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  2. Orion from the mobile

    Very good considering the scope and just mobile phone used afocally. Well done!
  3. Which way round?

    I would think that the 600D will be the noisier of the two and probably have smaller pixels so would use that with the Samyang with its shorter f/l and faster f/ratio. Alan
  4. "GinaRep Mini" 3D Printer

    Something a bit wrong - the Duet is showing but it should be 10mm and Layer: 31 of 333. OTOH it's 73% done and has 20-30m left. Most of that will be the top 3 layers as it's already around 9mm high.
  5. Can anyone name this for me please.

    ... just a little bit more to add ... the reason the Subaru car company is so-called is that each star represents one of seven companies that Fuji Heavy Industries consolidated into one. Magnus (disclosure: I own a Subaru )
  6. Problems with Alnitak

    I thought I would do an example to show the sort of curve I used to adjust the image and keep Alnitak where it belongs with Gaz and Leccy (i.e. under control...) The images are: My original output from DSS, probably after a gentle 32-bit pre-stretch in DSS and gradient exterminator. The curve I applied The final image after just the curve and then movement of the black point. You can see the appearance of Alnitak has barely changed but the nebulosity has been brought out. I can't help thinking this is on the way to a much better result than my process in November - less is more! (I would stress that an advantage of this curves only approach is retaining the appearance of Alnitak';s binary companion).
  7. Platesolve2 command line

    Platesolve2 version 2.2.8 never failed me except you have to write the floats with a decimal point. Also the file name should not contain a comma. I think I also trim the vales from any leading space if I remember well. Can you give a example of a command line your adding to the PlateSolve2 execution command? p.s one weird thing is the reporting. If in Windows the decimal seperator is defined as a comma, the APM file reporting uses the komma seperator. Very difficult to decode since the values are also seperated by a comma. My stacking program ASTAP is free available to test my PlateSolve2 implementation including Pascal source. Han
  8. Can anyone name this for me please.

    Dear VNA, my post it was a copy paste from Wikipedia and i wrote in my post! (The sketch no). Sometimes happen ☺! Marios
  9. "GinaRep Mini" 3D Printer

    A couple of photos, nearly finished layer three and going on to layers with infill. Not sure "star" is the most economical infill pattern.
  10. D-Bot 3D Printer

    I've now removed the redundant front bar on the z carriage as it no longer carries any wheels. It doesnt seem to have had any effect on the stability or rigidity of the bed. I also printed some 4020 end caps to make the extrusion ends a bit more attractive
  11. How about here https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/making-every-photon-count-steve-richards.html
  12. Thanks Billy, I think I’ve set my mind on getting a 200p dob after all the helpful comments. I’ll keep in mind about the equatorial Mount. And will take note of the RACI finder.
  13. I think the XW 40 is probably the only eyepiece I would get to replace my 35 Pan. Very remote chance though!
  14. Hi Kerry, Thanks! That is a kind offer. Name your price, just not £141 like Amazon 😉 I'll PM you, thanks again! Chris
  15. Problems with Alnitak

    I'm impress Michael even though I don't really know what your talking about. Iam trying the ways to do that have been offered but have to say I am struggling, I either miss something or when I do something right i'm then not sure how i did it. Alan
  16. Overall I agree - learning your way around the sky is a rewarding activity in itself - but it can depend to some extent on sky quality. If you are not able to see the fainter stars needed for a star hop then it can get very frustrating, but if that drives you to look for darker skies it may be no bad thing. I find combining a red dot and RACI finder makes a big difference, as the RACI will pick up on the fainter stars and is also good for confirming you are in the right area in the event that you can't see your target through the eyepiece (all too common under light polluted skies). For your budget I would go for an unmotorised 200mm Dob, as most people have suggested - that's a lot of telescope for a very reasonable outlay. Some kind of tracking is very helpful for planetary observing and also if you enjoy sketching, but it can wait. If you're reasonably handy one option might be a DIY equatorial platform. These are relatively inexpensive to make and can add a lot to high magnification viewing. Billy.
  17. The Jewel Box Cluster - NGC4755

