bought the Samyang lens (it retails around £440 new) I don't think you would be disappointed. Cheers, Steve
  11. +1 to all that. However it's 51mm objective and f/4.9 optics light grasp pales against the Samyang 135mm f/2 lens. Apples and pears though. Cheers, Steve
  12. Thanks for posting. Any chance someone could video the programme of events to reach more hobbyists? It would make a good resource for the future. Good luck with the events. Cheers, Steve
  13. Quite agree, when I made the count on Saturday night I could see only 8 stars but my son who is in his early 30's could count 17 (that's not including the framing stars btw). Converting the readings off my new SQM-L meter showed the VLM at that time was just over Mag 5. We submitted both reports to the CPRE. Cheers, Steve
  14. I'd think the problem for a DSLR would be bringing it back into a warm atmosphere after a cold imaging session where dew would form on the cold body of the camera and potentially inside connections etc. I always replace the lens cap before bringing the camera inside and secure the rubber cover over the USB port. A few times recently ice has formed on the outside of the camera body (a Canon 700D) and I leave my camera in the colder kitchen covered with tea towels so that it can warm up more slowly than in the rest of the house. The following morning it has warmed up to ambient temperature and can be surfaced wiped and stored. I've only imaged with the laptop outside once and when I'd brought it inside I left it running on mains power for 15 minutes to ensure it had evaporated away any residual ice/water. Cheers, Steve
  15. Thanks for posting. With the telescope at 360 mm FL you are pushing the SA at its limits so a good attempt without guiding. If you used Start Tools for processing it has the ability to turn eggy stars into round stars if you needed that. Cheers, Steve
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