moriniboy

They work perfectly well without them, but I use one as it is supposed to make the granulation more pronounced (never tried a side by side so can't confirm this) A single polarising filter attached to the base of an ep will provide variable brightness to suit your eyes

Glad I don't have to buy from the US, looks like they are taking advantage at the moment approx £175 Lunt 1.25

220mm excluding original dovetail

If you are using the 36 in 1.25" mode with a 1.25" diagonal it could explain this?

1,250.00 Photo's are a testimony to the quality of this scope which is a real head turner and conversation piece. Any questions, please ask. Collection at a mutually agreed meeting point. PayPal plus fees or bank transfer please

Well it went for £34.60 and the 5mm went for £26, someone got a bargain.

The obvious answer seems to be a solar film cell on the front of the objective to keep the energy out of the tube, but the solar funnel may not work as well. The only other way is to limit the time spent looking at the sun to reduce the heat build up, but i'm sure you will have assessed this already. Will your mount be driven?

Thanks, missed that, at least rockystar is awake. PADAS facebook link

Sorry can't help you re make of dob as we bought it second had recently with no provenance apart from it having Oldham Optics mirrors. Must admit its been put together very well and with what looks like ptfe sliding blocks its very easy to track objects like the ISS.

2" is our preference currently, thanks

Thinking of a widefield ep for the PADAS dob. Televue Naglers are out due to Society budget constraints and we need to get a shroud as well. Thinking of a second hand ES 28mm 68 degree, any others come to mind?

Finishes on Thursday. eBay link Not mine by the way, you will have to pry mine from my cold dead fingers lol.

Ouch, feel your pain. I make sure I use the refractors that I keep in the shed with a solar Herschell wedge as often as possible, apparently the sun's uv kills fungus / spores and you get the added bonus of looking at sunspots. Some Baader wonder fluid should remove what is on the outside surface, fungus is known to etch the coatings so I would do it ASAP. If its on the internal lens surfaces this this is more problematic (read expensive) as professional re-collimation will be required after cleaning.

Came from this scope

Just whipped the 16" mirror out of the PADAS truss dob and on the back of the mirror is A.S. 2005. Anyone recognise the initials?