    Thanks for posting this great image. I have read of this many times and your image shows why it is such a popular object, must look wonderful in the eyepiece. Please continue to educate and entertain us northern dwellers.
  18. Hello I wanted to share some recent work of M45 from 1/8/2018 Here we have the Pleiades aka Messier 45, bathing amongst the very faint golden galactic cirrus which spans across the constellation of Taurus. The dust that you see here is actually not emitting light but rather reflecting. It is partially illuminated by the bright 7 stars within the Pleiades and additionally illuminated by our milky way galaxy. I am unclear of the distinction between IFN and galactic cirrus, Galactic cirrus seems to be closer to the core of the milky way. IFN and Galactic cirrus both actually appear in IRAS and Planck thermal dust surveys. Regarding molecular structure, I have read that IFN is comprised of Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons which are essentially leftover burned up carbon remains. The IFN reflects light predominantly at 540nm up through 950nm according to Mandel Wilson. Capturing Galactic cirrus and the bluish gray dust surrounding the pleiades requires very dark skies and deep integrations of data which must be carfeully processed. I am not 100% happy with this image yet and there may be a few more renditions, but I hope you enjoy what I have presented. Equipment and image capture: Cameras: Tandem Canon DSLR Full Spectrum modded T2i Unmodded T3i Lenses: Samyang 135mm F2 on each camera Filter: T2i only, Astronomik Clip Luminance L3 Light frames: 468 Exposures:30s Iso: 1600 Darks: 70 Flats:200 Bias: pre established master Seeing was 4/5 Transparency 5/5 Temp 25f SQM 21.6 Data was Fully Claibrated, stacked and registered in Pixinsight. Then partially processed between Pixinisght and Photoshop CC 2018 Messier 45 - 1/8/2018 by Wes Schwarz, on Flickr
  19. I have a copy that I would be happy to sell- at a sensible price, and post to you at whatever the postage rate is Kerry
  20. See the creativity in astrophotography comes in combining different filters to expose other colours and elements within a cluster of stars or a nebula. I think anything shot in the Hubble Palette is hauntingly beautiful - that cobalt blue amidst the rusty clouds reminds me of an old classic car that still has some life left in it. But shooting these subjects in different filters doesn't carry the same misleading feeling a 'Hollywood' artists conception does - it enhances them. A reason why I love astrophotography. So we know why they can look different in some images, but if artists are going to create images using the wrong colours it can throw off perception.
  21. This link might be of interest: https://www.nasa.gov/50th/50th_magazine/arts.html
  22. Yes, exactly. Looks very nice (mine is dull black). Price seems ok. Stephan
  23. "GinaRep Mini" 3D Printer

    Getting there, I think
  24. Sorry for the XW 40, I was stupid enough to trade mine months ago, thinking I could live without it, and I was wrong, I had to find one again... sorry sorry...
  25. Bino Viewer

    The binoviewers are foremostly distinguished by their prism size. Only the very expensive binos use 30mm prisms which allow the full aperture of 1.25" eyepieces. Buy cheaper and the prisms get cheaper and smaller meaning vignette of the eyepiece (not full width of view) I would buy a decent pair second hand to start off, see how you get on with them, upgrade to premium later if you find you use them a lot. Three things to learn about and get exact spec for: 1. Prism size (less than 28mm means vignetting) 2. Lightpath added by binoviewer (you need to get it all back to achieve focus in non-SCT scopes) 3. Connectivity to diagonal and other scopes (T2 is most flexible) best second hand options - Baader maxbrights (out of production, new model expected 2018) - William Optics (as have eyepieces and Barlow included) Premium options (30mm prism) - TeleVue Binoview (Nice but lack connectivity flexibility & not the shortest lightpath) - Baader MarkV (I own a pair of these, big prism, small lightpath, great connectivity = fantastic!) Both Baader units are the most flexible because they have T2 connections allowing direct connection to diagonals, scopes and other accessories. This is the key area to worry about as it determines if you can reach focus without barlow of glass path corrector. A T2 connection can save 10mm of light path and with refractors this is crucial. This link shows all the Baader options and parts... https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/index.php/language/en/manufacturers_id/5/filter_id/60/astro/Baader.html here is a link to T2 diagonals, you will need a 1.25 inch 30mm one or you get more lost light... https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/index.php/language/en/manufacturers_id/5/filter_id/9/astro/Baader.html First thing is to buy the binoviewer. You may or may not need accessories to make them work but this is best sorted after you get the binos. Now, the Celestron binoviewer... Spec says 22mm prisms so you will get vignetting on lower power EPs They are exact same as the William Optics according to this article https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/511998-review-binoviewers-zeiss-baader-william-optics-siebert-denkmeier/ The William optics version comes supplied with a pair of eyepieces and a Barlow second hand set http://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=132127 new https://www.firstlightoptics.com/misc/william-optics-binoviewer.html or wait for the new Baader Maxbrights. If you email teleskop-express then they will tell you what they know? They are great company, don't worry that they are in Germany, they speak good English and delivery is super quick What eyepieces to use? Your best bet is to test the binos with one eyepiece that you already own (using one eye), if all is well (comparable to when you remove the binos ) then buy a second one to match. It's an expensive job to buy pairs in one go. You also need eyepieces that are not too wide or your nose will not fit in between them! Again, some bino specs will quote IPD range (distance between your eyes). First job, is to see how much you use them then think about upgrades to premium lifetime binos and EPs... Alan
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